Mileage Update

[blink]

nice, how u like the S/C? how much horse and torque it pumps up to now?

still getting everything spec'd out so I dont have any numbers yet.... Lets just say it sounds like a jet...lol

 

[Road Warrior]

Even if the army does this (and I am not so sure they do) - You do realize the main army battle tank uses a Turbine, right? And everything else is pretty much diesel?

Thanks for the smartgas.net link. I find the layout quite interesting. Virtually every article is authored by the same guy, Louis LaPoint but appears to try and come across as some large organization.

This guy appears to have, uh, interesting thought processes and seems to know a lot of stuff that the best and brightest engineers in the world have seemed to totally be wrong on.

This is a great read: "facts" and "Myths"

http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/quickies.htm

He's got everything from the "Big Oil Conspiracy" and some of his links are great:

I wonder if he's got a perpetual motion machine under development, next to his 100MPG carb and tinfoil hat?

If this guy really wants some dough as he's asking for donations, he and his partners should sell their devices off to an automaker for, oh, a meager $10,000,000 or so. They'd probably jump at the bargain instead of spending BILLIONS on hybrid and other techs they're investing in now. If they only knew some dude had it all figured out in his basement! [/B]

BINGO!:iagree:

 

[ProMed]

My 06 Limited V8 has a little over 36,500 miles now and with resetting at every fill up I am usually averaging around 17-18.5 mpg on the computer. Not exactly sure what that calculates to in reality.

 

[abigpicture]

BINGO!:iagree:

I have to admit that Lou's site at times yields great skepticism. I simply decided that I was going to actually do all the 14 steps he has for a high mileage tune-up and see what actually happens.

So far the results are very good. I have never hit 28 MPG or even close since I bought the truck new in 1996.

Looking for that magic 35 MPG next...

I'm giving the guy the benefit of the doubt. Me thinks he knows how to get High mileage..and longevity out of his vehicles. Remember the 10% ethanol mix ruins your gas mileage. But who would benefit from that??

Regards,
JOHN

 

[abigpicture]

BINGO!:iagree:

oh yes the acetone was for the tank of the previous current model which runs on a BEll and Howell turbine.



HEre is my question to you skeptics. ( I am one too but not nearly now that I am getting results)

AT what point in my experiment do you guys say " hey this Lou guy is right?" 28MPG hwy 35 MPG hwy 40 mpg HWY...?

at some point you have to say He's on to something!...but you don;t have to adopt his suggestions.

Regards,
JOHN

 

[Road Warrior]

oh yes the acetone was for the tank of the previous current model which runs on a BEll and Howell turbine.



HEre is my question to you skeptics. ( I am one too but not nearly now that I am getting results)

AT what point in my experiment do you guys say " hey this Lou guy is right?" 28MPG hwy 35 MPG hwy 40 mpg HWY...?

at some point you have to say He's on to something!...but you don;t have to adopt his suggestions.

Regards,
JOHN

I didn't mean to be disrespectful with my comment. But the site you reference has some...how do I say....extremely questionable assertions within it. I do not have the time (....but do have the inclination!) to debate. "Here" are just a few points I take issue with regarding the "FAQ" thread from the site you referenced: [here] are my resposnes.

"MYTH: Light oil such as 5W-30 delivers the best mileage. Utter nonsense. Five decades of road testing and engine dyno testing for efficiency has shown that straight 40 or 20W-50 or 15W-40 delivers the best mileage for your car or truck."

[ Well, it is widely known that NASCAR runs real light Vis synthetic lubes when qualifying at places like Talledega where they need to squeeze every fraction of horsepower they can from the choked off restrictor plate engine. Also, if the crank inside an engine experiences 'windage' (the mechanical resistance, i.e., friction of a fluid on a moving part) I'm fairly sure that can be related to viscosity...which is defined as rate of flow, or resistance to movement...depending on how you look at it. I'm pretty sure both of those things can be expressed in some form as affecting HP, but I'm not smart enough to do the equation. ]

"MYTH: Thick oil has too much friction. 35-percent better mileage can be attained in some cases with a thicker oil. But use a good oil, not some cheap brand. The little you save in the cost of oil comes back to haunt you with rapid wear and poor mileage.

HINT: Engines.love a thicker oil because it has less friction and wear. Find oils with SF, SG and SH specifications. Avoid SJ and SL oil ratings. Start using motorcycle oils instead of automotive oil. It is quite easy to demonstrate the fact of thick versus thin. I first did it in 1967. I used to add a few oz. of bright stock to engine oils to reduce friction for better power and mileage."

