Marvel mystery oil engine flush

[Traveler74]

Well we are here to help. Keep messing and let us know what changes you see or dont see.

Thank you, Ambush. I appreciate it. Half the time, when I'm working on the truck , I feel I'm in over my head, but I'm learning … SLOWLY !

I still have not located the grounding point for the alternator. I haven't the vaguest idea of where to look. OR is the alternator grounding point the engine block ???

 

[ambush]

Thank you, Ambush. I appreciate it. Half the time, when I'm working on the truck , I feel I'm in over my head, but I'm learning … SLOWLY !

I still have not located the grounding point for the alternator. I haven't the vaguest idea of where to look. OR is the alternator grounding point the engine block ???

Best place to ground alternator is to the BODY of the truck. Clean area of paint and locate it there. Check my pix as I have done the BIG 3 upgrade.

 

[Kanoe]

I still have not located the grounding point for the alternator. I haven't the vaguest idea of where to look. OR is the alternator grounding point the engine block ???

You've got it. The alternator grounds to the engine through it's mounting hardware. There is no special or separate ground on the alternator.

 

[Bad Luck]

I constantly run a quart of MMO at all times, put in about 4qt of Rotella T6 and 1qt of Marvel. According to Marvel themselves it should cut the 5w40 to roughly that of 5w30 in that amount (believe it also says so on the back of the bottle how to calculate it). My initial reason for doing so was to help clean out some cooked oil in my valvetrain and generally clean out the system, and it's worked pretty well for it but it did take a 1-2 full OCI's to see any change.
Some people also use Gumout Multi-System in the oil but I've yet to do so. I believe it's only something like 1oz per 1qt or something real minuscule so I haven't tried it in that sense, but it does make a great fuel cleaner so maybe worth a shot.

You're only using 5 quarts of oil? I'm surprised that's getting you to the full mark on the dipstick

 

[Devbot]

Yes sir believe I read it on here actually that it should be 5qts when I first bought the car. How come, what do you run/what's correct?

 

[Skulking]

Yes sir believe I read it on here actually that it should be 5qts when I first bought the car. How come, what do you run/what's correct?

For the 5VZ-FE per the manual for an oil change with no filter replacement it is 5.2 quarts and for an oil change with a filter replacement it is 5.5 quarts. Obviously the more important thing is that you are in the correct range on the dipstick, but those are the numbers that Toyota says should put you in that correct range.

 

[Devbot]

Oh, I thought we were talking a whole couple quarts or something. It could've been a tad over, can't really recall right now but I am gonna be due in the next month or two so I'll double check then

 

[2runnersnyynyg]

Are you getting codes? Check engine light?
I’ve seen failing injectors cause a stall once high idle goes down after start up. Would suck to have to do just after purchase but with nearly 200k can’t be ruled out.

 

[Traveler74]

Are you getting codes? Check engine light?
I’ve seen failing injectors cause a stall once high idle goes down after start up. Would suck to have to do just after purchase but with nearly 200k can’t be ruled out.

The oil low pressure light has gone out. No "check engine" light.

When I changed the oil, and filter, I needed 5 1/4 quarts.

At least temporarily the idle stalling problem has been cured. Had a semi-large hole on the underside of the flex air hose just prior to the throttle body.

I have no way to check for codes.

Last big problem is an engine noise which just started, AFTER I installed the new alternator. Will remove the belt and see if the noise stops.

 

[Devbot]

Any auto parts store will scan codes for free, but that being said I highly recommend picking up a $20-50 OBDII from Amazon or HF. An actual unit, not a little ELM transmitter that pairs with your phone. They pay for themselves within a few uses.
In regards to the noise, sounds like the belt isn't tensioned properly.

 

[Bad Luck]

Oh, I thought we were talking a whole couple quarts or something. It could've been a tad over, can't really recall right now but I am gonna be due in the next month or two so I'll double check then

It usually takes me 5.7 to get to the full mark on the dipstick when I change the filter as well. 5.1-5.3 when I just change the oil. I get free oil at work so I change the oil every 3k miles and filter every other oil change.

 

[96RedRunner]

Been using the YZZD3 filter and 6 qts of oil, spot on the full line for 20 yrs.

 

[phattyduck]

Been using the YZZD3 filter and 6 qts of oil, spot on the full line for 20 yrs.

Same here, though not for 20 years! (though 6 qts overfills mine by 0.1 to 0.2 quarts)

-Charlie

 

[Traveler74]

if I have understood correctly, Marvel Mystery Oil is mostly a detergent ???

Assuming I get all of the liquid oil out of the crankcase, and only the "baked on" black remains, how long is it safe to run MMO + 5W-30 ? Weeks? Months ?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Look up the msds or mds for it. It will give you all the ingredients by percent.

Stoddard Solvents is mineral spirits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

Same here, though not for 20 years! (though 6 qts overfills mine by 0.1 to 0.2 quarts)

-Charlie

Gotta be filter, you using YZZD1 "standard length" ? Both my Runners that way 6qt-Full line.
Been using Rotella T4 1 gal jugs, use 2qt measuring cup.

 

[Devbot]

MMO is just mineral oil and white spirits, and in that order. I have yet to hear of any negatives coming out of running MMO long term besides pre-existing leaks getting worse, purely because it will thin out your oil and these people in question didn't compensate for it - Marvel even warns about this on the bottle, if I recall. Mind you, you should be addressing any significant oil leak already before you go adding snake oils to fix other problems. I can personally say I ran it constantly on my last truck and never had any bad come from it.
In regards to time it'll probably take a couple full oil change intervals before you notice any difference, but that's preferred - better to slowly dissolve it then go fast and hard, knock a chunk loose and get it stuck between a rocker and lifter.
You could also look into other additives like Seafoam or Gumout, that are advertised as being oil additives (on top of fuel additives) and contain things like naphtha or PEA, which works great against carbon and cooked oil. Or, as previously mentioned, BG EPR. Never tried it myself but people have praised it for decades.

 

[TimGFL]

I had to pull the intake manifold off my '96 today and, boy are the intake ports gummed up... at least an eighth of an inch thick. Would MMO engine flush help clean that out, or would it be better to use the regular MMO in the gas? Or both?

 

[Devbot]

If you're looking to clean the carbon off your valves and ports, look into RedLine SI-1. Stupid good stuff. I ran a few bottles through upon getting my 4runner, and by the time I went through my knock sensor fiasco and took off the manifold a couple months later my valves didn't have a single speck on or near them. Also a big fan of the new BG44K Platinum, though I just use the fuel additive, not the "whole service package" gimmick. Gumout used to make some great cleaners (One n Done, All in One 2x Concentrate) but they've been discontinued and you gotta try and snag them off eBay or the like. Marvel advertises adding MMO to fuel to help free up injectors, but not much more beyond that, iirc
Just my $0.02

 

[phattyduck]

Gotta be filter, you using YZZD1 "standard length" ? Both my Runners that way 6qt-Full line.
Been using Rotella T4 1 gal jugs, use 2qt measuring cup.

It is the D3 filter, but I do use a Fumoto drain valve (skid plates!) and might be missing the last little bit in the pan during the drain process.

-Charlie