My 1997 SR5 build and repair thread

[brillo_76]

I have never heard of this...

My tires on the 4Runner hold air really well. But, the 2016 Impala LTZ w/ 245/45/19 tires loses air much more rapidly. I wonder if those wheels need bead sealant? :shrug:

If the bead area is oxidizing.. As it doesn't take much. Sometimes we actually have to junk Aluminum rims because the beads are too bad and rotted away enough the tire will not seal or the rim bead is just not thick enough anymore.:-(

 

[Zhehan]

That probably is a very rare occurrence here on the West Coast where they don't use salt on the roads. But, I'll ask about the sealant at Discount Tires and see what they say.

Thanks!

 

[brillo_76]

That probably is a very rare occurrence here on the West Coast where they don't use salt on the roads. But, I'll ask about the sealant at Discount Tires and see what they say.

Thanks!

True. I also seen brand new rimes and beads leak without it. It's just how the aluminum reacts with the tire bead. Some rims will seal a lot, will not. At least that what can happen.


Take soapy water around your valve steams and rim bead to see if it's leaking. That will definitely tell you for sure.

Some folks just take the tires off and put them weighted down in a big tub of water too. Then let it sit for a while. You see if you have air leaking after half hour or so. Microscopic bubbles is all it takes foe a slow leak...

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[Bad Luck]

Spray soapy water in the valve stem itself to check the core isn't leaking

 

[19963.4lsr5]

It’s done and wheel is strait and tight feeling steering.

I’ll compare the rear numbers to me last one two or so years ago.


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[19963.4lsr5]

It’s seal time

Freezing it so it goes in easier.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

It’s seal time

Freezing it so it goes in easier.

GL, hope you got 3 seals or you've done this job before and know how to feel them out.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

GL, hope you got 3 seals or you've done this job before and know how to feel them out.

I got two. I had a big D60 axle socket I used to drive it in. It didn’t take any time at all to pull it apart. If it still leaks I’ll buy a real seal driver for it. I used a wooden dowel to bottom it out.


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[Rushthezeppelin]

I got two. I had a big D60 axle socket I used to drive it in. It didn’t take any time at all to pull it apart. If it still leaks I’ll buy a real seal driver for it. I used a wooden dowel to bottom it out.


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So I guess you didn't do the bearings while you were in there? Are you sure the existing retainer is riding in the seal?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

So I guess you didn't do the bearings while you were in there? Are you sure the existing retainer is riding in the seal?

It was riding on the collar about 1/3 inboard. I can’t see the collar moving on it’s own.

I have a spare axle to rebuild but I needed to clear up the axle weep for inspection. It’s got 296k miles on it. The bearing has zero up and down play.

I had a small dimple on the seal but it isn’t deformed. If the seal has to come out I’ll grease it and get it’s true location and or rebuild the other axle. It just needs to pass inspection for now.

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[Rushthezeppelin]

It was riding on the collar about 1/3 inboard. I can’t see the collar moving on it’s own.

I have a spare axle to rebuild but I needed to clear up the axle weep for inspection. It’s got 296k miles on it. The bearing has zero up and down play.

I had a small dimple on the seal but it isn’t deformed. If the seal has to come out I’ll grease it and get it’s true location and or rebuild the other axle. It just needs to pass inspection for now.

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If you went from the old style seal to the new style seal it will ride in a different spot. I can't remember for sure if it's more inboard or outboard. Easy test is to mark the retainer with a sharpie, put the axle back in and snug up the nuts, spin the axle and few times and take it back out and look at where the sharpie is erased. Also with the bearing keep in mind that if it was leaking bad enough for long enough it washed the grease out of the bearing. As long as it's still running on the diff oil it's not really going to wear but now that you fixed up the seal it's going to dry out and start wearing fast if there's no grease still in there.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If you went from the old style seal to the new style seal it will ride in a different spot. I can't remember for sure if it's more inboard or outboard. Easy test is to mark the retainer with a sharpie, put the axle back in and snug up the nuts, spin the axle and few times and take it back out and look at where the sharpie is erased. Also with the bearing keep in mind that if it was leaking bad enough for long enough it washed the grease out of the bearing. As long as it's still running on the diff oil it's not really going to wear but now that you fixed up the seal it's going to dry out and start wearing fast if there's no grease still in there.

I’m aware of the grease washout possibility. There is grease in the brake drum area but I can’t tell if it’s from the bearing or if it’s from the PO and used a liberal amount of brake grease. I’ll know soon enough. I have a spare to rebuild and the adapter tool for the press.

The seal riding at a different spot is good because I could just feel the ware line with my thumb nail.

Like I said I did this for inspection.


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[19963.4lsr5]

Well it does have 296,800 miles on it.

I hope I can find a two piece dust shield so I don’t have to remove the steering knuckle.


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[Rushthezeppelin]

Well it does have 296,800 miles on it.

I hope I can find a two piece dust shield so I don’t have to remove the steering knuckle.


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Ouch, making me feel real good about buying the 3rd gen with the least rust I could find. My dust shields are still great at 278k.

 

[brillo_76]

I removed them years ago. It's not a big deal. I don't believe they make a 2 piece one. Might be able to make one. 1 have 2 missing those with zeros issues.

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[TheDurk]

I hope I can find a two piece dust shield so I don’t have to remove the steering knuckle.

You can keyhole a standard shield. Cut it to sacrifice one of the four bolt holes so you can slide it on. Worked for me.

A good search will find a few posts on how to do this.

 

[brillo_76]

You can keyhole a standard shield. Cut it to sacrifice one of the four bolt holes so you can slide it on. Worked for me.

A good search will find a few posts on how to do this.

That's good to know.. Good to see [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] is still here...

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[19963.4lsr5]

You can keyhole a standard shield. Cut it to sacrifice one of the four bolt holes so you can slide it on. Worked for me.

A good search will find a few posts on how to do this.

Thanks Durk.


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[HiLife]

I don't believe they make a 2 piece one. Might be able to make one.

Wouldn't it be great if Toyota did make one?

You can keyhole a standard shield. Cut it to sacrifice one of the four bolt holes so you can slide it on. Worked for me.
A good search will find a few posts on how to do this.

I was thinking of a propper way to do this. Thanks Durk!

That's good to know.Good to see is still here...

Always great to see one of the OG's still posting.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks Durk.


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FYI, my incoming PA safety inspection required I install my missing brake shields. You might not find someone quite so picky. Clearly [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] has a nicer guy inspecting his.