Looks like a timing belt and water pump job is in my future

The rubber in the balancer acts as a dampener, you need it.

I have seen some on Fleabay last year for $70 that comes with a one year warranty. If it isn't chipped and rusted to hell and back, that would be the route I would pursue. It would probably outlast your 4runner.

Or ask Leon to find one out in sunny Cali, since he is adroit in being a junkyard picker....
 
I swear it grew legs and ran away!

Not to be a wise guy, but any chance it's still stuck to the block or the back of the pulley? Or did you actually see it fall off and run away?

Aftermarket options are, ATP, Dorman for about 160ish dollars.

Ebay has used OEM ones, not really liking that idea. They also have some new ones from who knows where for about 80 bucks.

Thoughts?

Honestly, I'm leaning towards just reusing mine since I know it works.

I'm with LittleCaesar, I think having an intact assembly (used or new) is a better approach.

I've never dealt with this place, but it does claim to have a lifetime warranty, for what it's worth, and only $70. https://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net/Toyota-Harmonic-Balancer-V6-3-4L-p/13408-62040.htm

Or ask Leon to find one out in sunny Cali, since he is adroit in being a junkyard picker....

I have to admit that the thought has crossed my mind :). Or if Mike needs an extra cam seal :).

Interestingly, all the yards here have the 4Runner motors pretty quickly dismantled, so I mostly go for body/interior pieces.
 
I'm pretty sure the metal ring is just that, metal. I don't think there is any rubber inside of that part of the HB. There is rubber sandwiched in the pulley itself and that is still in tact.

The other option would be to try a three jaw puller on my donor vehicles pulley. The other reason why I don't think that metal ring has anything to do with "balancing" and more to do with adding surface area for the bolts when using the special tool is because my donor vehicles after market pulley does not have that ring at all.

Here is the link to the pulley.

https://www.lceperformance.com/5VZ-Lightweight-Crankshaft-Pulley-p/1016101.htm
 
Good point, maybe you can just reuse your pulley, without the ring. At least as a start. Or maybe you can attach the ring to the rest of the pulley with a couple of bolts?

Any idea how the ring was attached to the pulley to begin with? Was it welded to it? I can't remember this part of the job, so I'm a little vague on how things stacked up.
 
On face value, it looks like it was spot welded on. I thought about putting bolts in it to keep the ring in place but I'd imagine it needs to be perfectly centered and would be out of balance.

Again, that center ring has been off for 3+ years now with no ill effects.
 
Another question, one of my cams slightly turned (1/4 turn). Instead of turning it back the 1/4, I turned it another 3/4 turns until it lined back up again (this is with the belt off).

Is that an issue or as long as the cam pulley timing marks are lined up, it doesn't matter if one cam made an additional rotation or not.

Thanks
 
Another question, one of my cams slightly turned (1/4 turn). Instead of turning it back the 1/4, I turned it another 3/4 turns until it lined back up again (this is with the belt off).

Is that an issue or as long as the cam pulley timing marks are lined up, it doesn't matter if one cam made an additional rotation or not.

Thanks

My first thought is that you're probably OK doing that, after all a full circle is a full circle, as long as the crank is disconnected from the cam.

But my second thought is why not rotate it back to where it came from, just in case? Maybe I'm just gun shy, coming from the world of Lexus VVT-i cams that are quite hairy in this regard, but I think maybe better safe than sorry?
 
I was afraid to turn it backwards.

Can anyone else confirm as long as the timing mark is lined back up, it doensn't matter how many times you turn the cam pulley?

I'm thinking it cant matter. As long as I returned the cam pulley back to the correct position (timing marks), it shouldn't matter how many times a single cam is rotated.
 
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I was afraid to turn it backwards.

Can anyone else confirm as long as the timing mark is lined back up, it doensn't matter how many times you turn the cam pulley?

I'm thinking it cant matter. As long as I returned the cam pulley back to the correct position (timing marks), it shouldn't matter how many times a single cam is rotated.

I tend to agree, on a simple motor like this. That would not be a good idea on a VVT-i motor, that's why I'm a bit hesitant.

