My crank shaft pulley holder didn't work...

ShooterMcGavin

New member
I used a metal bar. One end was held by the PS pump bolt and the other was holding the crank pulley with an 8mm bolt.

Here is the setup:


And here are the results:


I thought I'd solve the problem by doubling up. I created a system with 2 metal bars. Both joined at the PS pump and each using their own 8mm bolt at the crank pulley.

Here is try number 2:


And the final results:



The last time I used the tool rented from O'reilly's with a friend, we were bending the bolts on that too. I'd like to avoid spending $70 on that fancy tool.

Any other ideas?

*Edit: I did spray some PB Blaster on the head of the crank shaft pulley bolt. I'm wondering if I should try again with a Grade 8 bolt? Or another grade?
 
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I used a metal bar. One end was held by the PS pump bolt and the other was holding the crank pulley with an 8mm bolt.

Here is the setup:


And here are the results:


I thought I'd solve the problem by doubling up. I created a system with 2 metal bars. Both joined at the PS pump and each using their own 8mm bolt at the crank pulley.

Here is try number 2:


And the final results:



The last time I used the tool rented from O'reilly's with a friend, we were bending the bolts on that too. I'd like to avoid spending $70 on that fancy tool.

Any other ideas?

*Edit: I did spray some PB Blaster on the head of the crank shaft pulley bolt. I'm wondering if I should try again with a Grade 8 bolt? Or another grade?

Where in the PNW are you? I've got the schley tool. You pay for shipping there and back and you can use it. I'll bring it to work with me today. Send it priority. PM me. Coming from Portland.
 
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Hey, I used the starter bump method, but I was confident I could do it safely. Worked like a charm. YMMV.

Then I built a 2x4 tool to torque it up.
 
Where in the PNW are you? I've got the schley tool. You pay for shipping there and back and you can use it. I'll bring it to work with me today. Send it priority. PM me. Coming from Portland.

Thanks. I will consider it but I will try using a grade 8 bolt later today. Hope that works.

Thanks for the tips everyone!
 
Am I crazy? Should the cam shaft pulleys hold?

Seriously man, take me up on my offer. I could have Fed Ex'd that damn thing to you same day delivery and you would have a picture of it off right now. It's sitting on my passenger seat as we speak.

EDIT: I also have the tensioner tool on my passenger seat as well but you shouldn't need it. A new tensioner comes with a pin it. Don't pull the pin until you're done.
[MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] I also have a long 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" drive digital torque wrench up to 250 ft lb. if you need it. Just send them back when you're done.
 
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The problem is you need some sort of sleeve around the bolt between your cheesy angle steel and the harmonic balancer to take the side torque load off of the bolt. pauldub mentioned this earlier in the thread.

Do NOT rely on those cam gears to hold things in place.
 
I used a chain strap wrench on crank pulley to loosen the bolt. And tighten too.

You are crazy. It will never work. But try it and take more pictures.
 
Take Rock Rat up on his offer. Make sure you have a long breaker bar (think 24"). If you don't you may end up doing more harm than good.

Having the right tools and knowing how to use them makes all the difference....
 
The same thing happened to me when I used that method. I was lucky to get to 217 ft-lb with my 2x6 built the same way as seen in many other threads because my grade 8 bolts kept bending. You could also use a 2x4/2x6 and use nuts all the way down the shaft of the bolt until the nuts are flush with the crank after tightening the bolts.

All the master techs I know just use a chain wrench.
 
The same thing happened to me when I used that method. I was lucky to get to 217 ft-lb with my 2x6 built the same way as seen in many other threads because my grade 8 bolts kept bending. You could also use a 2x4/2x6 and use nuts all the way down the shaft of the bolt until the nuts are flush with the crank after tightening the bolts.

All the master techs I know just use a chain wrench.

Embrace the bend, use cheap bolts not Grade 8. I built my 2x4 tool with cheapo ACE hardware store 3/8" stove bolts that I had lying around from building a workbench. They bent plenty, but they don't BREAK!! The Grade 8s are far stronger when used as they are designed, but they are harder and more brittle when subjected to off-axis stress that you get here. NOT the right choice.
IMG_1466.JPG


I won't guarantee it for removing, but I got to 217ft-lbs on my Snap-On 0-250 with no problem. Note the diagonal placement of the bolts (never on the centerline) and the length of wood PAST the bolts. Ignore those two things, and your tool WILL FAIL (ex-carpenter here).
 
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Embrace the bend, use cheap bolts not Grade 8. I built my 2x4 tool with cheapo ACE hardware store 3/8" stove bolts. They bent plenty, but they don't BREAK!!
IMG_1466.JPG


I won't guarantee it for removing, but I got to 217ft-lbs on my Snap-On 0-250 with no problem. Note the diagonal placement of the bolts (never on the centerline) and the length of wood PAST the bolts. Ignore those two things, and your tool WILL FAIL.

That's exactly how I built mine. I only used a 2x6 to have plenty of wood around the bolts. I just kept going and the bolts bent, but didn't break.
 

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