Lower Ball Joint...wtf Toyota?

Vegas said:
I know you trying to get help to your problem and not knowing if this mod is going to cost you a lot out of pocket to repair sucks... but... Could you please explain how this happened? Where you use the fork type ball joint tool? Or the two hammer trick? Or the pitman puller?

I am planing on doing a lift next week and I have never done one before and I am trying to learn as much as I can to avoid breaking anything.


Thanks
Click to expand...

I am not the OP, but the way this happens is that people aren't aware that the two bolts below are used to detach the lower control arm from the hub assembly, and probably fork it.

Technically you don't need to do anything to the lower control arm other than detach the sway bars. I detached the upper control arm to get me the extra room I needed.
 
STX4Runner said:
Eddiebx, is that from the 5th gen factory service manual? On second look that control arm looks different. The ball joint is on the top. On the 5th gens the ball joint is on the bottom. Unless that diagram is of the control arm removed and flipped upside down.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is from the 2010 factory manual that Nashman was kind enough to upload here.

You can find the link to download the manual in the thread below:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92594-modifications-write-ups-quick-links-faqs.html
 
Try to just find the boot and replace it.

I watched a Power Block Episode a while back, not sure which show it was, HorsePower TV, or Trucks, or maybe Muscle Car, anyway they went through the process of replacing a ball joint on a factory control arm. It looked like a huge PITA.

They HAD TO use some serious tools like torches, air chisels, etc. to get it done. Sometimes on those shows they use specialized tools because it is easy, but a DIY guy in his garage could still get it done in another manner without them. I don't think replacing a ball joint in a control arm is going to be an easy garage job without a lot of serious tools.
 
^^^I agree. Fortunately, it's not the ball joint that is broken, just the dust cover. I tore it slightly while levering the control arm down with a pry bar under the control arm and on top of the ball joint bracket (the thing that is bolted to the spindle with two bolts). It's the thing Antman and sP8ball unscrewed to add the top plate spacer to sP8ball's 4Runner. I idiotically pinched the boot and it now has a small tear. Moral of the story, get a pry bar that is small enough to fit into the hole on the top of the lca and lever from that. Not the bracket, unless you are super careful not to tear the ball joint boot. I am about to call the dealer and see if they can just replace the boot. Wish me luck.
 
Mick1 said:
Try to just find the boot and replace it.

I watched a Power Block Episode a while back, not sure which show it was, HorsePower TV, or Trucks, or maybe Muscle Car, anyway they went through the process of replacing a ball joint on a factory control arm. It looked like a huge PITA.

They HAD TO use some serious tools like torches, air chisels, etc. to get it done. Sometimes on those shows they use specialized tools because it is easy, but a DIY guy in his garage could still get it done in another manner without them. I don't think replacing a ball joint in a control arm is going to be an easy garage job without a lot of serious tools.
Click to expand...

I replaced a riveted ball joint once and swore to never do it again. Lots of air chisel, grinding, and curse words were required.
 
Jeremy556 said:
I replaced a riveted ball joint once and swore to never do it again. Lots of air chisel, grinding, and curse words were required.
Click to expand...

I did that once too. Figured it cost me about double what a new assembly would have cost if I added the labor and pain and suffering together.
 
Pretty sure many autoparts places like OReilly's and Autozone sell replacement boots(dust covers). Might have to take your old one in there to match it up or worse case scenario is to buy another lower ball joint to use the boot as the design is pretty universal. They usually run $30-40 so cheaper then a new LCA.

I have my LR UCA's off and on my bench at the moment and the ball joint boot on it looks like a direct replacement for our lowers being 2" in diameter with a ring clip holding it on.

Energy Suspension sells them too but not sure of the size you need........... Energy Suspension Parts - Universal Tie Rod / Ball Joint Dust Boots
 
Last edited:
I hope this will help.
 

Attachments

  • Boots.jpg
    Boots.jpg
    104.9 KB · Views: 6,171
Thanks everyone for your help. Especially posters who posted the factory parts diagrams and eddiebx for confirming that the factory service manual says the boot is a replaceable part. Just got back from dropping it off at the dealership to have both boots replaced. At this point I just want to be done with it, so I don't mind buying the OEM boots from Toyota at $35 each. The thought of shrink wrap and zip ties on my truck is too much to bear, but I do appreciate everyone's input. I will post pictures of the truck with the lift when I get it back!
 
homeyclaus said:
I am not the OP, but the way this happens is that people aren't aware that the two bolts below are used to detach the lower control arm from the hub assembly, and probably fork it.

