My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

[phattyduck]

So I greased the lower balljoints and wiggled the tires.

That's a big red flag right there, brother... OEM ball joints are not greaseable. The clicking is likely something else though - since the lower ball joints hold up the corner of the truck, you can't get them to move by hand on the ground.

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

I would check the lbj for how much movement in it. Make sure its in spec to be on the safe side


Mostly the cv joints click when turned to either extreme they are done.

How the wheel bearings feeling?

The sway bar end links look good?
The strut not having any play or leaking oil?

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[19963.4lsr5]

The CarQuest lower balljoints were on it when I bought it and they have zero play that I can detect. I put grease zercs in them because he neglected to do it. Eventually I’ll replace them

I’m going to replace the passenger inner and outer tie rod and see what happens. The rig has 290k miles now. Lower control arms in the front are rebushed with new adjusters installed in the chassis. Drivers side inner tie rod was replaced last spring. The passenger side is the only old stuff on it besides the upper control bushings and balljoints.

My steering rack seeps fluid also and eventually that’s going to need replacing as well.


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[brillo_76]

Hmm... so no cv joint click on that side. The bushing on the frame on the sway bar can make noise but won't effect steering. Steering would have to be tie rods or steering rack. You aren't feeling any play in the tie rod in? That's probably the most likely issue. Or the steering rack itself worse case.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Hmm... so no cv joint click on that side. The bushing on the frame on the sway bar can make noise but won't effect steering. Steering would have to be tie rods or steering rack. You aren't feeling any play in the tie rod in? That's probably the most likely issue. Or the steering rack itself worse case.

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All three 4Runners needed the front sway bar mounts and links replaced. Two of the three needed the rear links replaced. All 4 links are greaseable now.


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[brillo_76]

Good deal

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[19963.4lsr5]

I bought a premium balljoint from NAPA and it was the 555 Japan unit. My steering issue sure feels like a tight balljoint.

I’ll keep you all posted. I prefer a greaseable unit over a OEM. Been there too many times I’d rather have control of the grease interval then have a seized ball joint control my live


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[19963.4lsr5]

Installing it caused my steering wheel to be off of center. It drove in the snow like it was toe out.

Got a wheel alignment and it was toe out 3/4”. Interesting, non to say the least. The balljoint I replaced was dry and grinding away until I started greasing it.


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[brillo_76]

Glad you got an alignment. I need a metallic base and I be able to check the lower ball joints for play. I suspect that if you keep normal size tires on don't off road your ball joints will last quite a while.

I like you personally before greasable parts. So I figure if moogs are within spec they will be fine. If not, then I be forced to stick with non greasable oem lowers.

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[19963.4lsr5]

Glad you got an alignment. I need a metallic base and I be able to check the lower ball joints for play. I suspect that if you keep normal size tires on don't off road your ball joints will last quite a while.

I like you personally before greasable parts. So I figure if moogs are within spec they will be fine. If not, then I be forced to stick with non greasable oem lowers.

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Moog joints gave me problems on the front Dana 60 axle under my cummins. Since then I stay away from them. The Napa joints never needed replacing.

The joint I put on the 4Runner was the Japanese unit.


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[brillo_76]

Moog joints gave me problems on the front Dana 60 axle under my cummins. Since then I stay away from them. The Napa joints never needed replacing.

The joint I put on the 4Runner was the Japanese unit.


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Well we put oem under the 1997 limited. My tetanus 1 has moogs on it. So I want to verify they are within spec. I would think that moog be better the Napa but maybe not the case. Mostly chain stores parts can be iffy..

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[19963.4lsr5]

Well we put oem under the 1997 limited. My tetanus 1 has moogs on it. So I want to verify they are within spec. I would think that moog be better the Napa but maybe not the case. Mostly chain stores parts can be iffy..

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I’ll admit when I switched to napa I did grease the front balljoints at the minimum twice a year. The first sign of snow I’d put my cooper studded snow tires on. So the chassis got greased when I swapped to snows and again in April when I went back to the copper 33x12.5x16.5’s.

I and my ex wife both had 94 rams with the Cummins and I went through two sets of lower joints on both trucks. Went I went to the Napa Premium and greased twice a year fixed it.


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[brillo_76]

I’ll admit when I switched to napa I did grease the front balljoints at the minimum twice a year. The first sign of snow I’d put my cooper studded snow tires on. So the chassis got greased when I swapped to snows and again in April when I went back to the copper 33x12.5x16.5’s.

I and my ex wife both had 94 rams with the Cummins and I went through two sets of lower joints on both trucks. Went I went to the Napa Premium and greased twice a year fixed it.


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That's the man thing. They worked for you.

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[19963.4lsr5]

That's the man thing. They worked for you.

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On the front Dana 60 of that area the steering knuckles had their balljoints exposed to the weather and not inside the wheel where would be protected from the weather. The lowers always failed by getting water in them and rusting. I know that greasing them and see water and rusty goo coming out.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Well, my exhaust started making a god awful vibration sound.

New stainless exhaust arrived today.

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[Bad Luck]

Well, my exhaust started making a god awful vibration sound.

How's the quality on those? How long do you get out of it where you're at?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

How's the quality on those? How long do you get out of it where you're at?

The exhaust on the floor looks as good as any other system I bought.

Jon recommend it.

The system I have on it with the loose baffle is the Napa aluminum coated exhaust. It’s at least 6-7 years old and has been on two of my rigs. I put it on the 96 around 6 months before it got totaled. There’s hardly any surface rust on it. But something in the can rusted or came loose.


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[brillo_76]

Yes I have one on Tetanus 1. It's your cheapest solution for cat back. Well see I think mine been on for 2 years now. It's the stainless that will slightly oxidize those newer grades.

If it lasts more then 4 years here it will beat anything else I tried.

Walkers just rot off here.

They bolt right on. I mostly use stainless steel bolts to clamp the flanges with oem gaskets. They do come with gaskets though.

I take some photos of mine the night time I am under it.

I hope it works good for you..



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[brillo_76]

Napa beats walker then. Mine didn't make 5 years. Tail pipe rotted off in 4 then at 5 the muffler rotted out lol

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[19963.4lsr5]

Well, the new exhaust is on. It has mandrel bends which is higher flowing.


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