Looks like a timing belt and water pump job is in my future

[thegipper]

I've been having to add coolant every couple months to the reservoir, maybe an inch or two in the bottle.

I haven't noticed any white smoke (hard to tell in winter) but I do occasionally have a super minor "rough" start when cold which goes away in a couple seconds.

No CEL, no coolant in oil and no noticeable puddles on the ground (again hard to tell in winter).

Today I decided to do some more investigating because of another post about head gasket issues recently.

The first thing I noticed was my reservoir wasn't just a couple inches down, it was almost empty! WTF

I pulled the skid plates and started looking. I found what I think is coolant near the front of the oil pan (see below). I couldn't really see where it was coming from so I decided to pull the timing belt cover.

Well like an idiot, I pulled the hose off not thinking and got coolant all over the damn place. After I cleaned it up, I start looking with a flashlight and found crusty red coolant all around the water pump.

WP/timing belt are at least 110k miles old (timing belt for sure, don't know if WP was ever done).

I do have a coolant combustion tester (the blue dye style one) on order and should be here wednesday. I figure I might as well be damn sure it isn't the HG before I spend a bunch of money on a timing belt kit.

Plus it never hurts to have more gizmos in the garage.

Thoughts?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Looks original, consdiering the Toyota is stamped on it. Sadly it isn't the water pump that fails, at least for me, but instead it was the factory RTV mating said pump to the block.

Considering you have changed out a transmission, this should be cake. Not hard but can be time consuming. I'd replace both the came and crank seals considering their age.

 

[HiLife]

When I bought my rig at 213K I inspected and changed out just the timing belt as it was way over due with cracks. I didn't have the space and time to do the rest (wp. bearings, seal, etc) at the time. I did also noticed that my wp has dried crusty remnants of coolant along the bottom of the wp weep hole area, I have a feeling op didn't even change that part out.

I been having to fill the coolant reservoir about 2oz every 1000k. It's a very small leak. Other than that there are no other problems. Temps are normal and it runs great.

At 270k, I got all the parts now to do the job correctly now. I just gotta find the time to do it.

It's good also that you are testing for combustion gases in the coolant, good for piece of mind going forwards.

 

[thegipper]

I should also add it has never overheated or ever gone above operating temperature. I monitor coolant temps via my ultra gauge which has an alarm set for 215deg.

Cesar, I'll have to rewatch Tim's video and see what's all involved with those seals.

 

[thegipper]

Also, assuming the HG is fine and I need a kit, who has the hot link for a good kit on the cheap?

Thanks

 

[turbo8]

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-005-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYVXG

I used this, make sure you have a way to compress the hydraulic belt tensioner.

 

[ltsr]

Also, assuming the HG is fine and I need a kit, who has the hot link for a good kit on the cheap?

Thanks

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALL-OE...7-PIECE-KIT-/231029498024?hash=item35ca6e60a8

This is what I bought, I wanted to change all the seals along the way.

I also bought a brand new crank bolt, as they aren't supposed to be re-used but I know many have had success re-using them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUIN...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[AnotherCO4Runner]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALL-OE...7-PIECE-KIT-/231029498024?hash=item35ca6e60a8

This is what I bought, I wanted to change all the seals along the way.

I also bought a brand new crank bolt, as they aren't supposed to be re-used but I know many have had success re-using them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUIN...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I used the same kit and was very happy with the price and parts.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I should also add it has never overheated or ever gone above operating temperature. I monitor coolant temps via my ultra gauge which has an alarm set for 215deg.

Cesar, I'll have to rewatch Tim's video and see what's all involved with those seals.

If you do anything, make sure to grab the Lisle tool that removes the seals. Worth its weight in gold. Getting the cam bolt out to remove the cam spockets can be a challenge. Freezing the seals seems to shrink them just enough to make installing the new ones a breeze....:spy:

 

[nobb]

Looks original, consdiering the Toyota is stamped on it. Sadly it isn't the water pump that fails, at least for me, but instead it was the factory RTV mating said pump to the block.

There is no RTV on the OEM water pump. The OEM gasket is metal with rubber molded to it. It should peel right off when you replace the pump.

 

[LittleCaesar]

There is no RTV on the OEM water pump. The OEM gasket is metal with rubber molded to it. It should peel right off when you replace the pump.

I guess the workers at the Toyota plant where my engine was made in the summer/fall of 1998 rebelled and used RTV for my 99, because that is what was on my water pump when it was first pulled off the block in 2012.:wink2:

 

[thegipper]

If you do anything, make sure to grab the Lisle tool that removes the seals. Worth its weight in gold. Getting the cam bolt out to remove the cam spockets can be a challenge. Freezing the seals seems to shrink them just enough to make installing the new ones a breeze....:spy:

Got a link Cesar for the tool?