Technically you don't need to do anything to the lower control arm other than detach the sway bars. I detached the upper control arm to get me the extra room I needed.
Click to expand...

I had to remove the two bolts in order to get the spindle to drop low enough to have access to remove the shocks. Factory torque specs were 176lbs if I remember correctly, make sure you've got a big breaker bar.
 
Last edited:
More bad news. The idiot at the dealership just called and said they wouldn't replace the ball joint boot. To be clear I only need the boot replaced, not the ball joint itself. He claimed they wouldn't do it because it involved taking the "entire front end apart." ??? All you have to do is remove the wheel, undo the two bolts holding the lower ball joint attachement bracket and the castle nut. Right? I assume you them get a pittman arm puller or something similar and remove the bracket. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. What really makes me mad is they are saying they won't do it! WTF! You're a dealership with a service department and every tool needed to do the most complex jobs. They said I should go to an aftermarket shop. I may just do that. But I will never go back to this dealer if they refuse to help me.
 
Did You tell them they could charge you for something called "labor"?

What kind of dealer is this? What. A. Joke.
 
That is frustrating. Now that the dealer has confirm they have the balljoint covers for $35/each, buy them and take the truck to an indy shop that routinely does 4x4 suspension work.
 
Very Interested in the outcome of this. I also tore my driver side lower ball joint boot slightly lifting my truck. It was so minor I used a bit of black rtv sealant on it and called it a day. Fast forward ~4k miles and earlier this week I heard a "pop" from my driver side when reversing with the wheels turned and have this nagging feeling it's that ball joint failing (truck has 15k miles, fyi).


STX4Runner said:
More bad news. The idiot at the dealership just called and said they wouldn't replace the ball joint boot. To be clear I only need the boot replaced, not the ball joint itself. He claimed they wouldn't do it because it involved taking the "entire front end apart." ??? All you have to do is remove the wheel, undo the two bolts holding the lower ball joint attachement bracket and the castle nut. Right? I assume you them get a pittman arm puller or something similar and remove the bracket. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. What really makes me mad is they are saying they won't do it! WTF! You're a dealership with a service department and every tool needed to do the most complex jobs. They said I should go to an aftermarket shop. I may just do that. But I will never go back to this dealer if they refuse to help me.
Click to expand...
 
jnance50 said:
Very Interested in the outcome of this. I also tore my driver side lower ball joint boot slightly lifting my truck. It was so minor I used a bit of black rtv sealant on it and called it a day. Fast forward ~4k miles and earlier this week I heard a "pop" from my driver side when reversing with the wheels turned and have this nagging feeling it's that ball joint failing (truck has 15k miles, fyi).
Click to expand...

What type of mods are you running? It could just be normal suspension noises. Every once and a while you may just hear some funky sounds.
 
I called 4 Wheel Parts to see if they would do it. No dice. This is beyond stupid. Service guy called back and said the tech just didn't want to do it for some reason or another. Tried to throw some bs about it not being good for the ball joint. I'm like what? It's worse for the ball joint to be leaking grease you moron. Finally got them to agree to do it. After this, I am never going back to this dealer.
 
You should have just changed it yourself as it's not that hard at all. Especially since we have the repair manual with step by step procedure.

Just take the cotter pin and the nut off ,2 bolts holding it to the hub and use a ball joint separator(free to use from autozone or they cost like $10). $35 for a boot is ridiculous as that's about the going price for a whole new ball joint with the boot!

Here is a pic the cotter pin and nut ,also a pic of a ball joint separator and a unrelated top pic of the lower ball joint to see there is a removable C-clip and they can be pressed out to change them.Torques are 118 and 103 ft/lbs .

CopyofPicture045.jpg~original

Ball joint separator
ball-joint-tool.jpg~original

Top of ball joint showing c-clip
CopyofPicture052.jpg~original
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 570 (members: 1, guests: 569)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,113
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top