Looks like a timing belt and water pump job is in my future

If I have to order the whole shabang, that's not the end of the world I guess. It's $282 bucks which is probably 120ish more than any other "decent" kit but I'm definitely thinking these components are probably better off being genuine Toyota parts.

I'll be ordering a new crank bolt separately. I already ordered the seal puller. Just need to figure out a way to hold the cam pulleys in place.
 
I used the Aisin kit TKT-005 and then just added parts that I needed. I think the kit at Rock Auto is going for $130. I would replace the tensioner, mine was maxed out. The seals weren't expensive at all. I also replaced the AC pulley while I was under there.
 
I can confirm, no HG leak. I tested it thoroughly with the kit and the liquid is still perfectly blue.

Looks like I need to order a TB kit.
30c3e25902538b7c77321cbdc68a13fb.jpg


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Timing belt kit ordered, I went with the Aisin kit (TKT-025) from Amazon. I also ordered a new crank bolt, both cam seals (OEM), crank seal (OEM), the lisle seal puller and a couple other small things.

I didn't need a new thermostat/gasket (both replaced 3 months ago, OEM), V belts are 6 months old.

I'll need to borrow/buy a 250 ft/lb torque wrench and a cam pulley holder still or figure something else out. A guy at work may have both that I can borrow.

I also need to pull the HB pulley from my 99 donor vehicle. My HB pulley on my 97 is missing the center doughnut weight thingy (literally just fell off) so I cannot use the tool to hold the pulley. My brother already made a tool up to hold the crank pulley but I cannot use it on my semi broken pulley. Once I swap in the good pulley from my donor vehicle, I can use the tool to install it on my 97.

Parts will be here on Saturday, so maybe Friday after work I'll start ripping it apart.

Normally I would have just bought the complete OEM kit from ebay and kept the spare parts but I found out last night my furnace shit the bed so 3 grand of my money magically vanished overnight....

When it rains, it pours I guess....
 
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[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]

Buddy, pal, amigo, dear friend. Would you happen to know the ID measurements for the two sleeves you used to drive in the cam and crank seals?

Again, I would normally just buy a whole damn kit but money is a little tight with my furnace blowing up. I can have work turn down some round tube to the size I need to drive in the seals.

Any help is appreciated.
 
thegipper said:
Timing belt kit ordered, I went with the Aisin kit (TKT-025) from Amazon. I also ordered a new crank bolt, both cam seals (OEM), crank seal (OEM), the lisle seal puller and a couple other small things.

I didn't need a new thermostat/gasket (both replaced 3 months ago, OEM), V belts are 6 months old.

I'll need to borrow/buy a 250 ft/lb torque wrench and a cam pulley holder still or figure something else out. A guy at work may have both that I can borrow.

I also need to pull the HB pulley from my 99 donor vehicle. My HB pulley on my 97 is missing the center doughnut weight thingy (literally just fell off) so I cannot use the tool to hold the pulley. My brother already made a tool up to hold the crank pulley but I cannot use it on my semi broken pulley. Once I swap in the good pulley from my donor vehicle, I can use the tool to install it on my 97.

Parts will be here on Saturday, so maybe Friday after work I'll start ripping it apart.

Normally I would have just bought the complete OEM kit from ebay and kept the spare parts but I found out last night my furnace shit the bed so 3 grand of my money magically vanished overnight....

When it rains, it pours I guess....
Click to expand...

I would use the bump start method to get the old HB off, or to at least to get the bolt loose. You need a 16inch 1/2" breaker bar, an impact 19mm socket, and a piece of pipe, cut to fit, to slide over the breaker bar and rest against the driver's side frame rail.

To remove the balancer, go to Harbor Freight and buy the Pittsburgh puller set, #62620. $15 or so. My brother has used one for years with good success.

I'll see you your $3k furnace and raise you one for my $8k of roofing shingles.
 
LittleCaesar said:
I would use the bump start method to get the old HB off, or to at least to get the bolt loose. You need a 16inch 1/2" breaker bar, an impact 19mm socket, and a piece of pipe, cut to fit, to slide over the breaker bar and rest against the driver's side frame rail.

To remove the balancer, go to Harbor Freight and buy the Pittsburgh puller set, #62620. $15 or so. My brother has used one for years with good success.

I'll see you your $3k furnace and raise you one for my $8k of roofing shingles.
Click to expand...

A couple of points based on my recent experience doing this:

- I was able to loosen the crank bolt with my 18V Makita cordless impact - it's compact enough to fit, and has gobs of torque. If you have access to a similar tool, I'd go that route before resorting to the bump method.

- As for removing the crank gear, mine was rusted to the crank, and I had to resort to a puller (in Tim's video it came right off, I had no such luck). If you end up using a puller set, make sure it includes M6-1.0 bolts (I can't tell if the HF kit that LittleCaesar linked above includes these). I had a similar kit and found out that it did not include the M6 bolts, so I had to run to an OSH to round some up. See some details midway in this post: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856115-post12.html
 
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Leon, thanks for the tip. I actually ran to HF at lunch and got the set Cesar mentioned. I'll have to look if it has the bolts, if not, I may still have that size laying around.
 
Leon, I rewatched Tim's video and his crank pulley did not come off either. He had to use a puller similar to the one I just bought.

He also stated the correct bolt size was M8x1.25, FYI.
 
thegipper said:
Leon, I rewatched Tim's video and his crank pulley did not come off either. He had to use a puller similar to the one I just bought.

He also stated the correct bolt size was M8x1.25, FYI.
Click to expand...

Ugh, my bad Mike! I didn't mean the crank pulley, I meant the crank gear (as my picture in the post I linked shows):



That one did come off easily in Tim's video, but not on my motor. And that does use M6 bolts :). So I would still round them up in case your gear is like mine.

Sorry about the mixup, I revised my earlier post.
 
Makes sense, I'll grab some of those bolts too in case the gear gives me trouble (with my luck, it certainly will).
 
My buddy has a cam holding tool that he is going to let me borrow.

Hopefully [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] will be able to give me some measurements on the sleeve ID size that he used so I can fab some up. Only other thing I need is a 250 ft/lb torque wrench, I'll just rent one if need be. Mine only goes up to 150 ft/lbs.

If not, I'll figure something out.

Maybe someone else has the measurements? Or, if they used a socket to pound them in, what size to use.
 
thegipper said:
Maybe someone else has the measurements? Or, if they used a socket to pound them in, what size to use.
Click to expand...

I forget what size I used. But I'm a packrat and still have the old seals - let me look when I get home tonight, and I can tell you the diameter you'll need :).
 
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