Making the 12V hot all the time

[jicko]

not sure why everyone is so paranoid of running a frig 24/7? Might need a 2nd battery but with the ARB like I have, it will shut off before it drains the battery off of the 12v cigarette lighter plug in the back. It works great for my last road trip! Why would you need 15A on this dedicated circuit when the 12v works just fine?

Interesting, can you describe your system and your settings?

Mine won't run with HIGH or MED setting, I think it won't even run with the LOW setting. It will TRY to set the compressor, the power light will try to go from amber to green, then the red light will blink once or twice, and then power light go back to amber. The compressor will not run to bring the temp down, with the rear 12V (when the car is off, and with the factory battery).

 

[enkrypt3d]

Interesting, can you describe your system and your settings?

Mine won't run with HIGH or MED setting, I think it won't even run with the LOW setting. It will TRY to set the compressor, the power light will try to go from amber to green, then the red light will blink once or twice, and then power light go back to amber. The compressor will not run to bring the temp down, with the rear 12V (when the car is off, and with the factory battery).

wow really? i never had any issues with mine on a long road trip to big bear... but of course the 12v does not work when I shut off the car... the compressor worked just fine and even froze some of my food... do you have this issue in any other cars or using the inverter? if so then you might have to call ARB... good luck!

 

[Runamok]

Ok I've picked up a indel b 51 and mounted it to my sliding rear cargo tray with the mount sold by truckfridge. So far so good. Now I ordered the wiring kit from arb and have been scouring these posts for info on how to hook it up and run the wires etc for hours. I have a 2013 TE.

Anyone out there that can point me in the right direction?

Thx!

 

[A10MileHusker]

So I did the [MENTION=119516]jicko[/MENTION] mod with putting two add a circuits together.

Plugged them in the same spots he did and it made my radio constantly on. I tried other spots as well but nothing turned my 12v constant.

Anyone experience this?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[themuffinman619]

Ok I've picked up a indel b 51 and mounted it to my sliding rear cargo tray with the mount sold by truckfridge. So far so good. Now I ordered the wiring kit from arb and have been scouring these posts for info on how to hook it up and run the wires etc for hours. I have a 2013 TE.

Anyone out there that can point me in the right direction?

Thx!

I just picked up that same fridge. My plan is to replace the stock battery with a 27f agm and just run a separate plug to the back that’s constant.

 

[kootenai_11]

So I did the [MENTION=119516]jicko[/MENTION] mod with putting two add a circuits together.

Plugged them in the same spots he did and it made my radio constantly on. I tried other spots as well but nothing turned my 12v constant.

Anyone experience this?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I was looking for an always on 12v for my phone and tried this add a circuit as well, same problem - radio on but no 12v power. Anyone solve this on a 2018 yet? Don’t need a fridge just iPhone charging with ignition off.

 

[MikeYQM]

Same problem with the fuse tap - radio on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bumbo]

sounds like some folks are getting refrigerators that won't start the compressor on the 12v socket in the back of the truck-- the factory wiring doesn't have good enough instantaneous (startup) load capability. Also, they want the fridge to run when the vehicle is off-- those sockets are switched with vehicle power, so they've done mods to make them permanently on, but still had the current problem.

If these refrigerators have auto-shutoff (wow, smart, problems solved, who would figure they'd do that for an automotive application) that's pretty much a no-brainer for me, I'd just run cable from the battery up front all the way to the back and add a full time socket, all done.

Which ARB model do you have? *checks wallet*

I thought the internal low voltage disconnect was pretty common stuff... that said, if you are using your starter battery, 11.8 is still considered pretty dang low. You really don't want to exceed 50% DoD on a regular basis.

I use a BlueSea LVD set at 12.1 and that's a lot better cut-off point.

ARB Settings

 

[Bumbo]

[MENTION=117975]Doc_Fry[/MENTION] I agree with you. I am going the ARB Fridge route. Just cuz I can... LOL

[MENTION=121437]gunkl[/MENTION] The fact is.... I've received my ARB Fridge early this week. I've received my Odyssey 31M-PC2150 yesterday... and I am going camping this weekend

SOLUTION? I am just going to charge up my PC2150, and let it run for the weekend..... 100AH battery, it will power up my fridge for 48hrs without issue..... I will figure out a solution later..... optimal? Nah.... but.... I CAN....

By the way, I will be doing assorted fresh cut sashimi (I will be bringing my sashimi knife), ice-cold premium sake from japan, sitting by a camp fire, in the middle of no-where in Anza Borrego desert this weekend.....

Ill see your 77lb PC2150 and raise you a EV lithium battery that weights 28lb and last 4 days without issues =) At 50 lb less the wife can load it into the truck.

Either way, ill see you out there... Anza is pretty awesome, im also running the ARB and it's been one of the best camping accessories I ever bought. Ur gona love it.

Also, be nice to your AGM... lead battery don't like more than 50% depth of discharge. More than that on a regular basis and they start to not last as long. Consider 100Ah capacity, 50-60Ah usable.

 

[mrblah]

Not a good idea to hack into your existing wiring harness unless you have to.

 

[Bumbo]

Interesting, can you describe your system and your settings?

Mine won't run with HIGH or MED setting, I think it won't even run with the LOW setting. It will TRY to set the compressor, the power light will try to go from amber to green, then the red light will blink once or twice, and then power light go back to amber. The compressor will not run to bring the temp down, with the rear 12V (when the car is off, and with the factory battery).

Maybe I am misunderstanding you…. But you are not setting anything on the compressor… the High, Med, Low has to do with the low battery shut-off voltage. None of those settings will actually change the amount of power consumed during normal operation.

Assuming you are using the factory rear outlet… What you are probably experiencing is voltage drop when the alternator is not running… the voltage being lower, will require more current to start the compressor. That in turn will tax the tiny wires Toyota uses for those rear outlets. The inrush current demanded by the compressor at startup is sagging the voltage in the lines, not allowing it to get choochin.

Edit:
For those who have a hard time trying to understand voltage drop… It’s like your fridge is trying to suck down some Boba balls though a McDonalds straw…. You need to give it a bigger straw otherwise it’s gona have a bad time.