ltb 92 t4r new mexico (not wtb thread)

[jgilk1]

looking to buy 92 t4r sr5 3l v6 218k mi. currently has a lift (idk what size) with bfg 33" all Terrain i am currently located in central new Mexico but planning to go back to Washington state in the next few months


power steering pump has gone out... i will most likly be going through moab on my way back to washignton... most likly wont be getting in any wheeling but hey never know...

so the power steering pump went out original owner say replaced it 10k miles ago seems a bit ahort of a life.. so this leads me to think shit parts used in the rebuild or the power steering pump needs some help...
Power steering cooler,
Larger reservoir (what options are available),
Steering stabalizer (single or dual)?
these 3 things should help cool things down but are there other things i ahould look at doing?

 

[Red88TopangaCa]

Does it leak fluid? Did you check the hoses?

 

[jgilk1]

personally i have yet to look at the vehicle and knowing it it 22 years old that was indeed on the top of my list of things to check/replace the current owner works odd hours...

 

[jgilk1]

ok so i did end up buying it... $1000 isn't a bad deal for a 22* year old rust free body at least and the 33 12.5 15's....

so instead of creating thread after thread for each little issue ill just use this thread when i have questions... (pictures will come later...)


biggest concern at the moment is the rear lift gate glass...

I can only assume that there are a few teeth missing from the motor or the actuator/regulator (i have not removed the access panel yet as the po broke off the rear set releases).

As when i hit the switch up front i can hear the motor turning but the window does not move up or down... i have a lot of mechanical ability but have never personally replaced a rear regulator/motor assembly....

what am i going to be getting my self in to and what can i expect? i am guessing that the assembly


(scratch the above)
stop 1 read manual

 

[willyt4r]

follow this thread

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/149432-rear-tailgate-glass-actuator-removal-help.html

 

[541joseph]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/149432-rear-tailgate-glass-actuator-removal-help.html

If it'll go up but not down it's most likely a sensor.

 

[jgilk1]

it wont go up or down but when i press the button to make it go up i can hear the motor turning and the actuator/regulator shuffles around a bit in the tail gate but it does not actually go up any at all (when i press down on the switch it does nothing at all)


i have replaced a window regulator and motor in a door just never in a hatch... but it does appear as though it is screwed in to place and not riveted so i don't have to pop any rivets to replace the regulator/actuator

 

[jgilk1]

i appologize for such a long post but i figured it best to post long and winded then explain again and again

ok so fixing the electrical issues is on hold for now... ie the hatch... finally put the truck through its paces (put 100 miles on it in the last 2 days)

ok break down 1992 t4r sr5 4wd (currently 2wd with a transfer case apparently the front drive shaft is missing) v6 auto...

here are the results... there are several issues following ~30 miles of driving first i will explain the conditions then what happened...

(i have a check engine light on i have yet to check te1-e1 jumper but i am guessing its a #25 guessing that the strong smell of petrol will be a good indication)

trucks starts and runs on the first flick of the key and based on the stock tach (ill explain more below) idles about 1500rpm (more like 1100-1200rpm will rev with out hesitation through the full rev range in neutral or in gear...

after warming up 10-15 minutes the engine kicks down and i won't say runs rough but its not butter and idles around 500-700 rpm based on the factory tach (i would say around 750-900rpm by ear) still maintains the same instantaneous rev range in neutral and in gear

After driving about 7-10 miles when stopping at a stop light the tach will drop down to 0 rpm but the engine (sound) seems to maintain that 750-900rpm tone...


after about 30 miles of driving a very very strong smell of unburned petrol starts to radiate from the vechicle and this is where the issues start...

I would consider the car going in to what bmw calls limp home mode rpm are first limited to about 4000 rpm once it hits 4000 rpm it sounds like a massive air leak through the exhaust and when stopping at a stop light the vehicle's some times stalls or hesitates wheezes and coughs then takes off (very very slowly) following this behavior the vehicle then limits rpm's to about 2000 rpm...

