Matt's build thread
- Thread starter Matt123
- Start date
Cozen89
Member
Man your 4runner looks awesome in these shots! Just what I want mine to look like some day. Very nice!
Well time for an update. I finally finished my grill mod. Added some Toyota lettering and raptor style LED's. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.
Matt123
New member
So far so good. I do wish I went with heavy duty springs due to all the weight. I did notice some small marks forming. Everything seems to be good now.
Yeah it's 3''. I had to do the BMC and some fender liner trimming.
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Matt123
New member
http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/inst...0 4Runner-FJ Cruiser Cold Air Intake IssD.pdf
If I recall correctly everything was exactly same as the older models except the zap straps (18). Ordered it from Camelbacktoyotaparts.com. It doesn't state that it will fit but there's no issues.
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Kgallardo93
New member
nice looking car
weeeee
New member
I ended up sourcing a washer bottle that would fit without relocating the air pump. It's a lot smaller then the factory one but will work for my needs.
What washer bottle did you get? I'm planning on putting my compressor in the same area against the firewall, and I may need to relocate my washer bottle.
Matt123
New member
This is what I purchased Sku# 8790 (Bottle) 11490 (Cap)
1.5 Quart Natural Tank w/Mounting Tabs 7.74" L x 3.62" W x 5.9" H (2-1/4" Neck) | U.S. Plastic Corp.
Matt123
New member
Added 4.88 gears and a front ARB air locker. Home Page - JustDifferentials.com did the install and couldn't be happier. I highly recommend them. RPM's are at 2300 at 60 mph. Really love how its no longer searching for gears.
Also added HeaftyFab's rear bumper and relocated the camera to the tire carrier. Seeing how I couldn't find any information on this, I will described what I did:
I used the OEM camera and extended the wires. It was pretty straight forward just very time consuming. You need to undo a few 10mm bolts in order to remove the “4Runner” logo. It also has clips holding it in place. I pulled it out just enough to get access at the bolts to hold the camera in place. Once I had the camera off, I used some ABS to cover the hole where the camera was. Then I traced the camera mount in order to make a mounting bracket. I ran the the wires starting at the stock camera location and ran them straight down the tail gate, then back up the other side. I used 3M wire clips to hold the wires in place. The hardest part was following the wires back into the truck. I used a welding wire to find the path up to the larger rubber grommet. I then attached the wires to the end and pulled them through. This was very difficult. For an amount of time I thought it wasn't possible! You should be able to see them running along the hatch and thats what I tried to follow. At that point I checked to make sure the window would still roll down without issue. Just be careful when rolling it down with the cover pulled off the window is kinda sloppy. I finished running the wires out the passenger side of the truck. I drilled a hole to allow the wires to come out at the back of the truck just behind the OEM bumper cover. I found that a yogurt container worked perfect as a camera cover. Here are some updated pictures.
A few shots of my last wheeling trip.
Needs more flex.
Also added HeaftyFab's rear bumper and relocated the camera to the tire carrier. Seeing how I couldn't find any information on this, I will described what I did:
I used the OEM camera and extended the wires. It was pretty straight forward just very time consuming. You need to undo a few 10mm bolts in order to remove the “4Runner” logo. It also has clips holding it in place. I pulled it out just enough to get access at the bolts to hold the camera in place. Once I had the camera off, I used some ABS to cover the hole where the camera was. Then I traced the camera mount in order to make a mounting bracket. I ran the the wires starting at the stock camera location and ran them straight down the tail gate, then back up the other side. I used 3M wire clips to hold the wires in place. The hardest part was following the wires back into the truck. I used a welding wire to find the path up to the larger rubber grommet. I then attached the wires to the end and pulled them through. This was very difficult. For an amount of time I thought it wasn't possible! You should be able to see them running along the hatch and thats what I tried to follow. At that point I checked to make sure the window would still roll down without issue. Just be careful when rolling it down with the cover pulled off the window is kinda sloppy. I finished running the wires out the passenger side of the truck. I drilled a hole to allow the wires to come out at the back of the truck just behind the OEM bumper cover. I found that a yogurt container worked perfect as a camera cover. Here are some updated pictures.