[ WOW- Oil isn't "thicker", so I have no idea what this guy is saying. Period. Oil is either more viscous or less viscous at a g iven temperature...again touching on my point from above....it flows quickly or it flows slowly. As far as this resulting in 'Engines love thicker oil...', ...1967(?)...easy to demonstrate 'thick' vs 'thin'....uhm....no repsonse....except that I'm all ears! ]

"MYTH: A light oil gets into tight places better. This is very far from the truth because light oils are easily squeezed out of tight places with high PSI loading. Plus light oils are not fortified for protection against high PSI. Heavier oils always have less friction and better protection.

HINT: The car companies probably discourage high mileage gasoline and heavier oils because engines last much longer when less gasoline is consumed inside an engine. In other words, they appear to prefer engines that do not last and burn more gasoline. They prefer oils that will wear out your engines in about 70,000 miles. Avoid thin "break-in oils" in new engines because these may cause permanent damage to walls and rings. I use the red EAL engine oil supplement from Torco International or their excellent Cam Lube in new engines."

[ OK, know we're tossing around terms like 'psi loading'???? Lubricants have a characteristic called film strength which form a microscopic sacrificial barrier on metal surfaces largely due to EP additives which have almost nothing at all to do with 'light oils getting squeezed out of tight places'. ]

"MYTH: It takes a very light oil such as 5W or 0W to start cold engines in places like Canada or Minnesota. That is silly because it is not the weight that matters but the Pour Point of the oil that determines how it flows at very low temperatures. BUT Pour Point is not mentioned on the label. You find it in the specs given for each oil by the manufacturer.

HINT: To guarantee your oil will flow at below zero temps, add one quart of a good synthetic 5W-40 oil. But just one. We always use Texaco-Havoline 5W-40 synthetic for this reason but only one quart. Most synthetics remain fluid to nearly 40 or 50 below zero. A common 5W oil may become solid at minus 10 F. Why? Because petroleum oils freeze easily while synthetics do not. But straight synthetics in general do not stick to metal as well as petroleum based lubricants. It is a compromise as usual."

[ Now he actually has the concept of vis correct because it's always related (scaled or gauged) against time at a given temp. But Pour Point is usually grouped within various viscosities. You usually will not find an SAE 50/ISO 220 vis lubricant with cold flow or pour point properties that challenge an SAE 10/ISO 22. Aside from that....he's now a lubricant blending chemist????!!!! ]

OK, there's much more, but that's my abbreviated response, as I'm not going to put anymore effort into this. Have I quantified my original response? Personally, I'm OK with 23-24 mpg with my 4WD full frame V6 gas engine.

 

[abigpicture]

Yes Road,
I am not any type of motorhead or anything. Lou's comments
to me seam reasonable and enlightened ,but I have no way or time to actually check his website for errors. I only have a few college physics courses under my belt other than that, I'm in the dark.. I am interested in squeezing out max MPG on a truck I paid for years ago and not worried about the outcome good or bad.

These comments are not really aimed personally at you or any other poster. I love a challenge. I don't need an extra $50- $100 a month in fuel savings but I'll take it. What I am interested in (after reading this gentlemen's site and talking with him ) is seeing if I can increase my MPG to a level beyond even current hybrid technology..I think the FOrd escape now states 27 hwy
I got 28 hwy already (and the 4RUNNER is like 600 pounds heavier) of course city is 29 mpg so that is my achilles heal....If I can get 29-31 city than that is unbelievable....

so this really is a personal challenge to me and since my truck needs a few new parts for maintenance anyway I decided to use this opportunity
to take Louis at his word. my results will speak for themselves good or bad...so far good...but I have 4 biggies to do yet.and 1 small one

I just put on 4 new Bridgestone alenzas yesterday. I can already tell that the truck coasts much better, but have not driven a full tank on them yet. I bought one size larger tires 265/75/16's so I have to add 3.4% to my odometer reading to get actual mileage.

I still have to:

1) replace my plugs with cheap NGK's 1.77 each which I have..( I will drill them as Lou suggests(I.still have original plugs)
2) replace my plug wires and coils with NGK;s ( I have never replaced the factory wires and I'm at 130,000 miles so its time.).
3) Add the fog warmer ( need to get yet) have a mechanic ready
to install for me
4) Add the fog squirter ( need this too) this way I put 20-30oz of my (acetone xylene and gp-7) mix near the engine where it is automaticallly squirted in as you drive. that way you only need
to mix every couple months or so.
5) LAST item is to change transmission fluid.

thats it....then I will have to take real world tests and see what happens...

