Lower Control Arms - Cost

loarmistead

New member
Took the 4runner to the shop with the infamous "clunk" feeling in the floor while going over bumps. Expected to get a call about some worn bushings.

I'll say first off I do trust these guys. They've been taking care of our vehicles for a decade. Told him I was planning on a suspension lift and to keep that in mind when he looked it over.

Shop called and said, among other things:

1. Rust. Lots of rust (car used to be in Maryland)
2. Leaking right front axle. Left was replaced a few months ago with a torn boot. He said the boot is not the issue with the right axle - some other part was leaking - and recommended it be replaced.
3. Lower Control Arms - bushings are dry rotted and decaying. Recommended both LCAs be replaced ($$$). I asked him if only the bushings could be replaced and he said it was not advised.
4. There was another front end component that was worn and recommended for replacement (something used in tweaking the alignment, pardon my ignorance on suspension components).

He recommended all of these so that the upcoming 3" toytec boss lift would install, align, and perform smoothly with the added stress on the components.

All in all he was estimating close to $2k for everything. This shop has never been cheap but they charge what they do because they do good work and a lot of people use them, so no doubt the estimate includes a good sum for labor. No big deal - my days of busting knuckles and seized bolts on undercarriages are behind me, so money isn't the issue.

By far the single largest component of the laundry list was the LCAs. My question is, is his position correct that it is better to replace the entire assembly?
 
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If money isn't the issue, go ahead and replace it all at once. I'm a "rip the bandaid off" kinda guy so it just makes sense to me to save yourself the cash in paying to take it all apart again when they do fail. And they will, probably on the trail - when it sucks the most.


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yup.....do entire assy.......which will include new Ball joints.
It will probably be cheaper(or a wash) for you in long run because the labor associated with replacing the bushings and ball joints is probably going to equal the quick(er) swap of new LCAs.
 
3.
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market, for recyclers...less rust.

These guys are the cheapest I have seen, someone else here on T4R.org found these awhile back, I just tossed it in the 'favorites' for future reference.
https://www.1aauto.com/control-arm-with-ball-joint-front-pair/i/1asfk01969?f=847972&y=2004

4.
Alignment cam, they seize up and from the sounds of it, is extremely a pain in the ass to replace.


If your going 3" you may need UCA's to get back to OEM specs, or to get more castor.
 
That's exactly what I just did myself. Replaced everything. My bushings were seized to LCA and I could not align properly. So I purchased LCAs, UCAs, tie rod ends, new axles and replaced everything over the weekend. Chances are your bushings also seized and the only way to remove them is to cut the LCAs outs, no point to cheap out and try to replace bushings only
 
That's exactly what I just did myself. Replaced everything. My bushings were seized to LCA and I could not align properly. So I purchased LCAs, UCAs, tie rod ends, new axles and replaced everything over the weekend. Chances are your bushings also seized and the only way to remove them is to cut the LCAs outs, no point to cheap out and try to replace bushings only

I basically did the same thing over the course of a few months. Some on this forum thought I was crazy by using oem parts on the lower and upper control arms. Figured if the new set will last 200k miles like the old set than it is money well spent. Nice thing is that she drives like a new truck! Now onward to replacing the head gaskets.
 
Took the 4runner to the shop with the infamous "clunk" feeling in the floor while going over bumps. Expected to get a call about some worn bushings.

I'll say first off I do trust these guys. They've been taking care of our vehicles for a decade. Told him I was planning on a suspension lift and to keep that in mind when he looked it over.

Shop called and said, among other things:

1. Rust. Lots of rust (car used to be in Maryland)
2. Leaking right front axle. Left was replaced a few months ago with a torn boot. He said the boot is not the issue with the right axle - some other part was leaking - and recommended it be replaced.
3. Lower Control Arms - bushings are dry rotted and decaying. Recommended both LCAs be replaced ($$$). I asked him if only the bushings could be replaced and he said it was not advised.
4. There was another front end component that was worn and recommended for replacement (something used in tweaking the alignment, pardon my ignorance on suspension components).

