Mount Chop Mod Necessary?

eRock_runner

New member
Hey Guys just read up on the Mount Chop Mod and I wanted to make sure it was absolutely necessary to do if going to an aftermarket wheel and bigger tires.

I'm just waiting for the SCS SR8's to be back in stock and will be ordering the 17x8.5 and am going with Toyo Open Country AT2 275/70/17.

Are there better tires to look into that would let me avoid the Mount Chop Mod?

Thanks!
 
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Hey Guys just read up on the Mount Chop Mod and I wanted to make sure it was absolutely necessary to do if going to an aftermarket wheel and bigger tires.

I'm just waiting for the SCS SR8's to be back in stock and will be ordering the 17x8.5 and am going with Toyo Open Country AT2 275/70/17.

Are there better tires to look into that would let me avoid the Mount Chop Mod?

Thanks!
Not to burst your bubble, but Toyo doesn't offer that tire in that size. Their website lists 265 and 285, but no 275. I would be running that tire, in that size, if it was offered.

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Not to burst your bubble, but Toyo doesn't offer that tire in that size. Their website lists 265 and 285, but no 275. I would be running that tire, in that size, if it was offered.

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I guess I'm going 285...LOL.
 
MOST 285s will rub the body mount. Only way to not rub.... Stock sized tires.

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Every option might yield different results. If you are running 285s you can try adjusting your caster and trim the hell out of your bumper . If you run spacers you will need a bmc. Sometimes you just have to roll up your sleeves and get dirty.
 
Honestly... Just do the body mount chop and don't look back! Then you will have no rub, wheel/tire upgrade will be done, and you can worry about what you wanna do next to your T4R!

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Alot depends on rim backspace and how much further it pushes the out. Stock suspension and wheels on my trail i rode KOs for 60mi with no rub in the back Of the tire at all with mudflaps, just pushed the front liner forward.

Added 5100s at top ring and 1/4" spacer and spc ucas, no rub, added cooper muds, no rub.

Changed rim to pro comp verigos 17x9 -6bs and rub. Remove mud flaps, readjust fron fender, no rub.

Everyone will have a slightly different experiance, Id just do what your planning and adjust after IF needed
 
Should definitely not need a body mount chop with 285s and proper alignment. It does depend on wheel width and backspacing. 9" wheels or wheel spacers often require it. 8.5" is cutting it close, but it should be fine with the right alignment.

It would be really stupid to hack the body mount if it was not required. I've seen some really bad ones and not many people spend the time to do it right. And it will technically never be as strong as stock once you hack it. Also. many people do it not understanding alignments....
 
MOST 285s will rub the body mount. Only way to not rub.... Stock sized tires.

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Sorry, but not correct. Plenty of ways to not rub and 285s can easily clear the body mount. Anything but stock.. will typically rub plastics, but that is super easy to resolve. The body mount is a major undertaking that I would not recommend for the avg user. It can't be reversed and has potential safety impacts. Not enough to really worry about, but horrible to hack up a truck when its not necessary.
 
Every case will be different, but for what it's worth, I will share my experience. I went with Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70s on FN Overlander wheels (8.5'' with -6 offset) and have a tiny tad of light between tires and the body mount on full lock. I found that offset is a crucial variable. Had I gone with more aggressive offset (-10 for instance), I could have had the tires rubbing the body mount. All else equal, wider rims are more likely to rub the body mount as well. Finally, going with M/T tires could put you on the other side (they are like ~0.2" taller). I was lucky.


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Get everything put on. Get alignment. And then see what is necessary. I wouldn't do a bmc unless it was needed.

This^^^.

Get your wheels and tires installed and see how they fit first. I run 17x8" wheels with 4.5" backspacing, Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/70/17 and I clear the body mount with the wheels stuffed by about 1/8". It's a little closer than I would like it but we've taken it to Moab and in mountains around here and it doesn't rub. My alignment is adjusted for maximum caster, which helps push the wheels forward and clears the body mount. You may have to trim the front bumper a little as well as push the fender liners forward. I didn't run into that issue as I have a Pelfreybilt bumper.
 
Hey Guys just read up on the Mount Chop Mod and I wanted to make sure it was absolutely necessary to do if going to an aftermarket wheel and bigger tires.

I'm just waiting for the SCS SR8's to be back in stock and will be ordering the 17x8.5 and am going with Toyo Open Country AT2 275/70/17.

Are there better tires to look into that would let me avoid the Mount Chop Mod?

Thanks!

I am running 285 Toyo Open Country R/T's with stock suspension and stock trail wheels - no body mount rub. Anything that will push the tire outward (different wheel offset, spacers, etc.) will get me in trouble with the body mount.
 
285s on mine. Caster is set to max with aftermarket control arms... I only rub in full lock reverse. To me not worth the BMC ill just act like I dont know what im doing and perform a multi point turn when not necessary :lookout:
 
Honestly guys -> 265s will go anywhere that 285s will go - - -

No need for lifts, no need for re-gearing, cv joints and boots will last forever, stock shocks will last forever, suspension alignment can actually be left stock, stock wheels actually look pretty nice. And the urban guys in Reno aren't looking to steal my truck........
 
Honestly guys -> 265s will go anywhere that 285s will go - - -

No need for lifts, no need for re-gearing, cv joints and boots will last forever, stock shocks will last forever, suspension alignment can actually be left stock, stock wheels actually look pretty nice. And the urban guys in Reno aren't looking to steal my truck........

I would agree with most of this, being on stock suspension myself. Stock suspension with 275/70's and sliders has gotten me a LOT of places over the last year and a half, however I will be upgrading to a 2-2.5" lift and 255/80's (32.8x10.5) here soon to increase my skid plate ground clearance, to increase wheel up travel so I am not on the bump stops hard every time I come across a water bar on a trail, and to increase comfort on the trail. My CV's are currently angled up to the wheel, so post-lift I am looking to end up with the CV's at the same angle, but angling down towards the wheel versus up to it.

The piece of mind coming with increased clearance at the front skid is worth the lift alone. I have been on many easy roads that have been made more nerve racking because it has a higher center with occasional rocks that like to ping along the skids. Having an extra 2 inches under there would be a world of difference in my comfort knowing that I won't smash into a rock (which I have done). But yes, I think that most people don't give the stock rigs nearly enough credit for what they are capable of.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I should have noted that I'll also be adding an ADS suspension:

ADS 2.5 Remote Resi Shocks
2.5 Piggyback Rear Shocks
Uniball Upper Arm

Will this effect clearance in any way?
 
I did new wheels and 275s with 1.75"/.75" lift and was rubbing in the back, then I got it realigned and once it was back in spec I was now rubbing on the front bumper. I absolutely recommend waiting until you know if yours will rub before hacking away.
625FB831-4C84-49FE-9B69-23A0E0A5177F_zpshmmxifs1.jpg~original
 
Honestly guys -> 265s will go anywhere that 285s will go - - -

No need for lifts, no need for re-gearing, cv joints and boots will last forever, stock shocks will last forever, suspension alignment can actually be left stock, stock wheels actually look pretty nice. And the urban guys in Reno aren't looking to steal my truck........

So the laws of physics don't apply to a 4runner. Interesting....
 

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