My 01 Rust Repair

First couple parts showed up yesterday. All of my used OEM parts are coming from the west coast as well. I've also been updating the first post to reflect what parts I have.

UCA's
20150923_174953_zpsxo4zbhja.jpg~original


Transmission CM
20150923_175124_zps8mpdpknh.jpg~original
 
Last edited:
Some more items showed up Friday. I'm waiting on front calipers, and a quote for new stainless braided brake lines. Once those show up I'll only need CV's.

20150927_181803_zps0mmom0fi.jpg~original
 
Why OEM for UCAs? Seems like you might as well do SPC/LR UCAs if you're replacing them anyway

I'm not a big fan of the LR's. With the 3rd Gen's you can shave the stock UCA's to gain more clearance between the tire on the UCA. I'm going to try this route, and see what happens. I don't do much wheeling anymore anyways, and could use the money on more important parts.
 
Last edited:
i am using poor-15 on my frame and i have about 5 gallons of used motor oil i plan on spraying on the inside of the frame rails. i have plans on doing a frame swap on a clean frame from texas in the near future but for right now i just need to get the thing running again. i have done countless frame swaps on tacoma and tundras working for toyota, with two car lifts i can have it done in 14 hours its super easy if you have the equipment
 
Some good products that I've used to clean up some minor surface rust on my 4runner were : Eastwood internal frame coating. Inside of my frame was clean. But a layer of protection isn't going to hurt. I used 6 cans.

Also after sanding rust, I used VHT chassi paint. Which is good paint. And matches the original frame color well.

Also I have a gallon and few cans of fluid film.

Also have a quart of por15.

I'm planning on fluid film after everything has been sanded and painted. And especially during winter.

I've notice there are holes on the rocker pannels of you go under the car and look at the pinch welds. There's like a paper type material covering rocker pannel holes. Might be dran holes. 2 cans of fluid film per side through the holes will be a good thing. A small nozzle comes with a can of fluid film. You can fit the nozzle through the little cracka of pinch weld and get some protection in there.

These are good for anyone who is trying to maintain a already free rust cad or even after fixing the rust. A little goes a long way.

I washed the insde of the frame and blew the water out with a compressor.

Eastwood internal frame coating
Fluid film
VHT chassy paint
Por15
 
Last edited:
Few spots to look for rust are : around the gas tank area, and near the muffler. I've also noticed that you should stick your hand in where the rear shock mounts on the top. Its shapped like a cup almost. I guarantee that water, dirt, and sand will sit there. And that is a good spot for rust to form. As its shapped like a spoon. You can stick your hand there and feel around. Feel for dirt or loose rust. There's a deam hole. You can drill it little bigger with a bigger drill bit. So water and dirt gets out easier. I cleaned mine up and used Eastwood internal frame coating with a 24" nozzle finished with VHT paint. Just went to town with the VHT paint as it was hard to get in.
 
I'm not exactly sure on what I'm going to paint everything with. I had been looking at the Eastwood products, and think I might go that way. I'm used POR15 in the past, but didn't really think it was all that great. I'm open to suggestions on the paint process.

I'm going to order my new soft brake lines today. I'll also be ordering new bushings for the front sway bar, and building some new front links.
 
Paint Remover

I'm looking for some good paint/rust remover. Ideally something that I can put in a 5 gallon bucket to let the parts soak in. Is there something that is better than the rest?
 
Ill try to find what Stroffregen Motors told me he uses to acid wash everything. Acid wash is labor intensive but it would probably work well for you!
 
Ill try to find what Stroffregen Motors told me he uses to acid wash everything. Acid wash is labor intensive but it would probably work well for you!

I was just looking into using sodium hydroxide. That's the home version of acid dipping. I think I might go this route since it's dirt cheap to get.
 
I was just looking into using sodium hydroxide. That's the home version of acid dipping. I think I might go this route since it's dirt cheap to get.

For surface rust problems, I scrap and sand down to clean it up and then spray on some OSPHO. It is a great rust converter. Turns the rust into a black primer and then I paint it. Works like a charm!
 
My plan is, once I get a second vechile as my dd. I'll be taking the seats outs, taking the carpet out and washing it. While at it I'll check the floors for any rust spots, fix those with por15. I'll be sure to pictures. I've noticed where the door seal let the water drain. If the seal is bad weather will drain to wrong spots or sit and will get under the plastic pillar. And I had little bit of rust around the pillar area.
 
I've used soda ash and electrolysis before. Super cheap and it worked really well

Pretty sure soda ash is the same thing as caustic soda. I might go this route since everything is pretty available from a local hardware store.

How did you do the electrolysis? I haven't looked into that too much.

Sub'd! I'll be doing the same thing to my 01. Do you have any places on your frame that are rusted though? I gotta spot in front of the rear axle that ain't to bad right now but wanna get it taken care of asap.

I had a section on the passenger side that was pretty bad, and another spot just in front of that still. I'm going to cut open the frame next summer, and remove all the rusted spot around the entire frame.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,087
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top