Lowe control arm replacement vs bushings

atalarico

atalarico

Senior Member
Lower control arm replacement vs bushings

Hey all,

I've been reading up a lot on the issue of whether to replace an entire LCA or replace the bushings. My bushings are shot in one of my LCA's and, after reading up on it here, I asked my mechanic if he could simply replace the bushings.

Here's his response:

"Yes it is possible to do bushings only but I have not found a shop in town yet that has the rite press for this job. I have customers that took their bushings to shops that said they could it but in the end thew payed even more when the shop could not do the job but wanted them to pay for trying. I just start with arms and bolts, one job done the first time."

Now, I think he's the most honest mechanic I've ever found that wasn't a personal friend. However, I am having a hard time believing that there's nowhere in Denver that has the right bushing press for the LCA of one of the most popular vehicles in the state, and that it would somehow cost more than replacing the LCA!?

Anyone have any insight on this?
 
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atalarico said:
Hey all,

I've been reading up a lot on the issue of whether to replace an entire LCA or replace the bushings. My bushings are shot in one of my LCA's and, after reading up on it here, I asked my mechanic if he could simply replace the bushings.

Here's his response:

"Yes it is possible to do bushings only but I have not found a shop in town yet that has the rite press for this job. I have customers that took their bushings to shops that said they could it but in the end thew payed even more when the shop could not do the job but wanted them to pay for trying. I just start with arms and bolts, one job done the first time."

Now, I think he's the most honest mechanic I've ever found that wasn't a personal friend. However, I am having a hard time believing that there's nowhere in Denver that has the right bushing press for the LCA of one of the most popular vehicles in the state, and that it would somehow cost more than replacing the LCA!?

Anyone have any insight on this?
Click to expand...

I just did went through this a few months ago. Several ways you can go. Replacing the entire LCA is the most expensive. I assume you either have bad rubber in the bushings or your cams are frozen in the internal sleeve. You'll need to replace the appropriate parts. I had a frozen cam. There's 2 parts to it (excluding the bolts) I only did one cam and sandblasted the others. Put some anti seize/super lube slurry in there.
I replaced just the bushings. Here's how I did it:

Obviously remove the LCA's. This is relatively easy if your cams are not frozen. You have to cut the sleeve otherwise with a sawzall.
Once you have the LCAs out, the best way to go is to get the inner part with the sleeve out. I had a press (which I had planned to use to get the bushings out of the arm- more on that in a second) I just pressed the inner parts out and was left with the outer sleeve with remnants of rubber in it. Some people burn it out, which would also work.
Now the fun part. I first tried pressing it out. Mine were rusted and fused inside the arm. I fought that f%^$#er for about 2 hours. Almost gave up. Then noticed at the end of each arm where the bushing goes is about a 1/4" hole. I put the arm in a vice, took a round drift pin punch an hammered through the hole and bent the sleeve inward a little. This gave me an idea. I might not have even had to do this because at this time I saw the gap between the sleeve and the arm. I took a larger round punch and large hammer, started beating it by using the edge of the round punch (bigger the better for more surface contact) right on the edge of the bushing sleeve. MAKE SURE TO BEAT ON THE SIDE WITHOUT THE LIP. It is not too thick and you can curl it down as it rips in half then curling down the two "sides" creating a bigger tear (and the curled in edges give you more surface area to strike with you punch) until eventually about half way down, it will just start to pop out. Took me about 10-15 minutes each bushings.

There are some other methods like using a bottle jack and a torch but mine just weren't budging. Also, cutting the sleeve in two places in close proximity with a sawzall, but I didn't want to accidently cut the LCA.

Tools needed: vice, BFH, large, round (1/2" wide punch) might be able to do it without a vice but it makes it a lot easier.

The new bushings go in real easy. Just take note of proper orientation. I used OEM, which cost about $40-45 a piece and one cam set (there are 4) minus the bolt. So the whole process would have taken me about 4 hours had I not sandblasted and painted the LCAs with that KBS Coatings stuff. Cost about $180 which is about the price of one LCA from Toyota. So, the decision is replace both LCAs and save about an hour or replace just the bushings and save about $180. Easy decision for me as I like fixing stuff. If you need part #s let me know. Good luck!
 
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Just ordered new lower control arm bushings and camber/caster bolts. Hopefully the install will go well. I thought about buying new arms but after reading on the forum i am certain it can be done without a complete swap of arms.
 
kindred4x said:
Just ordered new lower control arm bushings and camber/caster bolts. Hopefully the install will go well. I thought about buying new arms but after reading on the forum i am certain it can be done without a complete swap of arms.
Click to expand...


