Mojave Mad Man's - Multi Use - Build Thread

MojaveMadMan

MojaveMadMan

New member
First of all thanks for checkin out my build. As is customary I will give a little background about myself, plans for the build, and then you know what follows.

I have been in a Toyota since I was 16. Started with my 89 single cab 4wd. Then a 99 Tacoma single cab 2wd. Then some other crap, then back in a 97 Tacoma extra cab 2wd. Then some more crap, then an 02 Tacoma extra cab 4wd. Then I got my wife an 05 4runner 2wd which we love and still have. Then I got an 07 Tacoma 4wd OR edition, which has been my favorite so far. Unfortunately I had to sacrifice that one in order for us to buy our 1st house. Drove a 95 civic around for 2 years, and now we are here!!! I got me a 97 4runner, 4wd limited!!! I am very excited about this one. I could have got a few things and specifically landed in a 3rd gen with you great people. I wanted something I wouldn't feel bad about building and using, and it needed to fit my growing family in it. Besides my wife we have a twp bays 3 and under 1, so I knew this was the right fit of comfort and performance at a very nice price!!!

I am in the US Air Force, been in for 8 years now. Before that I was a welder and fabricator, working 10 years professionally in San Diego building sand cars and off road race cars all the way from class 5 VW's to Class 1 unlimited cars, Trophy Trucks, and short course trucks. I have worked for some big and small shops.

Ok so onto the build. I am building my 4runner to be what I would consider being a jack of all trades. It isn’t a rock lobster, but I want it to be able to handle the rocks. It isn’t a pre-runner, but I want it to be able to handle some speed. It isn’t an expo rig, but I want to be able to go the distance. It isn’t a dooms day machine, but I want to be able to mow down some zombies (haha). I want this thing to have a bit of everything. Ultimately I want this thing to be suited for long multi day camping trips that encompass everything from fire roads, to some rock sections. I want it to be able to do a good job handling moderate terrain of all kinds, but not a pro at anything if that makes sense. Coming from the baja racing back ground I like to drive fast when I can, but I don’t expect to hit the whoop sections at 80 mph in this thing. I also want to consider this a good get out of dodge vehicle, able to handle multiple scenarios if needed. Yes I do believe in being prepared, not like the guys on TV though, haha. But most important, is safety. I want to have my wife and son in this rig alongside with me and not have to worry about their safety when in this thing.

So here is what I got
-1997 Toyota 4runner
-Limited Edition with Tan Interior
-4wd, Auto w/ Factory E-Locker
-150K on the clock when I picked it up

So here is the obligatory stock picture:


And the current picture.


Here are the current and future build specs:

Maintenance:
- Knock Sensors – Autozone
- Knock Sensor Harness – Toyota
- Bottom intake Gaskets – Toyota
- Rear Brake Shoes – NAPA
- Rear Break Drum Turning – NAPA
- Rear Inner Axle Seals – NAPA
- Rear Outer Axle Seals – NAPA
- Rear Wheel Bearings and rings – NAPA
- Rear Wheel Bearing Pressing – NAPA
- PCV Valve – Toyota
- Fuel Filter – Toyota
- L/R Lower Ball Joints – Toyota
- Plugs and wires – Amazon
- Outer Tie Rods - Toyota
- CV Rebuild Kits - Toyota

Engine:
- Stock
- Might add a super charger, this will be one of the last mods

Transmission/Transfer Case:
- Stock Transmission
- Want to upgraded the valve body if I do a super charger
- B&M Transmission Cooler 70268 – Amazon
- Mobil One 75W-90 Gear Oil Swap in Transfer Case – Amazon

Front and Rear Differentials:
- Lucas 85W-140 Gear Oil Front and Rear – NAPA
- Stock Front Diff
- Want to add an ARB Air Locker
- Stock Rear Diff
- Blue Wire Mod
- Diff Breather Extension Mod – Various
- Will re-gear to match new tire size

Front Suspension:
- Sonoran Steel 1.2 Kit - Tundra 5100's and Tundra Coils
- All Pro Upper Control Arms
- Wheelers Poly Rack Bushings
- Wheelers Brake Lines
- Tundra 13WL brake upgrade - Toyota and NAPA parts

Rear Suspension:
- Sonoran Steel 1.2 Kit (kind of)
- ToyTech Super Flex Coils (may put 7 wraps back on, not sure)
- Want custom made upper and lower links with hiems and OEM bushings
- Want custom track bar with heims on both sides, and custom mounts on the frame

