Lower Ball Joint Preventative Maintenance

Lower ball joints are bad, but I sure am glad that our frames aren't the same as on the tacomas.

Tacoma.jpg

*Calls customer*
"Hi, uhm...there's no good way to put this, but your truck has broken in half....whats that? Yeah, completely in half, there's no hope for it."
 
I am putting AutoZone ones on as we speak. The are the "Three-five" brand made in Japan and look identical to the OEM ones I'm taking off.

I asked about the warranty and they have it stored in the system. No receipt needed, I just supply my phone number if they ever go bad and they will replace them for free. Had me sold at that point.

My left side was also worse than the right (hmm...), but both were bad. OTRE's are a bit old but have no play (pull up and down on the OTRE when it's all still connected) and are solid so I'm putting them back on.

Here's my 555 at about 10k. You cant see to good from the reflection but the ball is scratched to hell. Also that big ass groove in them seemed to make a nasty sticking point, they were extremely rough when I took them off. The other side had a similar groove so I dont think its a defect, a grease channel or something? I didnt trust them after the driver side boot torn after 8k so I replaced with oem. The one in the pic was the side with an intact boot btw.

20150227_201456_1.jpg
 
Here's my 555 at about 10k. You cant see to good from the reflection but the ball is scratched to hell. Also that big ass groove in them seemed to make a nasty sticking point, they were extremely rough when I took them off. The other side had a similar groove so I dont think its a defect, a grease channel or something? I didnt trust them after the driver side boot torn after 8k so I replaced with oem. The one in the pic was the side with an intact boot btw.

20150227_201456_1.jpg

This is the lower ball joint, right? I am going OEM for the LBJ for SURE (since it is a critical, catastrophic-failure-causing-part), but was wondering if it'd be suitable to go with AutoZone parts for the inner and outer tie rod ends (especially since they have Limited Lifetime warranties).
 
This is the lower ball joint, right? I am going OEM for the LBJ for SURE (since it is a critical, catastrophic-failure-causing-part), but was wondering if it'd be suitable to go with AutoZone parts for the inner and outer tie rod ends (especially since they have Limited Lifetime warranties).

Yes its the LBJ. I changed everything to OEM as preventative maint. Although my inner tie rods seemed fine when I took them off and they were aftermarket ones. The OEM inners are very expensive so you could save money there, but the OEM LBJs are only $91.
 
Since you will be doing half the work anyway, I would inspect your inner and outer tie rods (rack end if reading the FSM). If the outer tie rod drops under it own weight or you can push it in and out with some play the inners are bad. If the ball joint on the end of the outer tie rod has play (check while still connected to LBJ) or moves too easy replace as well.

Chances are if you don't replace you will have vibrations and steering wheel wobble by 200k+. Very common on these 4Runners. I am speaking from experience here, I did LBJ's but not inner tie rods (even though I knew they were going) and decided not to do it. Well now my steering is very wobbly and it's because my driver's side inner tie rod is toast. Learn from my mistake and if it needs replacing, just do it.

Also, you're most likely going to need to get your car aligned after the job is done.

Thanks to Google AdChoices I found this thread

I am putting AutoZone ones on as we speak. The are the "Three-five" brand made in Japan and look identical to the OEM ones I'm taking off..

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] how did this work out for you and the AutoZone tie rod ends?
 
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Thanks to Google AdChoices I found this thread



[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] how did this work out for you and the AutoZone tie rod ends?

Unknown. My steering rack started to leak soon after and I had a spinout on a rainy day (thanks to my awful tires at the time), hit a curb and broke the steering rack. Ordered a new one from Toyota with also comes with new inner tie rods.

EDIT: I did not replace the OTRE, just the inners. The boots were sound and had no play at all, plus prior to me the vehicle had rarely, if ever, gone off-road.
 
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Unknown. My steering rack started to leak soon after and I had a spinout on a rainy day (thanks to my awful tires at the time), hit a curb and broke the steering rack. Ordered a new one from Toyota with also comes with new inner tie rods.

EDIT: I did not replace the OTRE, just the inners. The boots were sound and had no play at all, plus prior to me the vehicle had rarely, if ever, gone off-road.

Understood, sorry to hear that.

If you had it to do over again, would you use non-OEM inner/outer tie rod ends?
 
What you mean, too close to OEM price to negate using OEM?

Last I looked inner tie rods are close to $125 each. Just doesn't make much sense to drop $250 on them when there's aftermarket ones for $25. Outers I think were closer to $70 each when I looked, a little more bearable. It's been a few years so the prices might have even gone up.
 