A few shots of my last wheeling trip.
Needs more flex.
Matt123
New member
So a lot has changed since my last post. I really should stay more on top of this. For about 3-4 months I had no 4 wheel drive. My dash had the 4x4 light flashing, abs light, and the multi terrain select. I must have takin it into Toyota 10 times trying to get it fixed. It kept throwing CR1258. They replaced the 4x4 ECU and the skid control along with the brake master cylinder. They checked on the wiring and everything was coming back good. Since they did all there protocol check marks. They told me if I wanted them to continue to diagnostics I would have to put my truck back to stock. So I went to work doing some research on the problem. Luckily there is tons of info on the FJ forums. I found that it was mostly the A.D.D or the transmission switches.
I checked the switches as Im sure Toyota did as well but I wanted to make sure. They turned out to be fine. Next I moved onto the ADD. I tried removed just the cover but ended up striping the last phillips screw in order to pull it off. I tried to peak in to see if I could see anything with out braking anything thing. Behold water started dripping out. Normally water would be a bad sign, but I was very happy to see it. So at this point I have to remove it from the diff. When I pulled it off it was quite corroded. The motor was operating preparing but the switch inside the ADD wasn't able to make contact being so corroded I tried cleaning up the contact but no luck. I put everything back together but I took some photos to show Toyota. I sent them an e-mail and they booked in to have it replace. I was so impressed with there service, I actually wrote to Toyota saying how happy I was with them. They could have easily said Your truck is to heavily modified blah blah blah, but they didn't. Here are some photos of the ADD. Hopefully this might help someone else.
Now to the fun stuff!!!!!
Went to town on this right away. Everything was pretty straight forward.
Welded up some gussets.
Modified the lower cradle.
I didn't have a wrench big enough to removed the factory bump stops so I made one from some spare steel I have kicking around. Gotta love having a welder.
Bam!
I had to make some bigger bump stops.
I had to trim a lot of the skid plate. Then trim again and then once more ha. I think I should finally have it now.
Now I have all this to look at. I did notice an old rub mark on the hose clamp. I spoke to Icon and said it wasn't anything to worry about and to replace the 30 dollar hose when it is result. Anyone interested in an Icon stage 5 kit let me know. :wink2:
I will be sure to get some flex shots posted soon.
I checked the switches as Im sure Toyota did as well but I wanted to make sure. They turned out to be fine. Next I moved onto the ADD. I tried removed just the cover but ended up striping the last phillips screw in order to pull it off. I tried to peak in to see if I could see anything with out braking anything thing. Behold water started dripping out. Normally water would be a bad sign, but I was very happy to see it. So at this point I have to remove it from the diff. When I pulled it off it was quite corroded. The motor was operating preparing but the switch inside the ADD wasn't able to make contact being so corroded I tried cleaning up the contact but no luck. I put everything back together but I took some photos to show Toyota. I sent them an e-mail and they booked in to have it replace. I was so impressed with there service, I actually wrote to Toyota saying how happy I was with them. They could have easily said Your truck is to heavily modified blah blah blah, but they didn't. Here are some photos of the ADD. Hopefully this might help someone else.
Now to the fun stuff!!!!!
Went to town on this right away. Everything was pretty straight forward.
Welded up some gussets.
Modified the lower cradle.
I didn't have a wrench big enough to removed the factory bump stops so I made one from some spare steel I have kicking around. Gotta love having a welder.
Bam!
I had to make some bigger bump stops.
I had to trim a lot of the skid plate. Then trim again and then once more ha. I think I should finally have it now.
Now I have all this to look at. I did notice an old rub mark on the hose clamp. I spoke to Icon and said it wasn't anything to worry about and to replace the 30 dollar hose when it is result. Anyone interested in an Icon stage 5 kit let me know. :wink2:
I will be sure to get some flex shots posted soon.
