Manual Hub Conversion

mtbtim

Elite Member
Hey Dudes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. Special Guest [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] picked up some Manual Hub Knuckles from a 1st Gen Tacoma and I helped him renew the bearings and seals and install the rebuilt knuckles on this 3rd Gen.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TZ2sOfVrnhU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Can you give us info on the press sleeve kit? Brand/Manufacturer? Model #?



you can find that press sleeve kit in the description of this video:



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AVhSDnw2ugo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Fun to relive the adventure! Thanks again Tim!

jBAPCeC.jpg
 
So are there any consequences of having the hubs locked and driving in the highway? Because I'd hate to get stuck in water or mud. Then to only realize that I forgot to lock the hubs lol. But manual hubs are stronger aren't they ?
 
So are there any consequences of having the hubs locked and driving in the highway? Because I'd hate to get stuck in water or mud. Then to only realize that I forgot to lock the hubs lol. But manual hubs are stronger aren't they ?

I didn't see anything about the construction of the manual hubs that would lead me to believe they are stronger. The bearing, hub, and knuckle are pretty much the same with small differences.

You could drive with the hubs locked all the time but you'd then miss out on one of the main benefits and that's not having the CV axles turning all the time. It's less wear and tear on the axles and some have even reported a MPG savings.
 
That's a good video guys. Nicely done. This is one I would like to do someday.

Thanks for all the time you put into your videos.
 
So are there any consequences of having the hubs locked and driving in the highway?

It's the same situation as not having manual hubs. The only advantage of having manual lockouts is prevention of everything up front turning in 2WD, mainly the axleshaft CVs (and boots) at a higher angle than stock because of lifting the suspension.
 
Thanks for making these vids mtbtim. I find them very informative. I like to preview the vids so I can anticipate on how the procedure goes before I dive into the repair.
I too...one day would like to be installing manual hubs. I don't think they are stronger than not having them. I just like the idea of not having the cv shaft and front diff not turning when not in use.
 
The manual hubs don't offer increased strength. If anything there are more moving parts. There are a number of possible benefits:

- Slight reduction in drag, more important if you're lifted
- Ability to unlock is nice if you break a CV.
- If you install a front locker or limited slip then manual hubs are good to have. Having the front driveline spin all the time can be problematic with a limited slip
- When unlocked you can put the shifter in 4LO and be in 2LO (handy for steep driveways)
- If you want, you can remove the ADD system and put in a non-ADD axle shaft and tube. This is good if you have concerns about the ADD shaft being weak or the system being unreliable (FYI - I actually have a non-ADD axle tube & shaft that I probably won't use... PM me if anyone is interested in it)
 
Just a heads up, the manual hub cv's are actually weaker than add due to a smaller diameter shaft. Essentially going to manual hubs is not a stength mod but more convenience and wear and tear. As jziggy explained there are a lot of advantages for wheeling and lockers up front. It's not really worth it for a DD or non wheeler as you don't gain very much/if any mpg and as mentioned there are a lot more parts that can be damaged.

I had these on my 2000 and used the non-add spindles as I don't like add anyways. I didn't have any issues with my add acting up or with the add shaft. Was planning on doing it to my 99 but going a different direction, so if any Bay Area people are looking for a set of manual hubs, spindles and cvs let me know.
 
Manual Hub Swap Part 2 - A.D.D. Hub Bearing Replacement

Hey Dudes, [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION], [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made a Part 2 for the Manual Hub Swap. In this video, we swap over the Tacoma manual hub parts to the 4runner knuckles on my 98 4runner so I could retain ABS function.

Also in this video, you'll see how to do the presswork on A.D.D. knuckles if you'd just like to replace worn out wheel bearings.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1TpOYj0sUpA" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I know Timmay's got most of these part numbers already in the youtube video descriptions, but thought I'd add the complete list here along with a few more for those not able (such as me) to get complete used manual Tacoma knuckle assemblies:

Manual Hub Spindle: 43502-35160 (43502-04030?)
Outer Seal: 90312-95001
Inner Seal: 90316-69001
Snap Ring for bearing: 90521-99114
Bearing Nut: 43521-35010
Hub body gasket: 43422-60060
Hub cover gasket: 43531-60010
Wheel Bearings: 90369-54002
Manual CV Axles: 43430-04010
Manual Hub: 43508-35040

This image is from the Tacoma manual hub assembly. So, though the parts are interchangeable between the 4Runner and the Tacoma, they part numbers appear to be different.