Last I looked inner tie rods are close to $125 each. Just doesn't make much sense to drop $250 on them when there's aftermarket ones for $25. Outers I think were closer to $70 each when I looked, a little more bearable. It's been a few years so the prices might have even gone up.

I'm confused, but that's nothing new

Price varies wildly depending on who you look at, and what "quality" or price point you look at

Napa has inners for $70 each (lifetime) and outers for $40 each (lifetime) for their Napa Pro Chassis brand, IIRC, which I believe is made by Federal Mogul

O'Reilly want from $33 ITRE and $34 OTRE for their Master Chassis Lifetime brand and up to $102 per ITRE and $117 ea per OTRE for their Rare Parts brand, also with limited lifetime warranty
-OEM is cheaper than this

In short, every parts store gas different stuff

I called a "suspension speciality shop" to inquire about these parts and was given a speech about MOOG being the best and making better parts than the factory, blah blah blah

I understand that not every factory makes all their own parts, they job/contract much of that out. Toyota for instance uses outside suppliers to make parts to their spec, and usually those contracts are very stringently written to prevent the jobber from just making more of the same parts and selling them on the side for less - but it happens.

No question LBJ should be Toyota OEM, but the question, at least for ITRE and OTRE, is: which aftermarket brand do you trust and why?
 
I just ran across all the LBJ issues which is funny since I've owned my '98 T4R since it was brand new, 240k miles ago.

I will be changing mine out this weekend. Are the tie rods something that is also crucial? I only ordered the ball joints but if I need to do them, I might as well do it all at once.

Thanks for all the info!
 
Where exactly does the LBJ fail?? Is this a issue only with rusty 4runners or all 4runners in general?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Where exactly does the LBJ fail?? Is this a issue only with rusty 4runners or all 4runners in general?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They snap in half and your truck falls on it's face. Not pretty, especially at highway speeds.

The recommendation I've seen is over 100k miles or so, just replace them for piece of mind. Lifting a vehicle can exacerbate the issue.

Check this thread for the gory pics...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67793-you-should-replace-your-ball-joints.html
 
More specifically- the ball pulls out of its socket. There isn't a piece that exactly "snaps in half", but the joint gets pulled apart.

Hmm I could swear I read someone said theirs snapped where the stud meets the ball.

The other two failures I've read about are:

Castle nut falls off -- preventable by properly torquing castle nut, installing the provided cotter pin, bending cotter pin to prevent it from backing out, periodically checking that cotter pin is in place.

4 bolts shear off -- preventable by properly torquing bolts (make sure threads are clean, tighten evenly in a pattern, and use a goddamn torque wrench), periodically checking bolt torque, replacing bolts on same interval as ball joints (most people recommend 60k-100k depending on amount of offroading and lift height/tire size)

I told my coworker I was replacing my LBJs as preventative maintenance. He said I was wasting my money by replacing good parts. He never replaced the LBJs on his 3rd gen that he sold at 280k (and had many off-road miles, he's an avid mountain biker). Lol
 
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No question the LBJ should be Toyota OEM, but the question, at least for ITRE and OTRE, is: which aftermarket brand do you trust and why?


I agree, certain parts like the LBJ should be OEM based on the recorded failures of other brands on our 3rd gens.

For all other suspension/steering ends and bushings I always go with MOOG. On all other vehicles (including Jeeps that I rockcrawl with) I also use MOOG ball joints and have never had any issues.

MOOG is what many shops use, is IMO the highest quality non-OEM part, and is reasonably priced from Rockauto.com
 
Just FYI, I recently did the LBJs on my 98 with 235K that I believe were original. Drivers had some vertical play when inspected per the FSM. It drives much better now and a thump I was hearing in the front end when hitting bumps is now gone. I truly believe I was lucky.
Anyway, I travel some on a specific route about once a month and had noticed a twin to my 4runner, white with platinum, 97 or 98 sitting in a driveway before Thanksgiving. I made the trip the day after Thanksgiving and noticed the same runner sitting facing the road in the driveway resting on its front tire under the drivers floor board, clearly missing its spindle and caliper. I finally stopped last week since it hasn't been moved and asked if they wanted to sell it. Turns out it is a two wheel drive so I am not too interested, but I did look to see what the failure was. Yep, LBJ broke clean. Looked kind of weird. Wished I had taken a picture of it. It was a smooth break where the ball joint should have been. Brake line was torn loose too. Front of the running board got bent and the fender was jacked up a little.
Do your ball joints if you have over 200K on them. This one had 227K.
 

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