By this point i pull off the road park, shut the truck off and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes after this the truck goes back to normal for about 10 miles and the whole thing started again...

this time we were passing a best buy and idk about you but i can waste an hour in that store so we did hoping this would let the car cool down long enough to complete the last 20 miles of getting us home...

which it kind of did... on the way up to our house (elevation change of like 200' over like 3 miles) we got stopped by a red light (yeah i know a stop light in the middle of the desert who would have thought) but as i started off from the light the truck started accelerating surged then puttered out and died (embaressing i know)..

after the line of (30) cars passed and attempting to start the truck for like a minute i rolled it back on the shoulder (the whole truck smell like a gasoline can tipped over at this point) floored the gas pedal and cranked it over and over for what seemed like 2 minutes cleared the very rich situation in the motor and drover it the 3 miles back to the house...

i did have a hole in the lower radiator line and the line was replaced this morning before this 50 mile journey today (50 miles took 3 hours with all of this shenanigans)

i wouldn't think that that would have any effect on the motor running as it is (there was not normal air bubble surge though the temprature guage did not move really any at all durring the entire trip)

efi hates me and i epically hate obd1 but a motor swap is not currently an option in the budget at this point to go carberated ( i wanted a toyota and she wanted a suv the 4runner was the right price (cheap)

where should i start as "rich mixture" tells me nothing as i can smell the un burned gas from the exhaust pipe... (the cat is soon to come off and get gutted)

 

[jgilk1]

oh yeah btw the power steering fluid was so low it took a large size auto zone power steering fluid bottle and a small one in the 5 days that that it has been filled has not leaked

I guess now with the trip last night ~230 miles (the eventfull trips have been the ~50+ mile ones going the 6 miles to walmart have been uneventful)

 

[airdreams1]

Pretty sure you are suppose to use Dextron III ATF not power steering fluid.

 

[541joseph]

Pretty sure you are suppose to use Dextron III ATF not power steering fluid.

that is correct but there is almost no difference between the 2. so it wont hurt anything its just more expensive

 

[jgilk1]

I am well aware that the manual say to use Dextron III but i had power steering fluid sitting on the shelf and no point in going out to buy ATF fluid if you suspect the power steering system of leaking... i plan to install a much larger power steering cooler so the p/s fluid will be replaced...

i can deal with having/not having power steering... what i can't deal with is the stalling and limp home mode

 

[jgilk1]

apparently i didn't update this today like i thought i had...

crawled under the truck to replace the o2 sensor (i ordered it yesterday but failed to pick it up so ill do it tomorrow) and found that 3 out of 4 wires had been severed by the drive shaft... wired them back up and reset the computer after a ~20 mile drive the check engine light has come back on so will be doing a paper clip te1/e1 jumper and actually check the codes... (will also be replacing the o2 sensor after i can get it off)

as well i was going to pull the "cat" and gut it but apparently what i though was a cat is actually a cherry bomb glass pack, exhaust clamped to the original muffler which i removed... obviously the glass pack its self is a bit loud so i will probably be getting a ~40 series muffler to go behind it...

also found out while underneath the truck that the rear shocks were replaced with what looks like rancho rs5000 shocks (logo looks like there late 90's one) were improperly installed and the passenger side had pulled through mounting point in the chassis... hopefully it can be salvaged as the threads are still good but the nut is seized on the threads and some one took a set of "vice grips" to the top pin so it will be fun to re-install if i can salvage it

ill try and get some pictures of the exhaust and the shock tomorrow

 

[jgilk1]

time to tally repair costs.... hahaha

vehicle purchase $1000 (licensing and registration not included)

steering wheel donut (blinker and windshield) $75 + 1/2 tank of gas
used maf $75
used tow bar $50
new drop, ball, pin $35
2 trips to the pull and save $8 (+ full tank of gas)
rear tail lights cause the one on the truck were painted black $8/pair
center consul (for modification at a later time) $10
full tune up + brake pads ~$135
02 sensor purchased never installed $80 + tax (returning for other parts)
fuel pump $25 ebay special
uhaul universal trailer wiring kit $21
rubber made container + siphon pump (to drain and refuel full tank of gas) $15
used hood release cable (broke in the truck on the way home non returnable...)$25
knock sensor, and sensor wiring harness $31

comes out to ~$1600

things still need done... front ifs rebuild (ball joints, and tie rods and idler arm) as well front drive shaft, both cv's, bearing repack, where ever the power steering pump lines go to on the passenger side is leaking like 1oz/week (what ever is on the frame rail on the passenger side).... rotors are warped and need replaced (but i think the upper ball joints and outer tire rod ends have more to do with that i don't have the tool to remove the hub nuts and really not in the budget atm and not going to use the screw driver method)

pump used to siphon fuel will be returned and tap and drill bit to relocate knock sensor will be purchased so thats $6 back in out pockets lol

will continue to add to this list as i remember things and there prices lol

used cd player with aux in $40
$35 wire harness
1 rancho rs 5000 shock $65