Lower Ball Joint Preventative Maintenance

K

Koko4

New member
I've been reading horror stories about lower ball joint failure as well as the replacement procedure:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/149467-official-lower-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html

My 4Runner has 161k and to my knowledge, has never had the LBJ's changed. I'm going to use all OEM parts, but I wanted to be sure that I had the part numbers 100% correct before ordering:

Screen%20Shot%202015-02-26%20at%209.08.33%20PM_zpsmdoskptz.png~original


Left LBJ: 43340-39465
Right LBJ: 43330-39585
Mounting Bolts (x8): 90080-10066

I've compared two online parts sources, so you can see it's going to run about $210 total.

Torque Specs:
Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut: 112 ft/lbs
Tie Rod End Castle Nut: 67 ft/lbs
4 Mounting Bolts: 59 ft/lbs (and use blue LocTite)

Just wanted to be sure I had all the part numbers and wasn't overlooking anything in doing this. Have any of you experienced LBJ failure, or do you have a self-set maintenance / replace schedule for them?

I recently lifted my 4Runner with TRD / 5100's up front, and am sure this will put added stress on the entire ball joint. Better to spend $200 now rather than God-know-how-much later.

On a side-note, does anyone know of any alternate parts / methods to make this a fail-safe system from catastrophic failure? As in, an aftermarket solution to cause people not to have the separation? Seems like Toyota should have flipped the ball joint the other way, as they did on the newer models.

Oh well, seems like the LBJ and pink milkshakes are the two chinks in the otherwise very strong 4Runner armor.
 
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Koko4 said:
Just wanted to be sure I had all the part numbers and wasn't overlooking anything in doing this. Have any of you experienced LBJ failure, or do you have a self-set maintenance / replace schedule for them?


Oh well, seems like the LBJ and pink milkshakes are the two chinks in the otherwise very strong 4Runner armor.
Click to expand...

looks good to me, check the thread again i made, you might see a picture you recognize. thanks man. good luck to you!
 
shootmymime said:
looks good to me, check the thread again i made, you might see a picture you recognize. thanks man. good luck to you!
Click to expand...

Oh sweet - looks fantastic. I was originally a bit unsure because on the Toyota Dallas Parts page, it listed different options for 2wd / 4wd, but then I believe they're the same part #'s.

The only thing that sucks is I'm about to do a 3-week trip to Ohio, from Georgia, for work (starting Saturday), so I have NO way to replace the LBJ's before then. I'll be on pins and needles until I get back!! (I'll check for play, though before I go anyways).
 
One of my neighbors had a lbj failure a few weeks ago. I saw it loaded on a tow truck and was like thats weird I've never seen a broken down 4runner before, bet its a lbj. Drove by and the driver side wheel was folded under. Yep. Changed mine the next week lol.
 
I wonder how much of a concern they are in a pavement princess.

I'm reasonably certain my 2wd with 158k was well driven pretty easily over it's prior 155k mi. I jacked it up and did the pry bar test with no play whatsoever.

I know they're a weak spot, but i'll probably wait until I do some other work (tie rods or otherwise) before going to that extreme. Otherwise, I'll just check them diligently at every tire rotation. I drive pretty easily, and mostly hwy miles anyways.
 
Lower ball joints are bad, but I sure am glad that our frames aren't the same as on the tacomas.

Tacoma.jpg
 
I you haven't ordered yet check out camelback toyota parts. They offer free shipping over $150 so it should come out a little cheaper.
 
JBurt said:
Lower ball joints are bad, but I sure am glad that our frames aren't the same as on the tacomas.

Tacoma.jpg
Click to expand...

Unfortunately they aren't much better. I have seen some pretty knarly rust on 3rd gens. I own a 1996 4Runner, a 1996 Tacoma and had my first 1996 Tacoma bought back. IMO Toyota isn't backing the 3rd gen 4Runner frames like the 1st gen Tacomas because they would have to foot the bill by themselves. The Tacoma frames were made by Dana Corp. and they are footing a good chunk of the Tacoma extended warranty bill.
 
check out this thread, its what I used to do my ball joints 2 days ago, it's quite straightforward and has great pictures.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/103217-lower-ball-joint-removal-installation.html

I noticed the thread I linked you to has slightly different torque values. The torque values listed in that thread are what I used. also consider getting your outer tie rod ends, if your ball joints need to be replaced your tie rods could probably stand to be replaced also and you may end of tearing them up trying to get them off. Plus doing your ball joints means you need to get an alignment so you may as well do your tie rod ends anyway.
 
Koko4 said:
I've been reading horror stories about lower ball joint failure as well as the replacement procedure:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/149467-official-lower-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html

My 4Runner has 161k and to my knowledge, has never had the LBJ's changed. I'm going to use all OEM parts, but I wanted to be sure that I had the part numbers 100% correct before ordering:

Screen%20Shot%202015-02-26%20at%209.08.33%20PM_zpsmdoskptz.png~original


Left LBJ: 43340-39465
Right LBJ: 43330-39585
Mounting Bolts (x8): 90080-10066

I've compared two online parts sources, so you can see it's going to run about $210 total.