Interior:
- Scan Gauge II – Amazon
- 99+ Radio Bezel – Nissanh
- 99+ Center Console - Ebay
- GT Leather Seat Covers - CL
- Want Weather Tech Floor Liners

Electrical:
- Big 3 Mod – Various
- Custom 3D Printed Switch Panel (file from Bandit Runner)
- 10 Contra 5 LED Switches - OTRATTW
- Cadillac Alternator Upgrade - NAPA
- Bussman Distribution Block w/ 5 relays and 10 fuses, all weather tight - Waytek
- Unidin CB Radio w/ 4' Firestyk Antenna - Amazon
- Want Die Hard deep cell battery

Lighting:
- Three "NAPA" 7" HID Lights on front bumper - Amazon
- Four 3" CREE LED Light bars, 2 on front bumper, 2 on rear bumper - Amazon
- Rigid Dome Light mounted on rear swing out for cocking table - Amazon
- Eight Amber single optical lights for blinkers - Amazon
- Four white single optical lights mounted in rear door for lighting - Amazon

Tires and Wheels:
- 285/75R16 Goodyear Duratracs - Discount Tire
- SCS F5 Matte Bronze Wheels - 16" x 8" w/ 3.5" back spacing

Recovery/Armor:
- "High Lift" or shall I say Farm JAck mounted on rear bumper with handle mount and cover - Harbor Frieght
- 3" Tow Strap
- Custom front plate/tube hybrid bumper (this is the build thread)
- Custom rear plate/tube hybrid bumper with swing out that carries full size spare, 5 Gallon scepter Can and has a fold down cooking table

Storage:
- None yet, but I have plans for a low profile drawer system
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
So here is the start of the build! This was in Valencia, CA. I was stationed in CA before NM. I picked this thing up in the getto down in Los Angeles for $4000. It had a CEL, and the guy had mentioned he had some charging problems he fixed with a new battery and alternator, and he had recently done some alignment work and put new struts on (Monroe…). So I picked it up and first thing on the agenda was the CEL. In CA you cannot title a vehicle until you smog it, and of course you can’t pass smog with a CEL.

So I got the code read and it was a knock sensor. I did some digging on here and found out most of the time it is the wiring harness, not the sensor itself. So I went to Toyota, got a new harness for $40 I think, along with new L/R intake manifold gaskets, $50 each, a PCV valve while I was at it, an air filter, and coolant. Here are some pictures of the FIRST tear down.





Old harness, it was definitely crusty!



And the new one.



While I was in there I also checked the timing belt to see if it had been replaced. It looked like it had, because it was not a factory Toyota belt anymore. So it was good to know that was done. I checked the condition of the belt and timing and everything was right on. Getting that wire in there is a pain in the butt. You have to remove the timing belt in order to remove one of the guide pulleys in order to route the wire… But hey, I got it done, curb side no less.

So I got it all back together and all was well. For about 10 miles… then the CEL came back on, for you guessed it, the knock sensor. A lot of people were saying that 9 out of 10 times it’s the wire, and mine was bad, but it wasn’t the whole problem. The real bummer is I even tested the sensor per FSM guidance, and it bench tested good. So I did a little more digging, found out that Autozone sells real factory replacements (same manufacturer), so I got a new knock sensor for I believe $80, tore it back down (accept the timing belt this time thank god), and put in the new sensor. This thankfully fixed the CEL, I got it smoged and titled and all was good!

After that I drove it around very little. I was driving 160 miles a day for work in my beater civic (we moved in with some family a few months before our move to NM), and we were getting ready for our move. Then the day finally came. Here is a fun picture of the 4runner all loaded up and ready for the move!!!



Also snapped this picture at some point in CA, I thought it was cool…

 
So the next thing was the drive from CA to NM. All went well with zero issues. Started daily driving this pig and it was doing good. I was eager to get moving on this thing, I had it for about 5 months at this point and hadn’t been able to do much to it. I spent a lot of time trying to decide how I wanted to approach the build on this thing. Do I buy some of the fun stuff and fix problems as they come, or put in some ground work so I can have less drama down the line. I decided after much internal debate that I need to get this thing leveled out first, so maintenance first. Doesn’t make for an exciting build thread at first, but I want this thing to be super reliable.

First thing was the plugs and wires. No pics, but it’s not like you need any knocked those out in 20 min. I had already done an oil change in CA with Mobile 1 synthetic so I felt good about some of the basic maintenance stuff it this point. Next on the list was to address some of the issues. The driver side axle seal was leaking, I don’t have a picture, but the back side of the brakes was covered in oil and it looked like it had been that way a while, a lot of old dirt and gunk. So I knew it was time for at least inner seals. Thanks to [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] for the great write up, I was able to pull everything apart very easy and check it all out. Once I got it apart I noticed the wheel bearings were border line so I decided to go ahead and do those as well. It was all straight forward, and BFAD’s write up was super detailed, nothing more to note other than a tire iron for changing dirt bike tires works well for popping out inner seals as well!