Remember though Road....Nascar and racing is into horsepower, speed and winning.....I'm only really interested in MPG. I have
enough speeding tickets.

All the best
JOHN

I didn't mean to be disrespectful with my comment. But the site you reference has some...how do I say....extremely questionable assertions within it. I do not have the time (....but do have the inclination!) to debate. "Here" are just a few points I take issue with regarding the "FAQ" thread from the site you referenced: [here] are my resposnes.

"MYTH: Light oil such as 5W-30 delivers the best mileage. Utter nonsense. Five decades of road testing and engine dyno testing for efficiency has shown that straight 40 or 20W-50 or 15W-40 delivers the best mileage for your car or truck."

[ Well, it is widely known that NASCAR runs real light Vis synthetic lubes when qualifying at places like Talledega where they need to squeeze every fraction of horsepower they can from the choked off restrictor plate engine. Also, if the crank inside an engine experiences 'windage' (the mechanical resistance, i.e., friction of a fluid on a moving part) I'm fairly sure that can be related to viscosity...which is defined as rate of flow, or resistance to movement...depending on how you look at it. I'm pretty sure both of those things can be expressed in some form as affecting HP, but I'm not smart enough to do the equation. ]

"MYTH: Thick oil has too much friction. 35-percent better mileage can be attained in some cases with a thicker oil. But use a good oil, not some cheap brand. The little you save in the cost of oil comes back to haunt you with rapid wear and poor mileage.

HINT: Engines.love a thicker oil because it has less friction and wear. Find oils with SF, SG and SH specifications. Avoid SJ and SL oil ratings. Start using motorcycle oils instead of automotive oil. It is quite easy to demonstrate the fact of thick versus thin. I first did it in 1967. I used to add a few oz. of bright stock to engine oils to reduce friction for better power and mileage."

[ WOW- Oil isn't "thicker", so I have no idea what this guy is saying. Period. Oil is either more viscous or less viscous at a g iven temperature...again touching on my point from above....it flows quickly or it flows slowly. As far as this resulting in 'Engines love thicker oil...', ...1967(?)...easy to demonstrate 'thick' vs 'thin'....uhm....no repsonse....except that I'm all ears! ]

"MYTH: A light oil gets into tight places better. This is very far from the truth because light oils are easily squeezed out of tight places with high PSI loading. Plus light oils are not fortified for protection against high PSI. Heavier oils always have less friction and better protection.

HINT: The car companies probably discourage high mileage gasoline and heavier oils because engines last much longer when less gasoline is consumed inside an engine. In other words, they appear to prefer engines that do not last and burn more gasoline. They prefer oils that will wear out your engines in about 70,000 miles. Avoid thin "break-in oils" in new engines because these may cause permanent damage to walls and rings. I use the red EAL engine oil supplement from Torco International or their excellent Cam Lube in new engines."

[ OK, know we're tossing around terms like 'psi loading'???? Lubricants have a characteristic called film strength which form a microscopic sacrificial barrier on metal surfaces largely due to EP additives which have almost nothing at all to do with 'light oils getting squeezed out of tight places'. ]

"MYTH: It takes a very light oil such as 5W or 0W to start cold engines in places like Canada or Minnesota. That is silly because it is not the weight that matters but the Pour Point of the oil that determines how it flows at very low temperatures. BUT Pour Point is not mentioned on the label. You find it in the specs given for each oil by the manufacturer.

HINT: To guarantee your oil will flow at below zero temps, add one quart of a good synthetic 5W-40 oil. But just one. We always use Texaco-Havoline 5W-40 synthetic for this reason but only one quart. Most synthetics remain fluid to nearly 40 or 50 below zero. A common 5W oil may become solid at minus 10 F. Why? Because petroleum oils freeze easily while synthetics do not. But straight synthetics in general do not stick to metal as well as petroleum based lubricants. It is a compromise as usual."

[ Now he actually has the concept of vis correct because it's always related (scaled or gauged) against time at a given temp. But Pour Point is usually grouped within various viscosities. You usually will not find an SAE 50/ISO 220 vis lubricant with cold flow or pour point properties that challenge an SAE 10/ISO 22. Aside from that....he's now a lubricant blending chemist????!!!! ]

OK, there's much more, but that's my abbreviated response, as I'm not going to put anymore effort into this. Have I quantified my original response? Personally, I'm OK with 23-24 mpg with my 4WD full frame V6 gas engine.

