Lower Control Arm Replacements?

Laying them right beside the OEM's there's no immediately discernible difference between the two. Bushings and ball joint passed the "looks good feels good" test. Steel thickness and arm shape is nearly identical, with the only noticeable exception being part number identification stampings. Fitment into the frame mount points was good. Fitment of the lower coilover mounting was good. Holes for attaching LCA skids (if you're running them) were all present and in the correct locations. Had no issues getting the truck back into it's previous alignment spec.

At this point, I wouldn't hesitate to get them again. If for some unknown reason they shit out tomorrow then my opinion will change, but I have no reason to expect that to happen.

Thank you. I will likely be grabbing a set because of your testimony.
 
Laying them right beside the OEM's there's no immediately discernible difference between the two. Bushings and ball joint passed the "looks good feels good" test. Steel thickness and arm shape is nearly identical, with the only noticeable exception being part number identification stampings. Fitment into the frame mount points was good. Fitment of the lower coilover mounting was good. Holes for attaching LCA skids (if you're running them) were all present and in the correct locations. Had no issues getting the truck back into it's previous alignment spec.

At this point, I wouldn't hesitate to get them again. If for some unknown reason they shit out tomorrow then my opinion will change, but I have no reason to expect that to happen.

are they really 160 for a pair? am I looking at what you bought? and your saying the quality seems at least unnoticeable from OEM?

2005 Toyota 4Runner Steering & Suspension System Parts | 2005 Toyota 4Runner Aftermarket Suspension & Steering Parts At 1A Auto
 
are they really 160 for a pair? am I looking at what you bought? and your saying the quality seems at least unnoticeable from OEM?

2005 Toyota 4Runner Steering & Suspension System Parts | 2005 Toyota 4Runner Aftermarket Suspension & Steering Parts At 1A Auto

Those are them. When I bought them I paid $158 plus shipping for the pair. I think the total was $172. Their prices seem to fluctuate slightly. Quality looked on par with the OEM LCA's that I yanked out.

I've only had them installed for a few thousand miles so far, and the extent of abuse that I've put them through has been limited to driving off curbs at 20+ mph and cruising over 15mph speed humps at 40+ to shake down the suspension I just installed. No issues thus far. If something comes up with them I'll surely post up about it but I have no expectation of that. I don't think I'm the only person on this forum running these particular LCA's either.

To be honest, there's really no good reason these days that parts like these LCA's should cost more than what 1A auto is charging. They're mass-produced stamped steel + casting weldments with a few pieces of also mass produced hardware attached. Not space shuttle parts.
 
I was thinking the same! Damn, may just take a chance on them for right now....when they come back in stock, that is.
EdmundGTP, do you have a pic of them side by side with the stockers?

I do not have a picture of them side by side with the OEM's. Though I believe there is another LCA thread on this forum where someone does have similar pics posted of the same LCA's.
 
I imagine like any other Bushings these 1A Auto LCA will seize? Do they come with greased bushings or zerks?

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I imagine like any other Bushings these 1A Auto LCA will seize? Do they come with greased bushings or zerks?

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It's not really the bushings themselves that seize, it's the cam bolts and adjusters getting seized to the bushing inner diameter. The factory Toyota ones come dry so if they were never turned for a few winters they can easily be corroded together as one. I think the best practice is a liberal application of antiseize and maybe repeat every couple of years if you are getting them wet and/or salty all the time. For the cost of an alignment you can avoid replacing these pains every couple years. This happens in other applications too, lots in dirtbikes/adventure bikes where the "just bought a xxxxx what do I need to do" thread says first thing to do - antiseize these bolts, and loctite these ones!
 
It's not really the bushings themselves that seize, it's the cam bolts and adjusters getting seized to the bushing inner diameter. The factory Toyota ones come dry so if they were never turned for a few winters they can easily be corroded together as one. I think the best practice is a liberal application of antiseize and maybe repeat every couple of years if you are getting them wet and/or salty all the time. For the cost of an alignment you can avoid replacing these pains every couple years. This happens in other applications too, lots in dirtbikes/adventure bikes where the "just bought a xxxxx what do I need to do" thread says first thing to do - antiseize these bolts, and loctite these ones!
So if I buy OEM bushings and new cam bolt then put some anti-seize on them I ought to be good to go?

