Master Cylinder upgrade options

[Rockdawg84]

josh,

did you ever decide what MC to swap in? Because of my new rear disk brakes. (love them) I would like to move to a little bigger MC as well. My research has revealed that Chevy Avalanche have both 1-1/8 and 1-1/4 MC with 2 post mounting which is what ours should be. I may pick one up this week and see how it goes.

Sam

 

[bikerjosh]

I think I responded in a another thread. I installed a 2lb residual valve on the rear circuit (need to reinstall as I have a little bit of a leak):sniper:
I have a 1 1/8 bore MC from a chevy blazer (same unit as Drifter33 is using I believe), haven't installed it yet as I've been busy getting ready for my daughter who is supposed to be born on March 6th (of course if she's anything like her mom, she'll be late). The 76 blazer MCs are pretty cheap, brand new at $35, got some adapter plugs from Sky that switch the two different SAE fittings to metric toyota fittings.
I'll post pics as soon as I get this done.
Josh

 

[awdjunkies]

I think I responded in a another thread. I installed a 2lb residual valve on the rear circuit (need to reinstall as I have a little bit of a leak):sniper:
I have a 1 1/8 bore MC from a chevy blazer (same unit as Drifter33 is using I believe), haven't installed it yet as I've been busy getting ready for my daughter who is supposed to be born on March 6th (of course if she's anything like her mom, she'll be late). The 76 blazer MCs are pretty cheap, brand new at $35, got some adapter plugs from Sky that switch the two different SAE fittings to metric toyota fittings.
I'll post pics as soon as I get this done.
Josh

Cute!! Congratulations on the future owner of your 4runner.

 

[Kung]

So, to restate this....if we have 'squishy' brakes, there ARE options (such as the T-100 and Sequoia master cylinders) to upgrade to?

 

[bikerjosh]

So, to restate this....if we have 'squishy' brakes, there ARE options (such as the T-100 and Sequoia master cylinders) to upgrade to?

I think both of those are 1" bore or smaller. I think the issue is you need to push more fluid through. My 98, has a 1" bore standard. I'm going to 1 1/8 first.

 

[Kung]

I think both of those are 1" bore or smaller. I think the issue is you need to push more fluid through. My 98, has a 1" bore standard. I'm going to 1 1/8 first.

And that's done how, specifically - using another MC from another vehicle? (I truly did read this thread; but am sicker than a dog right now and got easily confused. lol)

 

[bikerjosh]

And that's done how, specifically - using another MC from another vehicle? (I truly did read this thread; but am sicker than a dog right now and got easily confused. lol)

No worries, things are a littel off kilter out here since the weather is down right spring like. 57 F @ 5AM this morning on my way to work (about 22 degrees warmer than it should be)
MC is 1976 Chevy Blazer unit.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

...
Full floating rearing ends are necessary if your going to carry heavy loads. IE -more than 3/4 tons.

I like full floating rear ends as they are much stronger but for our 4runner, it is over kill and expensive.

If it were on a Taco, I would consider it as they are more likely to get overloaded with cargo and what not.

The Toyota Hilux (1995 - current), which is a 1-ton truck doesn't have a full floater.

 

[Rockdawg84]

The Toyota Hilux (1995 - current), which is a 1-ton truck doesn't have a full floater.

at least in North America, Hilux/surf = Tacoma/4Runner and they are 1/2 ton. Even Tundra is rated as a half ton I believe. The advantage of a full float axle is that even if a shaft is broken then the hub still carries the weight of the vehicle and it's cargo. But none of them have a master cylinder big enough for what we are doing it doesn't seem.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

Rockdawg84,

I would go with the MC and booster from the LC80 as those were made for 4-wheel disc brakes.

 

[mmml4]

I am running the booster and master cylinder from a 93 thru 98 T-100 1ton, it has a 1-1/16 bore master cylinder.

 

[Rockdawg84]

I am running the booster and master cylinder from a 93 thru 98 T-100 1ton, it has a 1-1/16 bore master cylinder.

that is great to know. So to confirm the booster has to be used to go from 2 post mounting of the MC to 4 post. How did the rest of the bolt in go? Was there need to modify anything else?

 

[Sean K.]

The Toyota Hilux (1995 - current), which is a 1-ton truck doesn't have a full floater.

Pretty sure the 1 ton DRW were full float. I haven't seen a SRW that was FF though.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/N4Tnvra36Ko/maxresdefault.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1wbgs_cTTA

 

[Sean K.]

that is great to know. So to confirm the booster has to be used to go from 2 post mounting of the MC to 4 post. How did the rest of the bolt in go? Was there need to modify anything else?