 

[Road Warrior]

Yes Road,
I am not any type of motorhead or anything. Lou's comments
to me seam reasonable and enlightened ,but I have no way or time to actually check his website for errors. I only have a few college physics courses under my belt other than that, I'm in the dark.. I am interested in squeezing out max MPG on a truck I paid for years ago and not worried about the outcome good or bad.

These comments are not really aimed personally at you or any other poster. I love a challenge. I don't need an extra $50- $100 a month in fuel savings but I'll take it. What I am interested in (after reading this gentlemen's site and talking with him ) is seeing if I can increase my MPG to a level beyond even current hybrid technology..I think the FOrd escape now states 27 hwy
I got 28 hwy already (and the 4RUNNER is like 600 pounds heavier) of course city is 29 mpg so that is my achilles heal....If I can get 29-31 city than that is unbelievable....

so this really is a personal challenge to me and since my truck needs a few new parts for maintenance anyway I decided to use this opportunity
to take Louis at his word. my results will speak for themselves good or bad...so far good...but I have 4 biggies to do yet.and 1 small one

I just put on 4 new Bridgestone alenzas yesterday. I can already tell that the truck coasts much better, but have not driven a full tank on them yet. I bought one size larger tires 265/75/16's so I have to add 3.4% to my odometer reading to get actual mileage.

I still have to:

1) replace my plugs with cheap NGK's 1.77 each which I have..( I will drill them as Lou suggests(I.still have original plugs)
2) replace my plug wires and coils with NGK;s ( I have never replaced the factory wires and I'm at 130,000 miles so its time.).
3) Add the fog warmer ( need to get yet) have a mechanic ready
to install for me
4) Add the fog squirter ( need this too) this way I put 20-30oz of my (acetone xylene and gp-7) mix near the engine where it is automaticallly squirted in as you drive. that way you only need
to mix every couple months or so.
5) LAST item is to change transmission fluid.

thats it....then I will have to take real world tests and see what happens...

Remember though Road....Nascar and racing is into horsepower, speed and winning.....I'm only really interested in MPG. I have
enough speeding tickets.

All the best
JOHN

Looking forward to reading your results!

 

[alaskaman]

I am averaging 20 mpg in my 1st 1000 miles on my 07 SE 4x4

 

[abigpicture]

I am averaging 20 mpg in my 1st 1000 miles on my 07 SE 4x4

thats decent..is yours manual or automatic?

Regards,
JOHN

 

[alaskaman]

my 07 SE with the six is an automatic.

 

[abigpicture]

my 07 SE with the six is an automatic.

what were the mileage ratings on the sticker when you bought it?

curious...mine in 1996 were 16/19 but I think Toyota has improved them

Regards,
JOHN

 

[alaskaman]

17/21

 

[alaskaman]

So does Acetone ruin your seals and void the warranty or is it wonderful and safe?

 

[abigpicture]

So does Acetone ruin your seals and void the warranty or is it wonderful and safe?

I;d only be concerned if you were going to use 100% acetone....

the small amounts I and many use willl not harm but help your engine....

Im getting 20 MPG in around town here in D.C. that is very good
.

I have yet thought to add a few more modifications....

reagrds,
JOHN

TOnight I checked 3 stations for ethanol Content..
Shell had the highest amount around 12 %....sunoco around 10 % and the winner tonight was LUKoil with around 9 % ethano..

I take a tests tube...add a few inches of water...then add fuel
the original water line is a marked line....I shake up the tube
pretty good....then the ethanol will mix with water...the gas will not.....you will see the amounts after it settles in a minute or two..
Ill be buying LukOil for now...

JOHN

 

[ASTIGTOITS]

2004 SR-5 4x4 just hit 62K this past weekend. average 16 to 17 around town and 20 to 21 on hi-way.

 

[Climb14er]

Took my first long trip in the 2007 V8 Sport through the mountains of Colorado to the San Juan Mountains near Ridgway/Telluride for climbing the high peaks and averaged 20.35 MPG driving hard covering 825 miles.

The 4Runner was flawless at 3000 miles! :

 

[alaskaman]

Pics? That is a beautiful (I don't need to tell you) place...one of the docs that worked with me in the Navajo had a place at 11,000 feet....man that is living..

 

[Climb14er]

Pics? That is a beautiful (I don't need to tell you) place...one of the docs that worked with me in the Navajo had a place at 11,000 feet....man that is living..

Here are three in the Ridgway area, near Sneffels, Teakettle and Potosi mountains, all ranked Centennial peaks. These are views from the approach to and on/near the summits of Whitehouse and Ridgway Peaks, approx 13,500 ft.

 

[alaskaman]

~~now that is what I'm talkin about.!

Thanks man