Losing coolant

Mine had no codes or symptoms, just coolant loss. Block test fluid turned green instantly. The bad spot on these gaskets is usually between cylinders 4 & 6, which is where mine was. Upon completion of the repair, threw a code for rear 02 sensor. Changed that out as well, good to go.
 
Okay lol. Just figured I would offer some help.

Well the car's just getting to the point where it'll need a HG no matter what at some point soon, so it's probably not worth doing a bunch of pre-emptive diagnostics versus just waiting for symptoms to become obvious and then getting the job done.

The procedure looks downright easy. Worst part of the job is gonna be the machine shop fees I think.
 
I checked my radiator level and it took 30 oz of water after like 2 weeks of driving. Woof.

Had a rave in the engine bay this morning.

hsvwah.jpg


Stared at this for a half hour. Seemed almost like a radiator leak. Ended up following it to the upper rad hose where there was just the tiniest spot of coolant. Looks like it was coming from there and then running down and then getting blasted everywhere by the fan.

Found the hose clamp to be quite loose. Hopefully that is all it was! I checked my other hose clamps and a couple were a bit loose also. They were tight when I installed them so I probably need to make it a habit to re-tighten new hose clamps after a month or two of heat cycles.
 
Are you using worm gear clamps or hose clamps? I will say from experience that using worm gears for the cooling system is a bad idea. I recently did my head gaskets (@zguy1 has a fantastic reference guide) and didn't have hose clamps for the tiny hoses at the throttle body; 15 minutes test drive later some coolant was leaking out.
 
You previously mentioned having to tighten clamps after heat cycles, which is why I asked if you're using proper hose clamps or what sounds like worm gears. If the latter, there's little point troubleshooting until you put the proper part in place.
 
I just came back from a 1200 mile trip. Before I left I made sure the radiator was full.

When I got back I had to add 2-3 quarts of coolant to get it back full. Trying to discern if its a head gasket or a leak. I'm going to add dye to the coolant, but what else should I check?

Hoses are new, thermostat is new, radiator is new, heater core is new. Water pump has around seven years on it.

No other symptoms.
If it was a leak you would think a 2-3 quart loss would be visible somewhere.
 
You are lucky.
Very lol. You should see my OTHER vehicle.

I actually support cats being sold on new cars I just don't agree with any sort of requirement for older vehicles. I'm not killing bambi keeping a car on the road that is old enough to drink.
 
2 or 3 quarts? That's a lot. You should be able to find it. Again, that's a lot, but water pumps can be tricky, leak, but never hit the ground. Also any hose on the back of the engine can cause seemingly invisible leaks. On a BMW decades ago I had to pressurize the system to find a tiny leak at the back of the head. Pressurize it if needed, but don't go over 15 PSI or so, you don't want to blow the radiator or the heater core.
I had one of those leaks that never hit the ground over 10 years ago. A Toyota shop foreman tried to tell me it was the intake manifold. It was the coolant transfer pipe or something like that and was only a $200/250 repair.
 
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Mine had no codes or symptoms, just coolant loss. Block test fluid turned green instantly. The bad spot on these gaskets is usually between cylinders 4 & 6, which is where mine was. Upon completion of the repair, threw a code for rear 02 sensor. Changed that out as well, good to go.
Just curious how much did it cost for repair? If or when mine goes wondering what cost would be now!
 
I'm budgeting 2k for the repair. I figure

$500 for the gasket kit
$800 at the machine shop
$700 for odds and ends. new water pump, idler pulleys etc that sort of thing
 

Just curious how much did it cost for repair? If or when mine goes wondering what cost would be now!
I had a lot of work done. In addition to the head gaskets, the radiator was leaking, I had both cv axles replaced, and new tires all on one repair order. I'm a parts counterman at a Toyota dealer, so employee rate for labor is $100 per hour. It was 22 hours for everything, plus parts and machine shop. While torn apart, we put in a new timing chain, water pump, spark plugs, thermostat, idlers, and various other parts. With the intake off, the knock sensor sub-harness was also replaced, since it was 22 years old and the intake was already out of the way. When all was said and done, right around $4k. She runs like a champ now, and has had no issues since the repair was completed in December of 2024. With the updated head gaskets now in place, I don't anticipate any issues of that nature in the future, at least not for another 200k miles. She was at 248k when the blown head gasket was discovered, and now she's at 264k and running beautifully.
 
I'm budgeting 2k for the repair. I figure

$500 for the gasket kit
$800 at the machine shop
$700 for odds and ends. new water pump, idler pulleys etc that sort of thing
If you are doing it yourself, that seems like a reasonable number. The odds and ends category is the true wildcard.
 
I had a lot of work done. In addition to the head gaskets, the radiator was leaking, I had both cv axles replaced, and new tires all on one repair order. I'm a parts counterman at a Toyota dealer, so employee rate for labor is $100 per hour. It was 22 hours for everything.
22 hours? Wow, that's a lot of time. Looks like a lot of work was done, but still, 22 hours is huge.
 

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