Mid-Travel - ACTUAL numbers..?
- Thread starter jkeith.w
- Start date
Black798
New member
Don't worry Keith I didn't forget you lol
So this was at full flex with limit straps connected.
Coilover length (I measured from the top of the coilover bucket to the center of the lower bolt.)
Compressed: 16"
Extended: 20" keep in mind this is with the limit strap on, there's still some droop in there if I lengthened the straps some.
Center of hub to fender
Compressed: 16.75"
Extended: 26"
So I guess I lied Im getting just under 10 inches of travel, but again that's with the straps on, if I removed those I would be getting 10 inches but at that point, the CV integrity starts to diminish.
theesotericone
New member
I spent 4 hours tubbing today as well. I also learned I can't weld for shit. My plan B is to cut the sheet metal to fit then self tap it into place. Then drive it down to [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] so he can weld it. lol
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Here’s where I am currently:
Tired stuffed -
Marking for 35”+
First Layer (wish I’d seen photos of the layers prior to starting; would’ve saved a bunch of time)
Second Layer - into the lower door hinge reinforcement and the drain tube guide here
Initial vertical cut (making sure I wasn’t into the harness or dash)
You can see here that I’m trying to tub up to the upper wheel well ceiling and follow that arc -
Wheel back on (32.5 here)
Aaand nope! Need to cut more on the sides!
I got a pair of spacers to throw on and get my tire off of the frame rail at full lock; then I’ll go back at it and see what more needs to come off tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Tired stuffed -
Marking for 35”+
First Layer (wish I’d seen photos of the layers prior to starting; would’ve saved a bunch of time)
Second Layer - into the lower door hinge reinforcement and the drain tube guide here
Initial vertical cut (making sure I wasn’t into the harness or dash)
You can see here that I’m trying to tub up to the upper wheel well ceiling and follow that arc -
Wheel back on (32.5 here)
Aaand nope! Need to cut more on the sides!
I got a pair of spacers to throw on and get my tire off of the frame rail at full lock; then I’ll go back at it and see what more needs to come off tomorrow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
theesotericone
New member
You're going to have to hammer the sheet metal under the airbox if you want to clear 35's at full stuff and lock. Here's what mine ended up looking like. I still don't even know if I can get the airbox back in. lol
theesotericone
New member
About 3" at the top and then less on both front and rear. I started with my 35 stuffed and straight. I used the tire to trace a line all the way around. Cut that. Then tubbed. Then I put it back on and had to cut more of the fender. It's not an exact science but it seems to have worked out pretty well.
Can you borrow a 35 from someone to use? It's way better then adding numbers to a 32. lol
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
no doubt. I'm in mathmagical land over here. :der:
(- although it would almost have to be new/full-size..)
Bandit Runner
Senior Member
When I had 32’s and was tubbing for future 35’s, I had some 1.5” thick foam laying around. So I wrapped it around the tire to simulate a 35. Worked really well. Good luck.
