My first electric locking differential

WrenchTech

New member
My recently acquired 1999 runner has a rear locking differential. I have been wanting one of these for the longest time, so I imagine my dismay when I found out that it can only be engaged when the vehicle is in 4-Low. I was so looking forward to running it on the snow covered streets in 2wd. Realizing, of course, the increased tendency to spin out of control when both rear wheels break traction at the same time when going down the road at higher speeds. Which is certainly why Toyota set it up the way they did. Has anybody out there taken back full control of this device? I think various vendors sell wiring harnesses for setting these things up in whatever vehicle you might want install them in. I think wiring it direct it’s going to be one of my earlier modifications.
 
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Search grey or blue wire mod. It allows you to enable the locker in 2WD. Simple solution for your factory wired rear locker, no need for aftermarket wiring solutions.
 
Easy and quick. That was the first mod I did on my '99. Took about 10 minutes. You just cut one wire and ground it.

I left the speed inhibit active on mine, just took off the 4LO inhibit. I didn't think engaging it at higher speeds was something that needed to happen.
 
Fun fact - when I got mine it was seized up and wouldn't activate in 4-lo, the light would blink for a while and eventually go solid, but it wasn't working.

I did the grey or blue wire mod as preparation for troubleshooting and repairing the elocker. Once I put the rear up on jackstands, pushed hte button, and turned the wheels by hand it finally locked.

Ever since then I've been able to reliably use it, it does seem to like to work better if I locked it in 2wd first then switch to 4wd.
 
Mine was stuck engaged once for a couple weeks, driving at speed on a solid surface is not a comfortable feeling.
 
I was so looking forward to running it on the snow covered streets in 2wd. Realizing, of course, the increased tendency to spin out of control when both rear wheels break traction at the same time when going down the road at higher speeds.
Have some run-out room the first time you go around the corner 2WD locked in the snow. You WILL drift or spin. A locked axle severely reduces our ability to turn safely at ALL speeds. Open diffs for 'safe' handling in the snow unless you need more traction...

Even AWD vehicles with rear LSD's are a bit of a challenge - accelerating around corners is a handful (say, coming away from a stop sign or coming out of a driveway). I get lots of odd looks whenever I drive my Alltrac up in the snow (nobody expects a Camry to be drifting/oversteering).

-Charlie
 
Have some run-out room the first time you go around the corner 2WD locked in the snow. You WILL drift or spin. A locked axle severely reduces our ability to turn safely at ALL speeds. Open diffs for 'safe' handling in the snow unless you need more traction...

Even AWD vehicles with rear LSD's are a bit of a challenge - accelerating around corners is a handful (say, coming away from a stop sign or coming out of a driveway). I get lots of odd looks whenever I drive my Alltrac up in the snow (nobody expects a Camry to be drifting/oversteering).

-Charlie

Yes, I have had a couple of vehicles with limited slip differential’s, so I know the feeling. A 1973 Z28 Camaro I once had was notorious for wanting to swap ends on a snow covered roads.
 
Post above takes me back to about 7 years old and my dad spinning us out coming back from Christmas shopping in his then not so old Camaro.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A locked diff is just a bit worse than that, of course. Pretty much the only time I engage it in 2HI is to intentionally engage in some shens, it's not something I'd be doing to help with traction in any fort of pavement scenario. The rear end has lots of flex, and you really have to be on an uneven surface for the locker to help things. Which happens somewhat frequently off road, of course, just not on.
 
Mine was stuck engaged once for a couple weeks, driving at speed on a solid surface is not a comfortable feeling.

Just in case anyone else runs into a similar situation, it only takes about half an hour to engage/disengage the e-locker manually. Just gotta pull the actuator off the diff, and slide the fork over with a flat head screwdriver. I know this because I inadvertently installed my 3rd member with the locker engaged before I had the actuator wired. It’s not something I’d want to do a bunch, but it is doable if you’re in a bind.
 

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