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4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Nicely Done Matt! Doing the same TC setup w dual Kings, eventually, just have to find the time. What was your ball park install time? This is my daily so I will have to make arrangements for that. Also, where are your fastener points on either end of your limit strap? I see the clevis and tried to zoom in but can't really tell.
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Snow-Jet-MK5
New member
Would you sell just the lower arms?So a lot has changed since my last post. I really should stay more on top of this. For about 3-4 months I had no 4 wheel drive. My dash had the 4x4 light flashing, abs light, and the multi terrain select. I must have takin it into Toyota 10 times trying to get it fixed. It kept throwing CR1258. They replaced the 4x4 ECU and the skid control along with the brake master cylinder. They checked on the wiring and everything was coming back good. Since they did all there protocol check marks. They told me if I wanted them to continue to diagnostics I would have to put my truck back to stock. So I went to work doing some research on the problem. Luckily there is tons of info on the FJ forums. I found that it was mostly the A.D.D or the transmission switches.
I checked the switches as Im sure Toyota did as well but I wanted to make sure. They turned out to be fine. Next I moved onto the ADD. I tried removed just the cover but ended up striping the last phillips screw in order to pull it off. I tried to peak in to see if I could see anything with out braking anything thing. Behold water started dripping out. Normally water would be a bad sign, but I was very happy to see it. So at this point I have to remove it from the diff. When I pulled it off it was quite corroded. The motor was operating preparing but the switch inside the ADD wasn't able to make contact being so corroded I tried cleaning up the contact but no luck. I put everything back together but I took some photos to show Toyota. I sent them an e-mail and they booked in to have it replace. I was so impressed with there service, I actually wrote to Toyota saying how happy I was with them. They could have easily said Your truck is to heavily modified blah blah blah, but they didn't. Here are some photos of the ADD. Hopefully this might help someone else.
Now to the fun stuff!!!!!
Went to town on this right away. Everything was pretty straight forward.
Welded up some gussets.
Modified the lower cradle.
I didn't have a wrench big enough to removed the factory bump stops so I made one from some spare steel I have kicking around. Gotta love having a welder.
Bam!
I had to make some bigger bump stops.
I had to trim a lot of the skid plate. Then trim again and then once more ha. I think I should finally have it now.
Now I have all this to look at. I did notice an old rub mark on the hose clamp. I spoke to Icon and said it wasn't anything to worry about and to replace the 30 dollar hose when it is result. Anyone interested in an Icon stage 5 kit let me know. :wink2:
I will be sure to get some flex shots posted soon.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
honda250xtitan
New member
did you feel the need to pre heat the cast spindle before welding the gusset to it? how'd it take the weld?
IMO you may wanna look into some "shin guards" instead of the boots for the rear shocks. boots like to trap dirt and water inside. but if they worked fine for those icons i guess it won't hurt those kings.
LT looks AWESOME!!!!
you keeping the KDSS on the rear and deleting it up front? is that doable?
Matt123
New member
It can definitely be done over the weekend, but I would start on a Friday after work to make sure.
It took me about 2 days for the front. I took my time and wanted to make sure everything was done correctly. I did spend a lot of time making a bracket on the drivers side to clear the KDSS line. I think I made 3 before finally getting it right. I know I set it up like I did it all at the same time. I did the rears like 8 weeks after. The rear shocks were still being built when I installed the front.
As for the clevis I will try to grab a photo for you. One end gets bolted to the second shock location. The other end has a bracket that is welded close to the top of the frame.
Not looking to split up the kit yet. I would like to sell it all together.
The spindles welded nicely. I welded them both at the same time, so they were staying pretty warm. I was afraid of them warping if I were to heat them up. So we will see if they crack, so far so good.
I won't be running the boots again and I plan on making some shock skid plates.
Both sway bars are removed. I did try driving with just the rear attached before installing the rear shock and it was doing some pretty funky stuff. I flexed it out and didn't level back out for a few blocks.