Torque Specs:
Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut: 112 ft/lbs
Tie Rod End Castle Nut: 67 ft/lbs
4 Mounting Bolts: 59 ft/lbs (and use blue LocTite)

Just wanted to be sure I had all the part numbers and wasn't overlooking anything in doing this. Have any of you experienced LBJ failure, or do you have a self-set maintenance / replace schedule for them?

I recently lifted my 4Runner with TRD / 5100's up front, and am sure this will put added stress on the entire ball joint. Better to spend $200 now rather than God-know-how-much later.

On a side-note, does anyone know of any alternate parts / methods to make this a fail-safe system from catastrophic failure? As in, an aftermarket solution to cause people not to have the separation? Seems like Toyota should have flipped the ball joint the other way, as they did on the newer models.

Oh well, seems like the LBJ and pink milkshakes are the two chinks in the otherwise very strong 4Runner armor.
Click to expand...

My 2001 LTD have 176k and I don't think the first owner ever changed the LBJ's too. Do those part numbers work for all of 3rd gen? I'll prolly get the same lol. Gotta spend those tax refunds somehow
 
sugjavier said:
My 2001 LTD have 176k and I don't think the first owner ever changed the LBJ's too. Do those part numbers work for all of 3rd gen? I'll prolly get the same lol. Gotta spend those tax refunds somehow
Click to expand...

About 2 years ago I was in your exact same position. I did it with OEM and yes they work for all 3rd gens
 
Since you will be doing half the work anyway, I would inspect your inner and outer tie rods (rack end if reading the FSM). If the outer tie rod drops under it own weight or you can push it in and out with some play the inners are bad. If the ball joint on the end of the outer tie rod has play (check while still connected to LBJ) or moves too easy replace as well.

Chances are if you don't replace you will have vibrations and steering wheel wobble by 200k+. Very common on these 4Runners. I am speaking from experience here, I did LBJ's but not inner tie rods (even though I knew they were going) and decided not to do it. Well now my steering is very wobbly and it's because my driver's side inner tie rod is toast. Learn from my mistake and if it needs replacing, just do it.

Also, you're most likely going to need to get your car aligned after the job is done.
 
gamefreakgc said:
Since you will be doing half the work anyway, I would inspect your inner and outer tie rods (rack end if reading the FSM). If the outer tie rod drops under it own weight or you can push it in and out with some play the inners are bad. If the ball joint on the end of the outer tie rod has play (check while still connected to LBJ) or moves too easy replace as well.

Chances are if you don't replace you will have vibrations and steering wheel wobble by 200k+. Very common on these 4Runners. I am speaking from experience here, I did LBJ's but not inner tie rods (even though I knew they were going) and decided not to do it. Well now my steering is very wobbly and it's because my driver's side inner tie rod is toast. Learn from my mistake and if it needs replacing, just do it.

Also, you're most likely going to need to get your car aligned after the job is done.
Click to expand...

Very good plan. Actually when I was getting it aligned after doing the lift (lifetime alignment plan at Firestone for ~$190.00) they mentioned that my left inner and outer tie rods were loose...at least that's all it mentions on the write-up. Funny that the right ones would be okay..

I am going OEM with the LBJ, of course, since it is a safety-critical part. But would I be okay getting the inner and outer tie rod ends from somewhere like NAPA? I know that they probably won't be AS good as OEM quality, BUT since I have the lifetime alignment..and they're not that bad to do, AND they won't kill me if they "fail catastrophically" at highway speeds...

Do I really need to stay OEM with the inner and outers, or could I use NAPA and be okay? If I'm going to do inners and outers on one side, might as well do them both while I'm there..

Or I could go AutoZone, for the Limited Lifetime warranty.

$29.99 / each outer tie rod end
$44.99 / each inner tie rod

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know what the part numbers for the ITE's are? I haven't been successful in finding them, even from parts websites. It's hard to decipher their parts "fiche" sometimes.
 
Koko4 said:
Very good plan. Actually when I was getting it aligned after doing the lift (lifetime alignment plan at Firestone for ~$190.00) they mentioned that my left inner and outer tie rods were loose...at least that's all it mentions on the write-up. Funny that the right ones would be okay..

I am going OEM with the LBJ, of course, since it is a safety-critical part. But would I be okay getting the inner and outer tie rod ends from somewhere like NAPA? I know that they probably won't be AS good as OEM quality, BUT since I have the lifetime alignment..and they're not that bad to do, AND they won't kill me if they "fail catastrophically" at highway speeds...

Do I really need to stay OEM with the inner and outers, or could I use NAPA and be okay? If I'm going to do inners and outers on one side, might as well do them both while I'm there..

Or I could go AutoZone, for the Limited Lifetime warranty.

$29.99 / each outer tie rod end
$44.99 / each inner tie rod

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I am putting AutoZone ones on as we speak. The are the "Three-five" brand made in Japan and look identical to the OEM ones I'm taking off.

I asked about the warranty and they have it stored in the system. No receipt needed, I just supply my phone number if they ever go bad and they will replace them for free. Had me sold at that point.

My left side was also worse than the right (hmm...), but both were bad. OTRE's are a bit old but have no play (pull up and down on the OTRE when it's all still connected) and are solid so I'm putting them back on.
 
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