I am not familiar enough with these engines to be sure that there is nothing goofy behind the scenes that is somehow indexed to both cam and crank position, e.g. oil pumps.. I don't think there is anything, I'm just saying I'm not sure that there isn't.

I'd rotate it backwards one turn and sleep better at night :).
 
360 degrees is 360 degrees. It's got to be. The cam will be in the exact same orientation when when turned 360.

I think it'll be fine but if I'm wrong, someone please correct me.

I'm as far as I can go without parts. Supposed to be delivered today but Amazon dropped the ball.

Both cam seals were definitely leaking.

Water pump base is cleaned real good. I have a little more cleaning to do but again, need parts to proceed.

Still haven't found the washer. I found a washer that fits good that looks very similar to the one I lost. Dealership can't get the washer until Wednesday? Wth

And my cam bolts were torqued to an ungodly amount! Bent my homemade tool!



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I noticed the water tube that goes over the thermostat has some major pitting. Looks like I'll need to see how the one on my donor vehicle looks.

It's always something....
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No harm turning the cams. I have even turned them counterclockwise (no more than an 1/8th) before with no ill affects but you would want to turn them clockwise if need be.

As many seals need to be replaced as old as these engines are.

If the HB works for you, then reinstall it.

Have you replaced the valve cover gaskets? There looks to be some wet oil up there.

Keep it rolling.
 
I have some pretty awesome news to report. I wen't back to work where I keep my donor runner to grab the water tube since mine is all corroded.

Thankfully it is in great shape with no pitting.

Before I left I looked in the back seat to make sure I haven't left any tools or spare parts over the last few months. Well, to my pleasant surprise was the OEM crank pulley that the PO must have kept when he installed the aftermarket one.

Looks like I no longer need a new crank pulley!
 
I have some pretty awesome news to report. I wen't back to work where I keep my donor runner to grab the water tube since mine is all corroded.

Thankfully it is in great shape with no pitting.

Before I left I looked in the back seat to make sure I haven't left any tools or spare parts over the last few months. Well, to my pleasant surprise was the OEM crank pulley that the PO must have kept when he installed the aftermarket one.

Looks like I no longer need a new crank pulley!

Beautiful. :thumb::dancin:
 
I have some pretty awesome news to report. I wen't back to work where I keep my donor runner to grab the water tube since mine is all corroded.

Thankfully it is in great shape with no pitting.

Before I left I looked in the back seat to make sure I haven't left any tools or spare parts over the last few months. Well, to my pleasant surprise was the OEM crank pulley that the PO must have kept when he installed the aftermarket one.

Looks like I no longer need a new crank pulley!

Awesome! Now you just need to find that washer, or a replacement, and call it done!
 
Well, the job is done and as far as I can tell, everything is working like it should.

Putting the belt on was pretty easy. I did not install the tensioner until I got the belt on and it timed.

I checked the timing 4 times to be sure and it was dead on. Putting the rest of the stuff all back on was a piece of cake for the most part.

The back bolt on the tensioner is a ***** for sure.

Also, the power steering adjuster bolt is a PITA.

I drove it around, cheched for leaks and she's purring like a kitten. I'll keep an eye on it for awhile.

Thanks again for the help guys.

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Well, the job is done and as far as I can tell, everything is working like it should.

Putting the belt on was pretty easy. I did not install the tensioner until I got the belt on and it timed.

I checked the timing 4 times to be sure and it was dead on. Putting the rest of the stuff all back on was a piece of cake for the most part.

The back bolt on the tensioner is a ***** for sure.

Also, the power steering adjuster bolt is a PITA.

I drove it around, cheched for leaks and she's purring like a kitten. I'll keep an eye on it for awhile.

Thanks again for the help guys.

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Woohoo!! :first:
 
good reading this, this is my project in 3 weeks, ( about 500 miles) I have no issues or leaks right now, but 185k with original pump so doing it semi-preventative, but do have a bearing noise in the timing belt area..maybe a roller or something I hope, I'm also doing the the false water pump ac idler pulley and the fan clutch while its all out. Asin and Toyota parts. Also going to do the alternator brushes ( Toyota)
Original belt was done by P.O at the dealership and they only did the belt at 105k and no other parts on the receipt other than fluids
 

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