He recommended all of these so that the upcoming 3" toytec boss lift would install, align, and perform smoothly with the added stress on the components.

All in all he was estimating close to $2k for everything. This shop has never been cheap but they charge what they do because they do good work and a lot of people use them, so no doubt the estimate includes a good sum for labor. No big deal - my days of busting knuckles and seized bolts on undercarriages are behind me, so money isn't the issue.

By far the single largest component of the laundry list was the LCAs. My question is, is his position correct that it is better to replace the entire assembly?

Make sure you get OEM Toyota alignment bolts. They're about $130.
Other manufacturers design and quality isn't even close to Toyota's IMO.
 
I basically did the same thing over the course of a few months. Some on this forum thought I was crazy by using oem parts on the lower and upper control arms. Figured if the new set will last 200k miles like the old set than it is money well spent. Nice thing is that she drives like a new truck! Now onward to replacing the head gaskets.

I went with SPC UCA's and LCAs with additional caster from Rockauto, if you don't have a lift OEM is great. With 3" Ultimate lift and larger tires OEM is a poor choice.
 
OEM LCA's with Bilstein 1 1/2" lift

I went with SPC UCA's and LCAs with additional caster from Rockauto, if you don't have a lift OEM is great. With 3" Ultimate lift and larger tires OEM is a poor choice.

I plan on installing Bilstein 5100 shocks and my LCA's need replaced. I'm going with 1 1/2" lift with the Bilsteins. Would OEM LCA's work for that height?
 
Make sure you get OEM Toyota alignment bolts. They're about $130.
Other manufacturers design and quality isn't even close to Toyota's IMO.

If it's helpful, here's the list of parts I used.

Lower Control Arm Right – 48068-60010
Lower Control Arm Left – 48069-60010
LCA Adjust Camber – Rear – 48190-60020
LCA camber Adjust Plate – Rear – 48198-60011
LCA Rear Nut – 90179-14069 or 90178-A0001
LCA Front Bolt – 90119-14120
LCA Toe Adjust – 48409-60020
LCA Plate Toe Adjust – 48452-35020
 
I plan on installing Bilstein 5100 shocks and my LCA's need replaced. I'm going with 1 1/2" lift with the Bilsteins. Would OEM LCA's work for that height?

You should be fine with OEM Lower and uppers at only 1.5 inch of lift.
Normally Uppers might be replaced with after market when pushing 3 inches.
I have a 3" Toytec Boss lift and use JBA uppers and have my original OEM Lowers still.
 
How do you guys verify if the ball joints are bad? My ball joint boots are torn and Im getting light thunks, and I plan on replacing my LCAs, but just wondering how to check.
 
Just replaced both bushings in both LCA's and LBJ with Moog parts. Had to cut the bolts/sleeves on every one.
New bushings and LBJ from amazon were $66 per side for all three.
New OEM cam bolt and sleeve were $41 per side.

They were a little tough but I did it all with full alignment for $316.
 
Does anyone have an online source they like for buying OEM LCA's?
Ebay, Amazon, and some online toyota parts stores (use parts.toyota.com to find specific dealers. Not all dealers are priced the same. I paid $300 each for mine)
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That's exactly what I just did myself. Replaced everything. My bushings were seized to LCA and I could not align properly. So I purchased LCAs, UCAs, tie rod ends, new axles and replaced everything over the weekend. Chances are your bushings also seized and the only way to remove them is to cut the LCAs outs, no point to cheap out and try to replace bushings only

This doesnt make sense. The bushings can be pressed out and replaced. LCA failure is rare, I would think. You will likely need to cut out the cam sleeves (like I just finished doing on my daughter's truck). but pressing the old bushings out and new ones in is fairly straightforward.
 
This doesnt make sense. The bushings can be pressed out and replaced. LCA failure is rare, I would think. You will likely need to cut out the cam sleeves (like I just finished doing on my daughter's truck). but pressing the old bushings out and new ones in is fairly straightforward.

Which replacement bushings did you use? I replaced my LCAs with 1A Auto but kept my OEM set. I'd like to rebuild them when the new ones are shot. Yes, I like to plan ahead.
 

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