A few shots:




Went ahead and did the brakes while I was at it. Also shot the brake drums with some semi-gloss black. Perfect color, it looks like new stock, but not over done (I don’t like flashy brakes).





I chose to use Lucas 85W-140 standard gear oil. I did a lot of reading on this subject, comparing standard gear oil vs. synthetic. It really seems like you can go either way, I ended up choosing the conventional oil because it is what one of the bigger companies uses in all their diff’s and I figure they know better than I. Plus I wanted to go standard and a little heavy because I don’t want more leaky oil seals. The thinner synthetic seems to sneak out a lot easier and I wanted a nice tight seal.
 
Next on the list was the Big 3, also done using BFAD’s write up. I had washed my engine a week ago and somehow I got something wet and it caused the 4runner to not start, then after it dried out, it would start, but I was getting ABS and Charging lights… Then when it sat overnight something was drawing from the battery, and it died… After jumping the 4runner in the morning I did some voltage tests and the alternator was working great. I tested the battery myself and it seemed a little suspect so I took it to Sears and had it tested. I was ready to replace with a Die Hard Deep Cell but it tested good after a good charge and load test so I opted to just wait on buying a new battery. I put it back in and the 4runner had no issues for a few days so I figured it was just me sticking the hose in a poorly picked spot. While I was diagnosing the problem I did however notice that there was some corrosion on some of the main wires and I decided that I should go ahead and do the Big 3 now so that I can avoid some future problems, and so I would be prepared for future mods. Again I didn’t take many pictures because BFAD has a great write up. Here are a few finished shots.







I also put my Scan Gauge II on before I did the Big 3. I don’t have a before shot, it was pulling about 13.5 volts at idle. Now with the addition of the Big 3 it sits at 14.3 volts at idle.

 
This brings us up to date for the most part. I got quite a few other parts sitting on the work bench ready to go in when I find time (wife and kiddo keep me busy). Here is the list of what still needs to be done.

- Front Diff Fluid Change – Lucas 85W-140
- Transfer Case Fluid Change – Mobile One 75W-90 full synthetic
- B&M Transmission Cooler - Removing the stock cooler for now (until I get a new radiator)
- L/R Lower Ball Joints – Toyota Parts Barn
- Rear Diff Breather Extension – Going to run into the fuel door as the write-ups on here show
- Blue Wire Mod – This will happen one day soon, it’s simple and I just haven’t got to it yet

Also I forgot to mention I did a couple small things, new fuel filter from Toyota. I also removed the running boards, which is always a fun transformation to see.



Here are my parts that are patiently waiting for use…





And last, my next project I am working on. Can anyone guess???

 
Got some time to work on the 4runner this weekend! Got to knock a few things off my list.

First was new LBJ's. Had a pair sitting on the bench so it was time to put them on! Nothing spectacular here, it is all very straight forward work. got everything together, and put high strength lock tight on the four spindle bolts. Picture for fun, it's a crappy one, sorry...



Next was the diff breather mod. Again this one was very straight forward. Ran the line up into the gas cap area and zip tied it to the hose. No pictures of this one as there are plenty out there.

Last was a bigger project for me, as I am not a wiring guy. I did the 99+ radio bezel conversion. I know for many this is just a "for looks mod" which it is, but it also serves another purpose for me. I have a 3D printed switch housing (designed by [MENTION=12884]Bandit[/MENTION]Runner) that I am installing. It is designed for the 99+ bezel, so I needed to make the conversion to run this custom housing.

I used this guide below to do all the wiring conversions. Great guide and allowed a wiring dunce like me to get through the job. It is partially done. I wired up the ETC button, window switch, and hazard lights. I did not do the rear defrost, but I do plan on it. He hadn't figured it out in his guide, and I didn't have time to experiment with it yet. I also didn't wire in the two new accessory plugs that the 99+ bezel holds. I will wire these in when I run the wiring for all my switches. I want them ran interdependently to a fuse block and connected to the battery so I can run all three plugs at once without popping a fuse (as some have issues with when splicing into the single stock outlet). I did have one snag. I re-pinned the hazard plug as described, but I must have mixed something up, because my hazards and blinkers don't work... I need to check my fuses, and then re-check my pins to make sure I did it right. I didn't notice until after everything was together, and I am out of time for the weekend. All in all it wasn't too bad of a mod, and I am happy so far. Just need to finish a few things and it will be perfect. Here are a couple pictures. One of the re-pinning, and one of my solder/heat shrink job. I was proud of myself since this is something I don't normally mess with.

