More about wheels!

Sup41

New member
Ok got another question...this time regarding wheels.

So I lifted the truck with the 3" rock country basic suspension lift. Now I want to install 33's. The highest rec for this lift is 31's so I am assuming i'll have to do some cutting.

Here is my question: my local offload shop guy made the comment that i'll want to find wheels that "come farther out" ? What does this mean and what wheels will do that? Also...how did it work for anyone here with 33's? Lots of cutting and banging? Any particular success with a certain wheel and tire?

Thank you!! Will post pics soon
 
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Ok got another question...this time regarding wheels.

So I lifted the truck with the 3" rock country basic suspension lift. Now I want to install 33's. The highest rec for this lift is 31's so I am assuming i'll have to do some cutting.

Here is my question: my local offload shop guy made the comment that i'll want to find wheels that "come farther out" ? What does this mean and what wheels will do that? Also...how did it work for anyone here with 33's? Lots of cutting and banging? Any particular success with a certain wheel and tire?

Thank you!! Will post pics soon
What's your goal? Mud or sand? Hard pack mountain road? Just look cool? Fat or skinny?

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 
Ok got another question...this time regarding wheels.

So I lifted the truck with the 3" rock country basic suspension lift. Now I want to install 33's. The highest rec for this lift is 31's so I am assuming i'll have to do some cutting.

Here is my question: my local offload shop guy made the comment that i'll want to find wheels that "come farther out" ? What does this mean and what wheels will do that? Also...how did it work for anyone here with 33's? Lots of cutting and banging? Any particular success with a certain wheel and tire?

Thank you!! Will post pics soon

With a 2" lift I ran 265/75/16's (31.6x10.4, most people call 32s) on some 16x8 wheels with zero offset. All I had to do was hammer flat my pinch welds and trim my inner fender liner a little bit and it was good. I added 1.25" spacers and got terrible rubbing on the driver side anytime I was turning and hit a bump on the road, forget about offroad.

Later a went to a 3" up front and ran a 285/75r16 Duratrac (normally a 32.8x11.2 but the duratracs actually measure 33.1" on the diameter). I had zero issues rubbing up front. I added 1" spacers and had to do a little more trimming/pounding on the pinch welds/firewall to clear without scrubbing. They still do feather the firewall/right at the driver dead pedal if I'm completely stuffing the tire and turning.


You have to be a little careful with going too far out with the offset. Unless you get aftermarket UCAs to push the caster forward, you're going to have to have clearance issues with the firewall. On the flip side, if you go too narrow, think factory 16x7s with 285s you're going to possibly have issues clearing the UCA with the sidewall of the tire.

Long story short, if you go with 33s (285/75r16) you should be ok with 16x8s with zero offset, or if you have factory 16x7s, add some spidertrax 1.25/1.50" spacers (or other good quality hub centric spacer) and you should be ok. You still may have to do minor trimming/pounding. [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] just did a pretty good writeup on this I think.

Another option would be tall skinnies. 255/75r16 is a true 32" and 255/85r16 is a true 33". You'll get a little better MPG with these. Gives it a little bit of a military look. You can sometimes find some CHEAP BFG KMs (not km2s) as factory take offs on rubicon in the 32"s. I had some for a little while, Under did too, he might still be. I had zero complaints about them when I did have them, I just wanted to bump up to a true 33" and go with something a little wider.
 
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With a 2" lift I ran 265/75/16's (31.6x10.4, most people call 32s) on some 16x8 wheels with zero offset. All I had to do was hammer flat my pinch welds and trim my inner fender liner a little bit and it was good. I added 1.25" spacers and got terrible rubbing on the driver side anytime I was turning and hit a bump on the road, forget about offroad.

Later a went to a 3" up front and ran a 285/75r16 Duratrac (normally a 32.8x11.2 but the duratracs actually measure 33.1" on the diameter). I had zero issues rubbing up front. I added 1" spacers and had to do a little more trimming/pounding on the pinch welds/firewall to clear without scrubbing. They still do feather the firewall/right at the driver dead pedal if I'm completely stuffing the tire and turning.


You have to be a little careful with going too far out with the offset. Unless you get aftermarket UCAs to push the caster forward, you're going to have to have clearance issues with the firewall. On the flip side, if you go too narrow, think factory 16x7s with 285s you're going to possibly have issues clearing the UCA with the sidewall of the tire.