Rs0UChB.png
 
Last edited:
I know Timmay's got most of these part numbers already in the youtube video descriptions, but thought I'd add the complete list here along with a few more for those not able (such as me) to get complete used manual Tacoma knuckle assemblies:

Manual Hub Spindle: 43502-35160 (43502-04030?)
Outer Seal: 90312-95001
Inner Seal: 90316-69001
Snap Ring for bearing: 90521-99114
Bearing Nut: 43521-35010
Hub body gasket: 43422-60060
Hub cover gasket: 43531-60010
Wheel Bearings: 90369-54002
Manual CV Axles: 43430-04010
Manual Hub: 43508-35040

This image is from the Tacoma manual hub assembly. So, though the parts are interchangeable between the 4Runner and the Tacoma, they part numbers appear to be different.

Rs0UChB.png


Thanks for adding those missing part numbers.

The goal should be to do this mod with the least expense but doing it right. Buying new hub spindles and CV axles is very expensive. Ideally you'll get the manual hub knuckles and CV axles from a 1st Gen Tacoma and possibly be able to just swap them onto your rig as is because they're in good shape and you don't have ABS or don't care if you delete ABS. This would be the most affordable option.

If you do want to retain ABS, then you need to perform press work on the Tacoma knuckles as well as the 4runner knuckles and replace the bearings, seals, snap rings, lock nuts and manual hub gaskets while you have everything apart. This job ran me around $800. $400 for the used knuckles and CV axles and another $400 for CV reboot kits, bearings and the rest of the parts I mentioned above.
 
I just wish I had the graveyard of 4Runner/Tacoma stuff that seems to be in California. Not that much up here in the PNW, at least that I've been able to find. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place :shrug:
 
[MENTION=116195]weekendclimber[/MENTION] or anyone else, I just picked up a 95 tacoma on Monday with manual hubs and I'm converting it to 2wd. If you'd be willing to find some 2wd spindles and ship them to me, and pay for shipping of my manual ones to you, I'd be willing to swap them out.

I just pulled the suspension off today though don't have any pictures on my computer, and the truck was in a wreck but at first blush the side that was hit is fine. I don't want 4wd spindles (hubs) either since that's already what I have and I don't want to run a CV stub if I can avoid it, plus it's not worth my time to package these and send them off in exchange for normal 4wd ones. Food for thought for anyone...
 
I just wish I had the graveyard of 4Runner/Tacoma stuff that seems to be in California. Not that much up here in the PNW, at least that I've been able to find. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place :shrug:

Car-part.com is your friend. I have 4 sets that I have shipped to Bend for $250 or less. Couple tips - the wrecking yards misclassify them all the time. All the 4x4 non-ADD should have manual hubs but don't believe them unless they have pics and you can see. The cheapest ones I have gotten are when they said the truck had ADD and you can see the manual hubs in the pic.

There is one with both spindles not too far from you. Maybe I will call them on Monday.
 
Last edited:
Hey Dudes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. Special Guest [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] picked up some Manual Hub Knuckles from a 1st Gen Tacoma and I helped him renew the bearings and seals and install the rebuilt knuckles on this 3rd Gen.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TZ2sOfVrnhU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] do you know what the tool @8:23 is and where I can buy one? Also, do you know what the ID/OD of that shaft @10:55 are? I'm going to try pressing my bearings in and out this weekend.
 
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] do you know what the tool @8:23 is and where I can buy one? Also, do you know what the ID/OD of that shaft @10:55 are? I'm going to try pressing my bearings in and out this weekend.

Check the video description for the link to the 4 pin tool to loosen and tighten the locknut. As for the inner diameter of that sleeve, I can look in my sleeve kit tomorrow and measure it for you if I still have it. 2 of my press sleeves were damaged recently (not by me) and I don't know if that was one of the ones that got tossed. If I forget to get back to you tomorrow, PM me.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top