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So if I buy OEM bushings and new cam bolt then put some anti-seize on them I ought to be good to go?

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:thumb3:

OEM bushings and OEM cam bolts with anti-seize are the best rebuild option available.

I tried to rebuild mine with Moog bushings and bolts and had issues. I ended up with aftermarket LCA's and OEM bolts and I'm happy now.
 
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I've had the 1AAuto LCA's on my 05 for at least 15k and my wife's 04 for around 5k. Both are holding up just fine, felt solid during inspection and installation, and appeared identical to OEM, minus the 10 years of rust obviously. I used aftermarket cam bolts on both vehicles and greased them up plenty prior to install.


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:thumb3:

OEM bushings and OEM cam bolts with anti-seize are the best rebuild option available.

I tried to rebuild mine with Moog bushings and bolts and had issues. I ended up with aftermarket LCA's and OEM bolts and I'm happy now.

Quickupdate; Ended up buying Toyota Factory OEM left side LCA and cambolts. I got away with all of it for ~250. My mechanic always lets me help around the shop so I got to help. We ended up using 4 sawzaw blades to cut the bushing out. It sucked. Cant imagine trying to get a bushing out of there without cutting it lol

Ended up putting some hi-temp grease in the bushing to (hopefully) prevent this in the future.
Thanks for all who helped!
 
I recently gutted some Tacoma LCAs and need to get them powder-coated before getting new balljoints and such.

How's the Whiteline Poly bushings holding up and what are you guys using for Balljoints? Heard Moog had less than desirable long term life.
 
I recently gutted some Tacoma LCAs and need to get them powder-coated before getting new balljoints and such.

How's the Whiteline Poly bushings holding up and what are you guys using for Balljoints? Heard Moog had less than desirable long term life.
For starters I just put some hi-temp grease in the bushing. Do you think this will suffice?

Thought about powder coating them but they do a pretty good job of not rusting unless you're aiming for a different color.

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:thumb3:

OEM bushings and OEM cam bolts with anti-seize are the best rebuild option available.

I tried to rebuild mine with Moog bushings and bolts and had issues. I ended up with aftermarket LCA's and OEM bolts and I'm happy now.


Definitely agree on the OEM hardware. I bought the Moog hardware but then got the factory pieces and it's night and day between the two sets of hardware.
My local shop price matched the pricing found on Partznet.com

Anti-seize will be helpful but it is designed to resist galling of metal on metal surface and works best on threads. It drys up overtime and may wash out of areas where there is no thread engagement. I'm doing mine this weekend and will use Anti-seize on the threads but a heavy grease on the sleeves and adjusters.
A heavy grease such as a marine grade waterproof type would work well on the bolt shafts and sleeves in the LCA. Cheaper grease would be fine for this application and I can't imagine you would need to purchase an expensive moly based grease if you don't already have it. Molybdenum is not necessary in this application but use whatever you have on the shelf.
Then after its together spray the shit out of it with a lanolin based lube like Fluid Film.

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I replaced my stock LCA with the Mevotech Supremes. I was happy with them at first, but after only 6,000 miles I think the bushings are already shot. I'm getting that same popping/thunking sound from the LCA area.

Not sure what I plan on doing now.
 
I replaced my stock LCA with the Mevotech Supremes. I was happy with them at first, but after only 6,000 miles I think the bushings are already shot. I'm getting that same popping/thunking sound from the LCA area.

Not sure what I plan on doing now.

Have you inspected your ucas, tie rods, and sway bar?
 
Have you inspected your ucas, tie rods, and sway bar?

Yes, working on a diagnosis. But given visual inspection, the LCA bushings already have too much give, causing that 'thud' sound. It seems like offroading has caused the play, but I'll keep ya'll posted on the outcome.
 

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