Woot
Good for you
Good luck
What bushings and cams did u go with moog
Its not that bad
Now is a great time to check and or replace your lbj's as well
I just dis this last weekend
3 hours start to finish
But i have done it before
If u don't know about the bottle jack and fire method for removing bushings
As it cuts the time down considerably

I cut them out the first time i did a set
But this set i used the torch and bottle jack and wow 5 minutes to do all four like a gentleman
U must use map gas as propane will not get it hot enough
https://vimeo.com/105444105
 
Brutalguyracing said:
Woot
Good for you
Good luck
What bushings and cams did u go with moog
Its not that bad
Now is a great time to check and or replace your lbj's as well
I just dis this last weekend
3 hours start to finish
But i have done it before
If u don't know about the bottle jack and fire method for removing bushings
As it cuts the time down considerably

I cut them out the first time i did a set
But this set i used the torch and bottle jack and wow 5 minutes to do all four like a gentleman
U must use map gas as propane will not get it hot enough
https://vimeo.com/105444105
Click to expand...

I decided on the moog bushings and greasable cam bolts and sleeves due to having seized parts. I did read about the bottle jack which is genius! I also have a 12 ton floor mounted press and a set of torches used for brazing A.C lines. If I can't get it with that arsenal than I am royally screwed!
 
Thanks for the input all. As much as I want to DIY this one, I just don't have the tools/time for it. I might justify it though depending on how much the mechanic quotes me. I need to finally buy a replacement floor jack, but the trick would be finding a bushing press in biking distance. Like I said, the mechanic is a really reasonable and honest guy, and other guys on various Taco/4runner forums, including T4R.org, go to him.

I suppose from a time perspective, I think he's telling me it will take more time to replace the bushings for him because of the lack of press, etc., and it would probably cheaper labor wise to swap the part out. That makes sense to me, I just am hoping he's thinking in the $200-300 range and not $400-500 range.

I am really hoping that the brake shimmying/overall steering squirrely-ness is cleaned up a bit after this. I've already replaced LBJ (DIY), inner and outer TRE (DIY), and the steering rack. Other than UCA and LCAs, it'll come down to the steering linkages that could be the culprits, but I've already ruled out the need for that tack weld fix in the steering column.

Cheers all!
 
I replaced my lca bushings earlier this year. Getting the old bushings out is the most difficult part assuming your adjustment bolts and sleeves aren't rusted and stuck in place. To get the old bushings out I used the factory bottle jack in between the arms it pushed them right out. Word of caution, do not put your face, hands, or anything you care about on the other side of the bushing you are pushing out because it will go flying, and at a very high rate of speed.
 
atalarico said:
Thanks for the input all. As much as I want to DIY this one, I just don't have the tools/time for it. I might justify it though depending on how much the mechanic quotes me. I need to finally buy a replacement floor jack, but the trick would be finding a bushing press in biking distance. Like I said, the mechanic is a really reasonable and honest guy, and other guys on various Taco/4runner forums, including T4R.org, go to him.



I suppose from a time perspective, I think he's telling me it will take more time to replace the bushings for him because of the lack of press, etc., and it would probably cheaper labor wise to swap the part out. That makes sense to me, I just am hoping he's thinking in the $200-300 range and not $400-500 range.



I am really hoping that the brake shimmying/overall steering squirrely-ness is cleaned up a bit after this. I've already replaced LBJ (DIY), inner and outer TRE (DIY), and the steering rack. Other than UCA and LCAs, it'll come down to the steering linkages that could be the culprits, but I've already ruled out the need for that tack weld fix in the steering column.



Cheers all!
Click to expand...


You do not need a special press to install the bushings
They go in about 80% by hand then you press them in with a bj press
Rented from any auto parts stores
 
i replaced mine about this time last year... dont replace the whole arm, just do the bushings... you can do it two ways, cut the bushing out with an air saw or sawzal, or you can burn them out and then drive out the sleeve. thats what i did, burned them out. i replaced my bushings with whiteline poly bushings and have loved it ever since.
 
Would replacing these bushings be a good thing to do while installing a lift? When I took the rig for an alignment the mechanic pointed out that one of my bushings where going out..
 
masphx said:
Would replacing these bushings be a good thing to do while installing a lift? When I took the rig for an alignment the mechanic pointed out that one of my bushings where going out..
Click to expand...

I would think so. Makes putting that bottom bolt for the coilover much easier, instead of having to do the "bottle jack method" or the like. When I did my LCA bushings I remember thinking I should have just disconnected the LBJT(the stud portion) form the control arm and just used a jack from underneath the LCA to lift the balljoint back into place after connecting the bottom coilover bolt.
 
thebrandon said:
I replaced my lca bushings earlier this year. Getting the old bushings out is the most difficult part assuming your adjustment bolts and sleeves aren't rusted and stuck in place. To get the old bushings out I used the factory bottle jack in between the arms it pushed them right out. Word of caution, do not put your face, hands, or anything you care about on the other side of the bushing you are pushing out because it will go flying, and at a very high rate of speed.
Click to expand...

Who sells them? Is there a poly kit like the steering rack bushings?
 
amalik said:
OP, did you talk to Kirk @ RTI? Call him and see what he quotes you.
Click to expand...

Hey, no it wasn't him. I don't really want to name names because I like this guy and I don't want to "shame" him or anything like that.

I'll give Kirk a call though and see what's up! What's RTI stand for?
 
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