Long story short, if you go with 33s (285/75r16) you should be ok with 16x8s with zero offset, or if you have factory 16x7s, add some spidertrax 1.25/1.50" spacers (or other good quality hub centric spacer) and you should be ok. You still may have to do minor trimming/pounding. [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] just did a pretty good writeup on this I think.

Another option would be tall skinnies. 255/75r16 is a true 32" and 255/85r16 is a true 33". You'll get a little better MPG with these. Gives it a little bit of a military look. You can sometimes find some CHEAP BFG KMs (not km2s) as factory take offs on rubicon in the 32"s. I had some for a little while, Under did too, he might still be. I had zero complaints about them when I did have them, I just wanted to bump up to a true 33" and go with something a little wider.

I just put on a OME 3" lift with 285/75/16's on 16x8 with 4" BS and had to beat the pinch welds, take the fender liners out, and the drivers side rubs on the drivers side a little with the steering turned left to full stop. I can't trim anymore due to the body mount... if that helps you at all.
 
With a 2" lift I ran 265/75/16's (31.6x10.4, most people call 32s) on some 16x8 wheels with zero offset. All I had to do was hammer flat my pinch welds and trim my inner fender liner a little bit and it was good. I added 1.25" spacers and got terrible rubbing on the driver side anytime I was turning and hit a bump on the road, forget about offroad.

Later a went to a 3" up front and ran a 285/75r16 Duratrac (normally a 32.8x11.2 but the duratracs actually measure 33.1" on the diameter). I had zero issues rubbing up front. I added 1" spacers and had to do a little more trimming/pounding on the pinch welds/firewall to clear without scrubbing. They still do feather the firewall/right at the driver dead pedal if I'm completely stuffing the tire and turning.


You have to be a little careful with going too far out with the offset. Unless you get aftermarket UCAs to push the caster forward, you're going to have to have clearance issues with the firewall. On the flip side, if you go too narrow, think factory 16x7s with 285s you're going to possibly have issues clearing the UCA with the sidewall of the tire.

Long story short, if you go with 33s (285/75r16) you should be ok with 16x8s with zero offset, or if you have factory 16x7s, add some spidertrax 1.25/1.50" spacers (or other good quality hub centric spacer) and you should be ok. You still may have to do minor trimming/pounding. [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] just did a pretty good writeup on this I think.

Another option would be tall skinnies. 255/75r16 is a true 32" and 255/85r16 is a true 33". You'll get a little better MPG with these. Gives it a little bit of a military look. You can sometimes find some CHEAP BFG KMs (not km2s) as factory take offs on rubicon in the 32"s. I had some for a little while, Under did too, he might still be. I had zero complaints about them when I did have them, I just wanted to bump up to a true 33" and go with something a little wider.

Here's my post about my pinch weld mod without having to cut up the fender liners. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...d-2001-toyota-4runner-4x4-38.html#post2701069

I'm not running the BFG KMs anymore. After buying the tires, driving on them for 50k miles, and selling them with remaining tread I only paid $10 for the set of tires...

That said they're pretty good tires, but they leave something to be desired as far as wet handling goes. I'm running 255/80/17 ST MAXXs now and they're perfect so far. Much better wet handling (I've yet to be able to get them loose in the wet, and I've been trying) and they're amazingly quiet. Like I couldn't believe the difference. I'm running these tires, stock fifth gen wheels, and 1.25" spacers. I had a little rubbing, but after the pinch weld mod I haven't rubbed since.
 
Another option would be tall skinnies. 255/75r16 is a true 32" and 255/85r16 is a true 33". You'll get a little better MPG with these. Gives it a little bit of a military look. You can sometimes find some CHEAP BFG KMs (not km2s) as factory take offs on rubicon in the 32"s. I had some for a little while, Under did too, he might still be. I had zero complaints about them when I did have them, I just wanted to bump up to a true 33" and go with something a little wider.

I def like the look of these. I know there are a million guides out there on tire definitions, but could you remind me what the 255 number is and 75? Does this basically translate to a less fat but taller tire?

You think i'd have to do more / less / same cutting with these?

Also, are you saying 16/8 is gonna be the magic number?
 
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What's your goal? Mud or sand? Hard pack mountain road? Just look cool? Fat or skinny?

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

I've got three goals: Deep Baja for surf, Nor Cal for hunting / surf, and make my car look less goofy because I vastly underestimated the actual height of a 3" lift

:faint2:

Who knew 3" on 265's would look this funny.....
 
Download the Tire Calculator Pro app. I use it all the time when researching tires. I would live to give more info but I'm on a tight schedule and real poor coverage.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 

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