Write-up by [MENTION=78909]alexb[/MENTION] : http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/114346-how-99-center-dash-conversion-wiring.html



Here are the wires before I wrapped them all up with electrical tape.



Finished product for now. I need to have my friend mail me the switch housing he printed for me!

 
Small update. Got my blinkers working. Just had to mirror the diagram in the bezel thread and everything is working good now.

And the fun news, got my plasma cutting today. Ready to build me some sliders in the next couple weeks. I need to find someone who can bend some tubing for me here in ABQ. But I will able to at least to the main tube and all the legs. More the come on that. Here are the brackets I had made!

 
One of every ones favorite updates, new tires! Got some 285/75R16's from Discount tire. Original price was $220 a tire but I got them to price match 4Wheelparts.com at $190 a tire. Couldn't beat that! Went for Falkens, ended up with Goodyears for only $60 more bucks.

Here they are, no lift on factory wheels.


As you can guess, at stock height there are some rubbing issues. It rolls down the road straight with no issues, but as soon as you turn in or out of an inclined driveway like I have, you get some sweet rubbing. I don't plan on lifting this thing more than 1" when I get my suspension re-worked, so I needed to do some cutting. Plus, I want this thing to clear at full bump with no rubbing so trimming is a must either way. So out came the knife, the angle grinder and the welder.

Took the shocks off and stuffed the tire, a lot of contact once you start to turn the wheel left or right.



First thing was to trim away some of the plastic on the inner fender and limited flares. That was all I needed in the front, I have about 1/2" clearance up there now.







The rear side of the fender well was a different story. I cut and tried, about 3 times until I got it where I wanted. It is still very close, but only at full bump and full turn does it get close. As soon as it straightens out just a little bit, I get good spacing. This took a lot of slow and carefull cutting. There are a lot of wires in this area so I had to really plan each cut. Once I got all the metal and plastic cut out though, it was a great fit. I was only able to get my drivers side done this weekend, I ran out of welding wire and gas this morning, and well, there is no welding supply place open on a Sunday. Here are a few shots!





All finished up. I used some 1/8" plate I had in my garage. Some 16 gauge would have been great, but there is nothing wrong with a little extra meat. Slow welding, the body is very thin, and the coatings they use like to catch on fire very easily... scary stuff when your car is on fire a little bit, haha. It was all in control!



Here is a shot of some of the stuff I cut away. A lot of the metal was in small sections at a time, so that's not pictured.



Also not pictured is the alternator upgrade I did. Gotta love the Scan Gauge!!! I was able to see that the cheap Autozone alternator the PO put in was starting to go bad. I had just done the Big 3 a few weeks ago and was getting strong voltage. Then about 3 weeks later, after about every other start, my voltage would drop to around 11 or so. I drove it like that for about a week then decided to just go ahead and get a new one and not mess around. Because I plan on running a lot of electrical extras on this thing, I only wanted to do this once. So I looked on here and found some good write-ups on the Cadillac alternator upgrade and went for it. I got a new (not remand) alternator from Napa, got the wiring harness adapter, and in it went. Fairly straight forward. Was able to bolt it right in and use the same belt. Cut a spacer from some extra tubing I had laying around and even painted the spacer black for good measure. I will add a picture later, but it's nothing exciting, haha.
 
Nice work on the rig, Chris. I've been following the bumper build thread and it's looking awesome. Great lines, and great clearance... I'm looking forward to seeing the tube work.

Once you get it all wrapped up, it would be cool to check it out in person.
 
BigFishAllDay said:
Nice work on the rig, Chris. I've been following the bumper build thread and it's looking awesome. Great lines, and great clearance... I'm looking forward to seeing the tube work.

Once you get it all wrapped up, it would be cool to check it out in person.
Click to expand...

Thank you much for the good words!! I'm inching my way there. I drew up some plans for a custom bender and stand based off of the Got Trikes plans. I am having the parts laser cut in CA and my in laws are driving the stuff out in 2 weeks. That's a whole different project, but it gets me where I need to be to finish this bumper. Also got a 1.5" die in the mail! So hopefully I will have all my tube work done by the end of May.