I'll probably grab a new crank bolt while I'm at it for good measure. I'll probably use the starter bump method. My HB pulley is a little messed up (the inner weight doughnut thingy came off many years ago that holds the bolts for the tool).

 

[thegipper]

Also, how likely are those seals to fail? If they aren't leaking, is it still mandatory to replace them?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Both my 99 and 00 had the metal gasket with the embossed silicone seal which is the way the new parts come also. I always thought that the paper gasket was aftermarket.

Also, that WP looks newer. My pumps, when removed, were definitely "older" looking than that one.

 

[thegipper]

It may not have been the "original" one but was replaced at 105k miles when the first and only timing belt was done.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Got a link Cesar for the tool?

I'll probably grab a new crank bolt while I'm at it for good measure. I'll probably use the starter bump method. My HB pulley is a little messed up (the inner weight doughnut thingy came off many years ago that holds the bolts for the tool).

I have seen it through Amazon and the like for about $15 though Wally World has it for $7 and change online. I'd tell you to change the seals all day, especially since if they leak down the road, getting to them just for a replacement won't be fun.
Lisle Corporation

Mine rolled out of the factory in 10/98. The original owners had my 4runner for 62,000 miles until the climate control went out. Cost them over $1100 at the stealerships of stealerships to replace with a new one. Then they sold the 4runner to me. No TB/H20 pump change by them. When I pulled off the pump in 2012, nothing but grey RTV.:biggrin2:

 

[TheDurk]

There is no RTV on the OEM water pump. The OEM gasket is metal with rubber molded to it. It should peel right off when you replace the pump.

The FACTORY OEM pump absolutely DOES have RTV and a channel in the flange with NO gasket. All 3G 4Runers were built that way, not just [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] 's.. Toyota modified the design of the OEM pump post-production in response to leakage problems and all REPLACEMENT OEM pumps now come with the metal/rubber gasket and a flat flange as of I think about 2007. This applies to both the Toyota branded and Aisin branded OEM pumps.

For a while, both types of OEM pump were on the market as stocks were run down and you had to be careful which you got.

If somebody pulled a pump with the gasket, it was NOT factory. Recognize that a LOT of the factory pumps were replaced early on for the obvious reason that they tended to leak at the flange. Mine had the RTV when I replaced it at 120k in 2011. I am original owner and ONLY wrench to touch this rig so I KNOW it was factory.

Just correcting the record. Carry on.

 

[TheDurk]

Got a link Cesar for the tool?

I'll probably grab a new crank bolt while I'm at it for good measure. I'll probably use the starter bump method. My HB pulley is a little messed up (the inner weight doughnut thingy came off many years ago that holds the bolts for the tool).

Dang. I think I'd get a new HB or a junkyard one, at least.

You can use the bump method to get it off, (I did) but you need a plan how to torque to spec getting it back on. Achieve legit 218 feet-lbs. or risk engine death. Chain wrench technique, maybe?

As far as parts, aircabinman has been the e-Bay seller of choice for years:

http://stores.ebay.com/AirCabinMan-Auto-Parts-Supplier/TOYOTA-TIMING-BELT-KITS-/_i.html?_nkw=3.4l&_fsub=1354856013&_sid=83274263&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

 

[thegipper]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

I actually have a donor vehicle (99 sr5) so the plan was to take the HB pulley from it and swap it in on mine otherwise it will definitely be a nightmare to torque the crank bolt to spec.

I've seen a bunch of kits for timing belts from the cheapy rock auto ones (150ish bucks) to the complete mega set on ebay which has every part needed all Toyota oem parts.

The thing is, I really don't need new V belts as I just replaced mine. I also just put in an OEM thermostat and gasket, so that can be reused.

I'm hoping I can find a kit with just:

1 Timing Belt
1 Idler Roller
1 Tensioner Roller
1 Front Crankshaft Seal
2 Front Camshaft Seals
1 Water Pump WPT-100
1 Water Pump Gasket
1 Hydraulic Tensioner

 

[TheDurk]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

I actually have a donor vehicle (99 sr5) so the plan was to take the HB pulley from it and swap it in on mine otherwise it will definitely be a nightmare to torque the crank bolt to spec.

I've seen a bunch of kits for timing belts from the cheapy rock auto ones (150ish bucks) to the complete mega set on ebay which has every part needed all Toyota oem parts.

The thing is, I really don't need new V belts as I just replaced mine. I also just put in an OEM thermostat and gasket, so that can be reused.

I'm hoping I can find a kit with just:

1 Timing Belt
1 Idler Roller
1 Tensioner Roller
1 Front Crankshaft Seal
2 Front Camshaft Seals
1 Water Pump WPT-100
1 Water Pump Gasket
1 Hydraulic Tensioner

Send a message to aircabinman on eBay. I believe he has been known to do a custom selection. Worth a shot, anyway. The tensioner is generally on the more complete kits so finding it offered as you ask may be a push.