mid travel

F

fire runner

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Rough road fab makes a mid travel set up by replacing upper uniball to get almost ten inches of travel and i was just wondering if any one has this and iff they like the set up and what others think of the theroy behind it all
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It is a direct bolt in like the tc lower conversion for 86-95 toy 4wd if you go to rough road fab its in there parts dept it sort of functions like bj spacer but alows more articulation i would send link but nnew to all this and dont know how i was wanting to try blaze land for the extra travvel but not sure about the width on trails and this complete would be around the same price after all finished
 
I remember reading about their setups on the desert racing boards. I may be mistaken, but seems like it requires fabrication skills by the end user for installation.
 
It seems straight forward it seems to be like bj spacer but better how does a runner handle offroad with a spacer with the little bit of extra travel it gives you i was looking at the conversion and dual bilestien 5100
 
If pure travel is what you are looking for, nothing beats a solid axle setup. It costs a lot more than just an IFS eliminator kit though.
 
Straight axle not for me and i saw the post on yota tech i been looking for info from others thoughts opinoins and so on i tried to make account on yota tech to contact op but no luck i will try again later
 
im running blazeland LT kit up front and everything will work on your 2nd gen.

the issue with trying to get 10 inchs at factory width is really hard. sure you can get the factory arms to cycle 10 inches but can you get a factory lenght cv axle to cycle 10 inches without binding?

the point and need for longer arms is to also run a longer cv axle (t-100) this will allow more travel without binding.

love my 100% bolt on blazeland lt kit

SAS with locker done correctly just in parts would be right at $2000. that is just for front end stuff plus not including labor.
 
I wouldnt mess with it. It's $420 and you will still need to buy stronger cv axles, modify your steering and shocks and you will now put a ton of stress on the lower ball joints when its flexed out. You're going to have about a grand or more into it all said and done and you're still stuck with the IFS. You should either use a tc or blazeland long travel kit or solid axle swap.
 
The idea was to modifie cv install upper and lower uniball and bilestien 5100 all said and done like 1,100$ ans keep stock width i am scared by what every one tells me about running longer a arms with torsion bars about ripping sockets out blaze land when said and done will run me 800 to900 more
 
fire runner said:
The idea was to modifie cv install upper and lower uniball and bilestien 5100 all said and done like 1,100$ ans keep stock width i am scared by what every one tells me about running longer a arms with torsion bars about ripping sockets out blaze land when said and done will run me 800 to900 more
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You gotta pay to play.

You can get oodles of travel out of the stock IFS without resorting to uniballs. Yank the sway bar, stick a ball joint spacer in there and relax the torsion bars a touch, and go to low-pro bumpstops. I guarantee if you do all that you'll rub when you stuff 33s.
 
I ran ball joint spacers on my '86 and wheeled it decently hard, and had no trouble at all. I only know of one guy who thinks they're unsafe (the guy who owns Blazeland), and I don't believe I've seen even one report of a control arm actually failing due to a ball joint spacer install.
 
Ha ha sounds like a good thing by installing spacer and relaxing t bar what diff do you notice in handling or does it handle the same as stock and what runner are you driving now and what do you have for front suspension and do i need or could i install a 1inch diff drop
 
I use to run bj spacers and increased travel for sure with correct shocks of course. I used OME shocks, low profile compression bumps, diff drop and no sway bars. Didn't touch the torsion bars. I raised the rear accordingly. Rode pretty good but no sway bar is noticeable for a few days till your used to it. Handle bumps on road much better

My buddies 2nd gen runner is basically running what I had before and raises his rear accordingly. So far he likes it and the increase in lift
 
So the diff drop i take it is so that i dont need to have modified cv so that the inner bell does not bind when fully extended
 
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