You can def check out the rig in person! I want to see yours too so that would be cool. I still haven't really been in much dirt here in ABQ so it would be fun to meet up for a run too... Haha. I missed the TW Adventure Series one because I was in CA for a wedding...
 
Been working on the bumper a lot lately with all my free time. Check the bumper thread if interested. Did find a moment to paint my wheels though, haha. They are painted a metalic dark greay to match my limited body cladding. Honestly I don't like the color, but it matches and looks decent for the time being. I will replace the wheels one day or another... So expensive just for looks... I would rather buy some new shocks or something, haha.

 
Finally got this thing out in the dirt! It's been a little difficult finding people to go with in a new place, but I finally got it figured out. Had a fun little run outside of ABQ. I am very impressed with this rig. There was only one obsticle I couldn't climb and I am sure it was drivers error as I am not a rock guy. Everything else I climbed right up with zero issues. My rear tires are rubbing the limited mud flaps pritty good, and I had a couple small rubs in the front I need to track down so I can get them taken care of. Again, very happy with the 4runner. I was happy I went with one and this just re-affirmed it for me.

Few quick cheesy pics I snapped with my phone.






 
So it's been 2.5 months since I posted an update. Things have been on hold for us as we were in the process of selling our house in CA and needed to buckle down for a little bit. But now as that is wrapping up I am finally able to get back at it.

Here are a few things that will be in the works the next 4 months
- Finish front bumper - Needs a skid plate, and lower skid made
- Sliders - I need to build these, I have all the plates ready, just need tubing and time
- Wiring - I am no good at wiring, but want to do a top notch job. I have my switch housing, I need switches and relays and I want to try and do this as professional as possible. I have to at least wire up my front bumper lights and I want to set everything else up so as I get parts in, I just plug and play
- Rear Bumper - I am going to start work on my rear bumper/tire carrier
- Roll Cage - This will be last, I want to do something either in the cargo area, or maybe all the way up. This will be more of a "sport" cage, so it will be bolt in and won't be as crazy as a full time off-roader. I want the added protection for my family, but with them in the rig, we won't ever be getting crazy.

And the funnest one, and the one that is happening soonest, I ordered 5 new wheels and will be doing the Tundra brake upgrade! I talked to Vin at SCS yesterday and ordered up 5 of his F-5 wheels in matte bronze! They are the 16" x 8" wheels with 3.5" back spacing. I choose these for a few reasons. First is that I hate wheel spacers, I have tried them a few times and never been happy with them. With the 3.5" back spacing I get a wider stance without having to use spacers. Second, they are a 16" x 8" wheel which is also a requirement. I just got new tires so I wasn't about to order larger wheels, nor do I really like larger wheels. Third, these will allow me to do the Tundra brake upgrade. My brakes are squeaking and are kind of weak. So if a brake job needs to be done, it would be a waste to put 4runner stuff back on. Forth, these are some great looking wheels and I have always wanted bronze wheels. I told myself I wouldn't buy wheels just for looks and would only do it when I needed to, and now I have a reason so I bought some good looking ones, haha. And last, Vin at SCS is a top notch guy and his customer service was 10 out of 10!!! New wheels should be here Friday, very excited. Tundra brakes to follow. Here is a pic courtesy of Vin.

 
Right on, Chris! Glad to see you get moving on the build again. I guess we'll have to get together this fall and bend some tube now that you've got the house thing wrapped up. Regarding the F-5's, nice buy! Those are some sweet wheels. But I have to ask... why didn't you just by Nate's set?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-4runner-picture-gallery-517.html#post1775675

I'm guessing you didn't know he was going to be selling them. That would have worked out great though, being that both of you are here in NM.

I'm really looking forward to seeing what you come up with for a rear bumper/tire carrier, and the roll cage, too!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

2TH4IST
2TH4IST's, Forrest's adventures and things.
2
Replies
31
Views
49K
spartacus
spartacus
T
3rd Gen Rear Diff compatibility information?
Replies
5
Views
2K
triangles
T
KwonRunner
FS: 4th Gen 2008 Toyota 4Runner V6 4WD – 194K – Modified – $25,900 OBO – NorCal
Replies
0
Views
114
KwonRunner
KwonRunner
rpjtremblay
FOR SALE, OG 5th Gen 2013 4Runner Limited Overland Build, $22.5k, New Jersey
Replies
0
Views
2K
rpjtremblay
rpjtremblay
Fiffa
FS: 3rd Gen 4Runner Limited, Vancouver, WA, $13k OBO
Replies
2
Views
3K
Fiffa
Fiffa

Members online

Total: 365 (members: 4, guests: 361)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,056
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top