Lower Control Arm Replacements?
- Thread starter NJshadow93
- Start date
wkeryder4
New member
From the research I've done that's about the lowest you'll find OEM for. I saw them for $275 on another toyota parts site but after S&H it equaled out to about the same.
I purchased from oeparts on eBay. No tax and free shipping. $236
TOYOTA Lexus OEM GX470 4Runner FJ Front Left Lower Control Arm 48069-60010 | eBay
TOYOTA Lexus OEM GX470 4Runner FJ Front Left Lower Control Arm 48069-60010 | eBay
Dang good price!!
I purchased and installed both fronts in January. They are legit OEM and shipped fast.
BrowningNRA2
New member
LCA's
So glad I found this site, and so glad I joined. 4Runner family for life. I am also replacing lower arms due to poor alignment specs after axels and struts were replaced. After reading the entire thread, I am thinking about those Ebay OEM ones as Toyota wanted 400+ for each arm. I will then order the bolts, nuts, and washers from Toyota. Are the ones from Ebay listed above true OEM? I am a newby, how can you tell?
Thanks guys!
So glad I found this site, and so glad I joined. 4Runner family for life. I am also replacing lower arms due to poor alignment specs after axels and struts were replaced. After reading the entire thread, I am thinking about those Ebay OEM ones as Toyota wanted 400+ for each arm. I will then order the bolts, nuts, and washers from Toyota. Are the ones from Ebay listed above true OEM? I am a newby, how can you tell?
Thanks guys!
I ordered my lca at rock auto. Bought the beck/arnley one with the ball joint(greasable). Seems solid to me.
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BrowningNRA2
New member
Right on. I will take a look at those now. I drive A TON, how many miles have you gone on them? I am hoping my mechanic can salvage the current ones, and I can rebuild them as others have on this thread as a spare set.
I've been using it for a month now. I ended up cutting my OEM control arm and besides, it's rusted as well and not worth saving it. so far, i'm happy with it. by the way, I used the OEM control arm bolts which I think is the way to go.
I ended up doing the axle, lower control arm with balljoint and bushing, struts and spring, front differential seal, removing the rust and painting it. I scheduled it when I don't plan to use it for more than a week. removed my sway bar too but plan to reinstall it again at some point since it's not in a rush to do.
also, for your own safety, make sure to support the car on multiple areas. I was just looking at rockauto and can't find the beck/arnley today so I guess, you can use any brand that you feel comfortable with.
I ended up doing the axle, lower control arm with balljoint and bushing, struts and spring, front differential seal, removing the rust and painting it. I scheduled it when I don't plan to use it for more than a week. removed my sway bar too but plan to reinstall it again at some point since it's not in a rush to do.
also, for your own safety, make sure to support the car on multiple areas. I was just looking at rockauto and can't find the beck/arnley today so I guess, you can use any brand that you feel comfortable with.
Elan750
New member
One of the biggest mistakes people make when replacing LCA's is you should torque them when the vehicle is on the ground. Otherwise they will be "stressed" in their "rested state". This causes premature wear of the bushings. I think this is the cause for a number of aftermarket UCA failure complaints. No, I didnt say all...
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BrowningNRA2
New member
Funny you mention. I just did the same. All new Brakes, rotors, struts and springs, CV axels....and now the control arms. I am definitely going OEM on the bolts etc. Yeah I couldn't find the beck/arnley ones so I am most likely going to go with the A1 auto ones and see how much life I can get out of them.
I agree... torque it only when the car is on the ground. This way you are not twisting the rubber too much.
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BrowningNRA2
New member
Is there a kit out there that you guys have found that sells the OEM bolt, nut, and adjuster washer for the lower arms? I have a printed diagram from Toyota that has the part numbers, but am nervous I will not get everything I need.
NeutronJon
New member
Front bolt: 90119-14120 qty 2 @ 5.74 = 11.48
Front Cam: 48409-60020 qty 2 @ 14.04 = 28.08
Front Nut: 48452-35020 qty 2 @ 14.95 = 29.90
Rear bolt: 48190-60020 qty 2 @ 11.07 = 22.14
Rear Cam: 48198-60011 qty 2 @ 10.66 = 21.32
Rear Nut: 90179-14069 qty 2 @ 1.21 = 2.42
Hardware: Sub-Total: $115.34
I just ordered all this from partznet and a local shop is replacing my whole front suspension today. I don't have a lift and didn't feel like trying to cut the arms off on my sloped driveway. I ordered the 1A LCAs and did a dry fitting of all the hardware to make sure I had everything needed before I dropped it off.
The FSM pages refer the to front set as toe adjust and the rear set as camber adjust. The diagram on partznet was a little more generic.
Front Cam: 48409-60020 qty 2 @ 14.04 = 28.08
Front Nut: 48452-35020 qty 2 @ 14.95 = 29.90
Rear bolt: 48190-60020 qty 2 @ 11.07 = 22.14
Rear Cam: 48198-60011 qty 2 @ 10.66 = 21.32
Rear Nut: 90179-14069 qty 2 @ 1.21 = 2.42
Hardware: Sub-Total: $115.34
I just ordered all this from partznet and a local shop is replacing my whole front suspension today. I don't have a lift and didn't feel like trying to cut the arms off on my sloped driveway. I ordered the 1A LCAs and did a dry fitting of all the hardware to make sure I had everything needed before I dropped it off.
The FSM pages refer the to front set as toe adjust and the rear set as camber adjust. The diagram on partznet was a little more generic.
wkeryder4
New member
I found the parts that are most likely be to seize are:
PN: 48409-60020 Toe Adjuster (This is commonly what tends to seize)*
PN: 48190-60020 Cam Adjuster*
I was surprised to find that you can find both of these parts on Amazon actually and they are genuine OEM parts.
Everything else should be reusable. The cam adjuster is the rearward attachment and it is a single bolt that goes through the bushing with a plate on the back and then a nut. This came out easy on mine. The toe adjuster is the forward attachment, (this is what seized on mine). It is a sleeve going through the bushing and a long bolt going through that sleeve with a plate on the backside that has a threaded nut built in.
As far as a package I do not know. I tried putting together a cart with every part and it was close to $130 so I opted out of replacing everything and only went with what I knew needed to be replaced. When you take it apart you'll realize that the plates and nuts are really reusable, it's anything going through the bushings that you'll want to replace.
*Make sure you coat these parts in an anti-seize or similar substance
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BrowningNRA2
New member
You are a savior!! I have a couple of the nuts wrong so glad I double checked this post before purchasing. I am also having a local shop do mine next week, and I decided to go with the 1A Arms. I refuse to mess with it. Both arms are "seized" as the alignment shop stated. I'll let everyone know if that makes my steering wheel come back into center....and the clunking stop :heh:
BrowningNRA2
New member
The only difference in parts I got was the rear nut. It came back with this..... 90178-A0001
https://parts.conicellitoyotaofcons...069&p=catalog&mode=search&scat=&search_in=all
What do you think?
This is extremely important and worth bumping it every so often. You MUST torque all hardware after the vehicle is fully loaded on your suspension. The rear axle is easy as you can use jack stands under the axle housing. The fronts are a little tougher due to the jack stands not able to support the front suspension as easily as the rear. I put the wheels on then lower them on to drive up ramps. Not only is this safer but also allows you enough wiggle room to swing a torque wrench.
