Misfire investigation. HELP

4runnertank

4runnertank

New member
So I've had this misfire for almost two years now, ever since I got the new engine put in. Originally it wasn't that bad and didn't really bother me. I've replaced a ton of stuff like the spark plugs, wires, dist. cap, dist. rotor, coil, whole damn mass airflow sensor (before the new engine-ran fine with it), O2 sensor, Cat, engine ground wire, and probably a few other things. And still didn't fix it.

2 Fridays ago I was putting in a new spotlight bulb and accidentally mixed up the ground and the live wire.. stupid, I know. The wire was only connected for maybe 3 seconds, but it got EXTREMELY hot and killed my two overhead lights, and clock. Problem was there were no blown fuses that I could find. So i took it for a spin that night and the thing was sputtering REAL bad when I would accelerate. Could feel the misfire real bad, with a jerkiness feel in the whole truck.

Any ideas for what I could have done to the truck that would make it mis like that? I'm definitely thinking it's something electrical, but don't know what it could be at this point besides a fried wire or ground in the harness. Problem is, I am terrible with electronics, lucky me.

If you have an idea, would my situation make sense? And why would it do it in the first place?

Here's a video of what it sounded like idling so you can get a feel for how it sounds-2012-09-08_14-22-53_907.mp4 video by 4runnertank - Photobucket

Thanks in advance
 
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I would also start with a set of OEM wires. Sounds like you have covered a lot of the electrical.

Have you checked your fuel pressure and replaced the filter?
 
I had that same Gremlin. I changed out the ECM and my problem went away. My local LKQ u-pull-it salvage yard charged me $50.00. Passenger side rt kick panel.
 
Pyroboy said:
I would also start with a set of OEM wires. Sounds like you have covered a lot of the electrical.

Have you checked your fuel pressure and replaced the filter?
Click to expand...

Aren't oem wires super expensive? Can I just dig into them and look for bad wires?

and no I haven't touched the filter or checked pressure. It's electrical so I feel like if it were fuel it would be a relay, or fuse for the pump rather than the filter itself. And also, it is running RICH i believe.

bills86e said:
I had that same Gremlin. I changed out the ECM and my problem went away. My local LKQ u-pull-it salvage yard charged me $50.00. Passenger side rt kick panel.
Click to expand...

So i may have fried the actual computer? Why just the passenger side board, what is on it that would effect it?

4runnin83 said:
Had a similar issue before, ended up being one of the injectors.
Click to expand...

I thought about that originally. But my "sparky" incident with heatin up them wires must play a part in this. Possible it could of screwed up the connection to the injector or somethin?


And Footofgod wasn't yours a timing issue? And I've had 3 different types of plugs and wires, 1 being OEM. I've ruled that out I think.

Gimme some more Ideas guys. I'm not gunna replace something just because it "could" be the problem, i've dumped enough money doing that. If it could be something, I wanna make sure it makes sense with MY experience. I don't believe in coincidence when it comes to trucks!

And can I pull codes to figure anything out?
 
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4runnertank said:
Aren't oem wires super expensive?

And Footofgod wasn't yours a timing issue? And I've had 3 different types of plugs and wires, 1 being OEM. I've ruled that out I think.
Click to expand...


Not exactly. When I got it all back together and had the mechanical and ignition timing right was when I had the problem like yours. Turned out it was just bad wires. The parts store special wires fell apart every time I touched them during the whole mud fiasco.

Advanced auto let me exchange them for the Denso and I ended up paying $38. I think off the shelf they were $59.
 
Can I pull codes to find anything out? I think it has to do with the injectors honestly. Could i possibly fry an injector itself, or the wiring for it? New injectors might be a good idea soon anyways.
 
I did have the Advanced Auto store wires. They sucked. I think the brand was Xact Fit. Replaced with Denso.

Auto Zone has testing lights you can borrow to check the injectors.
 
im assuming you already checked your compression and leak down and adjusted your tps i couldnt find my 3.slow misfire for a long time dealer couldnt find it ether,, ended up being the igniter (kinda the only veritable that cant be tested)
 
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snow junky said:
im assuming you already checked your compression and leak down and adjusted your tps i couldnt find my 3.slow misfire for a long time dealer couldnt find it ether,, ended up being the igniter (kinda the only veritable that cant be tested)
Click to expand...

No i haven't checked the compression. It's a 2 year old engine that was brand new and I know it's something electrical. As far as the igniter, I have not changed it. I've never heard of the ignitor "kinda" working like mine tho. Usually it's good or bad.

Again, can I pull codes for this?
 
Is your check engine light on?

If your sure your plugs/cap/rotor/wires and ignitor are ok, I would look into to finding a replacement ecm.
 
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If it's anything like the 22re, you jump the timing ports with a paperclip, turn the key to on (not crank), and count the flashes. Googling "3vze trouble codes" gets lots of hits.

Absolutely you should pull codes, even if your check engine light isn't illuminated. You may not have any stored, but there's only one way to find out...
 
Well i checked the timing belt and it was off a tooth... Moved it all back to 10 degrees tdc and fixed the misfire. but when I went to go take it for a spin it would barely accelerate at all, super super sluggish even worse than before. No more misfire at all but I am also hearing a lot more back-pressure sounds coming from the exhaust when the rpm's go down. It aslo takes a little more time to start when I turn the key. Any ideas? Fuel filter time?
 
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