My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

So it's off stretch time. Hammered the spark plug tube seals into the valve covers and sprayed them with simple clear lacquer.

Used a spare nut for the front CV shafts as the seal installation tool and my auto body hammer.
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This is a thought provoking question should I even think about replacing the rear main seal?


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Today I installed Valve Covers new spark plugs and tried to get the broken studs out of the crossover pipe where the CAT bolts to it.

Big fail using heat. So it's drill and tap like the exhaust manifolds.
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Edit. I did put the rubber washers on the VC bolts. Couldn't find them at the time I put blue rtv on the half moons so I just ran the bolts and made them snug to keep them on position.


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Well today I drilled out the twisted off crossover studs and installed the spark plug wires. My favorite Bosch Premium wire set isn't sold at autozone anymore so I got their Duralast Gold set.
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they came preassembled with anchors etc. they are Mag Core so they should be the same low resistance steel core wire set I got with the Bosch set. I really mean pre-assembled. What is shown in the pictures is how they came out of the box. I did nothing but plug them into their respective coil.

Anyone ever watch Electric Company.....the game of which one doesn't belong? I think I'll order a Denso coil and keep the China coil as a get home spare.


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I went to tap the crossover stud holes and it looks like I'll be using through bolts in them. At least two anyway. One hole drifted off center too much and one the hole is too big for the threads.

It's time to pull (push) the red runner in the garage and start yanking the engine.


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This was done a few years ago to the 97 puppy hauler. Finished and I didn't do anything with the logo on them.


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Started doing the stuff necessary to pull engine this afternoon.

This is what I know needs done yet:

Remove stupid skid plate
Remove exhaust from crossover.
Remove starter and harness from block
Unbolt drivers side motor mount
Unbolt torque converter
Unbolt bell housing bolts
Unbolt fuel lines.

I searched for engine wiring harness plastic covers that bolt to the valve covers. Figuring while the main harness is lying over the drivers fender I could replace the broken plastic.

Nope, it appears the main engine harness is no longer available. Let alone it's protective covers.


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All that's left is left rear motor mount bolt and the torque converter bolts.

I must regroup. I have no clue how to get to the drivers side dust cover bolts shy of dropping the front diff and or steering rack.

Going to Google my brains out finding a answer.


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So regrouping I've discovered those inspection bolts are going to suck the big one. It may take a few hours and some tool trips to get my last 9 bolts out.

2 inspection cover bolts
6 TQ converter bolts
1 drivers rear motor mount bolt.


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All that's left is left rear motor mount bolt and the torque converter bolts.

I must regroup. I have no clue how to get to the drivers side dust cover bolts shy of dropping the front diff and or steering rack.

Going to Google my brains out finding a answer.


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I dropped the 2 long bolts out the front of the diff and rolled the the diff down and was a lot easier that way.
 
So by the picture there are two engines on stands.
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After pulling the engine and putting it on the stand I started swapping over things to the 96 engine.

1) The crossover pipe was first. And all the nuts came off without braking or ripping threads off the studs.

2) swap over the engine mounts from the engine I pulled to the engine I'm installing.

**************Incase anyone here is curious the AC compressor and mount must come off to remove the passenger side engine mount bracket.

Tomorrow I'll put the 96 engine on the cherry picker and do the rear main seal.

Since I forgot to remove the harness bolt from the drivers side motor mount I ended up pulling the pins out of the connector for the front diff 4wd indicator. Darn it!!!!

Other than forgetting the harness bolt on motor mount for Trans portion of the wire harness. And the starter harness giving me grief trying to unclip it from the harness bracket there was/were no supprise's.


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I dropped the 2 long bolts out the front of the diff and rolled the the diff down and was a lot easier that way.



Removing the two bolts in the front frame for the diff I see. Which way did you rotate it. It looks like a bolt goes through the top of the housing at the front yoke. How did you rotate it? It's busy in there and don't see moving it much either way.
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