Lower Control Arm Replacements?

I battled my decision on this for a few months. My OEM arm's functioned fine without being worn out, but were really rusty an bothered my OCD. I waited an watched for the $250ish dollar OEM LCA deal's out there. Always missed them or they only offered one side.

So I finally read enough positive review's about the 1A auto arm's to give them a shot. Paid a whole $199 for all 4 arm's SHIPPED. They were mailed out an here in 3 days with standard shipping (free). All arm's look to be the same or better quality then OEM. The wall thickness on the LCA is actually slightly more then OEM. Nice finish, balljoint's look to be of good quality, nice hardware supplied, bushing's down to mold impression's are identical. Only concern I would have long term is the balljoint BOOT material. I have no reason to suspect them whatsoever, but the boot is all that was failing on my OEM stuff despite the rust.

Time will tell. I don't wheel my truck besides minor snow run's an gravel wood's roads when I shoot, so I have full confidence these will do the same job as OEM for 1/5 the price. I'm a firm believer in OEM parts for certain thing's, but with these, I really have nothing bad to say. I paid $0 to a machine shop, subsequent downtime, inconvenience, ect. Kind of hard to beat these for the money, even if they last HALF the time of OEM.
 
I battled my decision on this for a few months. My OEM arm's functioned fine without being worn out, but were really rusty an bothered my OCD. I waited an watched for the $250ish dollar OEM LCA deal's out there. Always missed them or they only offered one side.

So I finally read enough positive review's about the 1A auto arm's to give them a shot. Paid a whole $199 for all 4 arm's SHIPPED. They were mailed out an here in 3 days with standard shipping (free). All arm's look to be the same or better quality then OEM. The wall thickness on the LCA is actually slightly more then OEM. Nice finish, balljoint's look to be of good quality, nice hardware supplied, bushing's down to mold impression's are identical. Only concern I would have long term is the balljoint BOOT material. I have no reason to suspect them whatsoever, but the boot is all that was failing on my OEM stuff despite the rust.

Time will tell. I don't wheel my truck besides minor snow run's an gravel wood's roads when I shoot, so I have full confidence these will do the same job as OEM for 1/5 the price. I'm a firm believer in OEM parts for certain thing's, but with these, I really have nothing bad to say. I paid $0 to a machine shop, subsequent downtime, inconvenience, ect. Kind of hard to beat these for the money, even if they last HALF the time of OEM.


Do you have any pictures of these?
 
i replaced my LCA with the beck arnley brand. so far it is good. no complaints.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Just an FYI
I just replaced my lca's
These were factory arms rebuild with Moog bushings and cam bolts "greaseable"
Everyone says the bolts are junk
Well I put these in 4 years ago and have over 67k on them
I never greased them besides when I installed them
They slide right out and looked like new
No stripped bolts or adjusters
THE PROBLEM PEOPLE HAVE IS THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING WHEN WORKING ON OR ALINGING THEM
lossen the NUT and turn the bolt to adjust
Simple right....
On that note I just replaced the whole arms instead of rebuilding these again
I used some cheapies form rock Auto
Forget which but I will keep you posted....
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I've decided to try out the 1A auto LCA's. they have a package deal on ebay for $200 that includes the UCA's as well. How hard is the install? Is there a tutorial anywhere?
 
I've decided to try out the 1A auto LCA's. they have a package deal on ebay for $200 that includes the UCA's as well. How hard is the install? Is there a tutorial anywhere?
Jack vehicle
Take tire off
Either remove or cut the 2 lower cam bolts if siezed
Remove lower shock bolt
Remove 2 bolts that hold lca to spindle
Remove cotter pin from steering stop
Reverse procedure to reinstall
 
Jack vehicle
Take tire off
Either remove or cut the 2 lower cam bolts if siezed
Remove lower shock bolt
Remove 2 bolts that hold lca to spindle
Remove cotter pin from steering stop
Reverse procedure to reinstall
Appreciate the response. Do I need to use some spring compressors to keep them from unspringing?
 
Those cam bolts look OEM.
The Moog has a floating sleeve.

Just an FYI
I just replaced my lca's
These were factory arms rebuild with Moog bushings and cam bolts "greaseable"
Everyone says the bolts are junk
Well I put these in 4 years ago and have over 67k on them
I never greased them besides when I installed them
They slide right out and looked like new
No stripped bolts or adjusters
THE PROBLEM PEOPLE HAVE IS THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING WHEN WORKING ON OR ALINGING THEM
lossen the NUT and turn the bolt to adjust
Simple right....
On that note I just replaced the whole arms instead of rebuilding these again
I used some cheapies form rock Auto
Forget which but I will keep you posted....
View attachment 315756View attachment 315757
 
2.5 years and ~20K miles later mine (1A Auto) are holding up just fine, and they've seen some pretty abusive trails. No issues here at all.
You're lucky.
When my third set of non-OEM LCA's go, I'll finally bite the bullet to get OEM. Just over a year ~20k, 100% asphalt.

I battled my decision on this for a few months. My OEM arm's functioned fine without being worn out, but were really rusty an bothered my OCD. I waited an watched for the $250ish dollar OEM LCA deal's out there. Always missed them or they only offered one side.

So I finally read enough positive review's about the 1A auto arm's to give them a shot. Paid a whole $199 for all 4 arm's SHIPPED. They were mailed out an here in 3 days with standard shipping (free). All arm's look to be the same or better quality then OEM. The wall thickness on the LCA is actually slightly more then OEM. Nice finish, balljoint's look to be of good quality, nice hardware supplied, bushing's down to mold impression's are identical. Only concern I would have long term is the balljoint BOOT material. I have no reason to suspect them whatsoever, but the boot is all that was failing on my OEM stuff despite the rust.

Time will tell. I don't wheel my truck besides minor snow run's an gravel wood's roads when I shoot, so I have full confidence these will do the same job as OEM for 1/5 the price. I'm a firm believer in OEM parts for certain thing's, but with these, I really have nothing bad to say. I paid $0 to a machine shop, subsequent downtime, inconvenience, ect. Kind of hard to beat these for the money, even if they last HALF the time of OEM.


I will say I thought the build quality on each of the aftermarket actually felt superior.
 
I will say I thought the build quality on each of the aftermarket actually felt superior.

Are you saying at some point you had 1A auto arms fail? I hadn't found anyone who had bad experience with them.

If something sucks, I won't deny the fact. An so far, I have no reason to doubt them. I'm pretty gentle on stuff though, pavement an gravel roads compared to some people on here.
 
Can you clue me in? Did they recently raise prices, as they're showing 322/arm now. Would be great to save $50 if there's a way...

Mine were $289 plus shipping at McGeorge Toyota online parts. I have found them to be the lowest on everything and shipping isn't excessive. I think $55 for the two arms and all the bolts, adjuster cams, etc
 

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