Tried to measure the bolt pattern on my booster ('99)....seems that a Wilwood 1 1/8" MC would work. Since our bore size is 1" (or 15/16...can remember which)....I don't think the 1 1/16" options will do much good.

Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-3380

I might try the Wilwood option for $81 over swapping boosters....but I'm a long ways out from worrying about it.

 

[mmml4]

that is great to know. So to confirm the booster has to be used to go from 2 post mounting of the MC to 4 post. How did the rest of the bolt in go? Was there need to modify anything else?

Yes on the 2 bolt to 4 bolt and no mods required. Seems like I had to adjust the length of the shaft coming out of the booster to brake pedal. Measured the old one and adjusted accordingly.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I purchased the TBU from a local guy parting out a rollover. (Think he is Kenworth guy here) the OEM pedal got spongy and I needed to replace both front rubber lines. I chose that opportunity to install the the stuff. I removed the old calipers and and held them out of the way with bunji straps. Did the necessary trimming and what not to mount the replacement calipers and preped everything for installing the new hoses and connecting them to the tundra calipers. That way I had minimum brake fluid loss and less of a chance for air to go bad places.

I opened the bleeder on the tundra calipers so the air had a place to go installed the new rubber on the tundra caliper and the removed the old rubber line and at the frame and connected the new line to the hard line. After solid fluid came out bleeder I closed it and did exactly the same thing to the passenger side. After that I used the pressure bleeder to flush all old fluid out.

The pedal felt better than the OEM setup with the cracked rubber and gave it back to the wife.

A few months later I drove it and pedal travel was pretty much before stopping but wife said nothing about it. I was changing oil and rotating tires and pulled rear drums for a brake inspection and the rear wheels free spun on the spider gears for a good bit of time. I adjusted each rear brake shoe until I heard light scraping on both sides.

I was never happy with how the ebrake felt after replacing the bell cranks so I removed the springs from them and pulled back on the arm and readjusted the bolt head gap to the required thickness (.030 or something like that) on both sides.

The above made a huge difference in pedal feel and it's been maintained for half a year now. (I also told he to start using the ebrake to help keep the shoes adjusted).


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[Tyler James Inc]

Tried to measure the bolt pattern on my booster ('99)....seems that a Wilwood 1 1/8" MC would work. Since our bore size is 1" (or 15/16...can remember which)....I don't think the 1 1/16" options will do much good.

Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-3380

I might try the Wilwood option for $81 over swapping boosters....but I'm a long ways out from worrying about it.

But the holes are on a vertical plane vs horizontal. Maybe the booster pattern is on an equally-spaced circle, and can be rotated 90* on the firewall. Can't say I've tried it.

How can one tell a difference between a single-diaphragm vs dual? And do the dual diaphragm boosters provide more assistance- given the same vacuum?

 

[Sean K.]

But the holes are on a vertical plane vs horizontal. Maybe the booster pattern is on an equally-spaced circle, and can be rotated 90* on the firewall. Can't say I've tried it.

How can one tell a difference between a single-diaphragm vs dual? And do the dual diaphragm boosters provide more assistance- given the same vacuum?

Apologies. I can't find the Wilwood one I *thought* would work....

It's been a while (like 6 months or so) since I looked into this and it *appears* that they don't make the one *I thought* I looked at. I thought the one I linked was it...with just a remote reservoir option as the one I saw a while back was like this in terms of the reservoir: Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: High Volume Master Cylinder

Now I'm wondering if it was a CNC brakes instead.....nope, just checked. They only have vertical mounting.

I could have sworn is was actually a 3 1/4ish" mounting pattern for the Wilwood....not the 2 1/4" they are showing now. Maybe I'm smoking crack or just getting old, LOL.

This is the closest I've found and it's way more expensive than what I was looking at (IIRC, it was under $100): Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders: Aluminum Tandem Master Cylinder

Sorry for muddying the waters. I may still try the last one I linked.....not sure yet.

 

[krenaud33]

I have the FJ80 Master from Marlin on my 85' crawler which has Tacoma brake setup in front and disc brakes in the rear. I also run a proportioning valve and the setup works well. Not sure if it will bolt up to 3rd gens but perhaps it would be worth looking into.

https://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/master-cylinder/big-bore-fj80-brake-master-cylinder

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[jstim]

I have the FJ80 Master from Marlin on my 85' crawler which has Tacoma brake setup in front and disc brakes in the rear. I also run a proportioning valve and the setup works well. Not sure if it will bolt up to 3rd gens but perhaps it would be worth looking into.

https://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/master-cylinder/big-bore-fj80-brake-master-cylinder

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So this MC should make the pedal travel go away? Or at least the extra pedal travel?