Min-Lift for Clearance

[tj rider]

I have an 89 4runner. I am re-gearing to 4.88 and adding a rear locker. I want to put 33x10.5 BFG's under it. I want to do the ball Joint spacer kit and a new rear springs to get me off my bump stops (the OEM Springs are tired). I am not looking for crazy articulation or making this rig a crawler. I am just making it better equipped for the Colorado excursions I take it on like hunting. I already have a rock Crawler so that is not what I am going for on this rig. want to keep it road friendly to drive back and forth to work. I want to lift the rig the minimum but enough so I am not rubbing all of the time.

I've been doing a lot of reading on here including the official lift and tire thread. but it seems every one is across the board on this specific question. everything from no lift to you need 4-5" to get 33's under it. Keep in mind I am not going 12.50". So if this has been beat to death I apologize. I just wasn't getting a consistent answer on this with the reading I have been doing.

For the guys that have done this I am looking on rear spring suggestions (manufactures) and Ball Joint Spacer kit suggestions ( I see these on Ebay). I don't like body lifts so they are off the table for me.

Thanks

 

[KidVermicious]

Every truck is different, but you should be able to fit 33x10.5s at stock height with little to no rubbing. If you do end up contacting, a ball joint spacer (or a couple cranks of the torsion bar adjuster) and some pounding of the pinch seam in the wheel well should take care of it. If you want the real thing instead of a ripoff knockoff, get your ball joint spacer directly from 4Crawler or SDORI.

In back, a Zukmod coil between the bumpstops should serve you well, you don't need new springs. If you want new springs anyway, OME is a great option for minor lift with no mods necessary.

 

[tj rider]

Every truck is different, but you should be able to fit 33x10.5s at stock height with little to no rubbing. If you do end up contacting, a ball joint spacer (or a couple cranks of the torsion bar adjuster) and some pounding of the pinch seam in the wheel well should take care of it. If you want the real thing instead of a ripoff knockoff, get your ball joint spacer directly from 4Crawler or SDORI.

In back, a Zukmod coil between the bumpstops should serve you well, you don't need new springs. If you want new springs anyway, OME is a great option for minor lift with no mods necessary.

I appreciate your input. I will take your advice on the Ball Joint Spacer kit and go with a good manufacture. I have seen the Zukmod mentioned on here I will have to do more reading on it. I assumed it was for folks doing more of the rock crawler thing to get better articulation. So you are saying to use it in combination with my stock leafs?

Also there is add-a-leaf kits out there. I just need to stop the bone jarring bump of bottoming out at the slightest bump in the road. So I was assuming new springs and I was looking for something to match the 2'-2.5" Ball Joint kit I was looking at so I looked level and had more room for the 33's and provided a better ride.

 

[KidVermicious]

I appreciate your input. I will take your advice on the Ball Joint Spacer kit and go with a good manufacture. I have seen the Zukmod mentioned on here I will have to do more reading on it. I assumed it was for folks doing more of the rock crawler thing to get better articulation. So you are saying to use it in combination with my stock leafs?

Also there is add-a-leaf kits out there. I just need to stop the bone jarring bump of bottoming out at the slightest bump in the road. So I was assuming new springs and I was looking for something to match the 2'-2.5" Ball Joint kit I was looking at so I looked level and had more room for the 33's and provided a better ride.

The tallest ball joint spacer you'll find is a 1.5". Read the fine print on the 2.5" and it'll tell you that you have to get the other 1" from a torsion bar crank.

Add a leaf is an option, but your ride quality will suffer. The Zukmod isn't a rock crawler thing, it's a "I have a saggy bum and I'm broke" thing , and it works well. There's several different ways to do it, depending on how much lift you want and what your fab skills are. The no-cut with a 12" 125lb spring ought to get you about where you want to be.

 

[tj rider]

Kevin

I am intrigued with the Zuke Mod. I will do some reading. I have fairly decent Fab skills. I have make several Mods for my other rigs with my welder and tube bender. I would be good with the 1.5" I get from a Ball Joint spacer kit. If I need more then I can get the the 4lb sledge out. I might have more questions on the Zuke Mod. I will do some reading first. I really appreciate you giving me input.

I am new to the 4runner mods this is my first one. I am open to any and all suggestions.

Thanks

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

I assume you have a 22RE in there, just adding a bit for the gearing...

I run 4.88's in my truck with a 22RE. With 33's, it runs great with the speedo just a little on the high side, but mainly run 35's and the speedo is spot-on.

With a solid engine and headers/cam/intake upgrade (mine's an '87 with 89+ intake mod), you should see good power and decent mileage.

I get around 19-22mpg with this setup on the highway on long road trips, and in town if I'm beating on it a bit, 17mpg.

As for the lift, a bit of cranking on the torsions will get you to clear it, but any articulation will get them rubbing with 33x10.50's, although the torsion crank will stiffen the front up quite a bit, so expect your articulation to be pretty bad.

 

[tj rider]

Yes it is a 22RE.

Earlier it was mentioned that an Add a leaf will cause the ride quality to suffer. Is it because it makes the spring pack to stiff and then it rides Rough? The Zukmod is another route.

Maybe I should bite the bullet and get new rear springs. I think with all of the suggestions I will do the 1.5" Ball Joint Spacer Kit and hammer down the pinch weld and see if I can live with the occasional rubbing. I may find I need to do more later but I think I will start there. Unless you see a major issue from what I am suggesting. I am new to the 4runners .

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Well, I'd second the OME springs, and add that you should not ever, EVER (!!!!!!) get superlift springs for the rear! I can't stand the ones I have now, they are way too stiff and just suck overall.

I think you're on the right track, hammering the pinchwelds and going with new leafs in the rear. Try turning the torsions up an extra inch (measure to fenders, then crank 'em up an extra inch), take it for a drive and see if you notice the difference in stiffness/bounciness. You'll have to get an alignment after you do, but I'd try it and drive around for a few miles before getting the alignment. It'll pull you a bit without the alignment, but you won't hurt anything if you try it for a few miles or so. 20+ miles and you'll probably wear the tires a bit from being out of whack, but if you're changing the tires anyways, you're not really losing anything!

This won't cost you anything but a few minutes under the truck to get the torsions turned, and you can put it back to where it was if you don't like it!

 

[richiegrich]

I was in the same boat as you, didnt want to make my truck a crawler, just a weekend warrior. I did a 2.5 inch lift with the spacers and have no rubbing issues with bfg 32's.it was a pain in the ass getting those spacers in so be prepared with a grinder. rides great now!