My version of the Maplight Mod

[J.A.]

Thanks, I'll look at that. I'm ok with real and purposeful connections. Electrical connections that consist of 1 or 3 strands of wire scare me. That's how stuff burns up

If that's what's happening I may try to come up with a positive, secure connection to retain my extra feature

EDIT: That's exactly what was going on... The wire I pushed in was making contact with the center lead on the switch. It was occurring internally within the switch, not externally. At a later date I'll go back and modify so it works as it did when I first did the mod.

Interesting, was the issue that the stripped portion of the wire inserted into the unused hole on the switch too long? My stripped area was about 1/2" in legnth.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Interesting, was the issue that the stripped portion of the wire inserted into the unused hole on the switch too long? My stripped area was about 1/2" in legnth.

Yes, maybe. I might have been a little longer than 1/2". Another factor was I hadn't twisted the strands ideally. I think one or two strands 'got away' and made the jump to the center pin.

In a perfect world (ie not separated from the vast majority of my tools) I would tin the wire with a soldering iron.

Thanks again.
:cheers:

 

[woo]

Hell ya

Mod worked for me. I did the "A" pillar. Once I figured out which wire to use, it went smooth.

Well done for posting this info.
thx

 

[dannyg]

This might be a stupid question, but I want to do this mod using the A pillar. What do you use/ how you 'tap into the wire' in there? Do you need to solder this connection?
Also, if I use this A pillar method, I won't have to take apart the dash or install a switch, right?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

This might be a stupid question, but I want to do this mod using the A pillar. What do you use/ how you 'tap into the wire' in there? Do you need to solder this connection? Solder is probably best but high quality tap-in connectors are probably ok as the connection is protected from the elements.
Also, if I use this A pillar method, I won't have to take apart the dash or install a switch, right? The switch is additional to the basic mod. I did not install the switch and I haven't missed it. If you go in through the pillar no dash dis-assembly is required.

:cheers:

 

[dannyg]

Thanks for answering

 

[Jono6716]

hey guys,

is it possible to use a wire tap to tap the center wire on the ribbon cable running down the a pillar?

thanks

 

[ZandT4R]

i just did this mod. I split center wire out of the the ribbon using a utility knife, used a wire stripper on the middle wire, opened up a 1/8 inch section, hand twisted the new wire into it and electrical taped it all back together. I think it would have been a little neater with a wire tap, but once it was all taped and put back together, no one will ever know. One observation though, my map lights don't fire at the exact same time. Passenger side is a fraction of a second slower than the driver side. Is this how everyone else's work?

Edit: I also think a wire tap would make it difficult to reassemble the bundle of wires. I am happy with what I chose to do.

 

[ZandT4R]

Bump...anyone have any comments on my delayed map lights firing? I am thinking about shorting the wire feeding the slower bulb just a hair. Maybe the current gets to that side a fraction of a second slower?

Thanks

 

[ZandT4R]

Another idea is to swap the leds and see if the driver side fires slower...

 

[J.A.]

Another idea is to swap the leds and see if the driver side fires slower...

I think you are on the right track, sounds like a bad led. After trying the swap to see if the driver side fires slower, try replacing it with a known good led from the doors and see if the issue goes away completely.

 

[ZandT4R]

Thanks for the response. I will post findings tonight.

I'm guessing yours does not act as mine does?

 

[ZandT4R]

Turned out to be the bulb itself. I swapped the map lights with the rear door lights for now until I can get the switched out by v-leds. One has a loose heat sink and one flickers....glad they have a good warranty!

 

[4boer2]

Hello all, I just completed this mod and everything went smoothly. However the map light console is much looser than when I took it off. Did I bend a clip? If so, does anyone have a part number for those? I might just epoxy it to the head liner.

 

[riceandpho]

U got to push it up harder, your going to hear a deep click/ pop.

 

[Redline...]

I just finished doing this mod, so glad it ended up working once I was done! I even used the same switch. Thanks a lot for this write up!!

 

[kevinpt]

just did this mod in my limited and tapped into the running board wires.
so anyone with a limited with running board lights its the easiest way to do it. did this mod without a switch

 

[bvc]

Help...

I would love some input on this one....

I did the mod using the "A" pillar cut in. My problem is that when my 4r is unlocked all the interior lights go on and don't shut off. Opening and closing a door doesn't do it either. It has to be locked for the lights to go off.:wtf:

 

[kevinpt]

I would love some input on this one....

I did the mod using the "A" pillar cut in. My problem is that when my 4r is unlocked all the interior lights go on and don't shut off. Opening and closing a door doesn't do it either. It has to be locked for the lights to go off.:wtf:

put the truck in gear and it should turn off

 

[Dylan]

Can someone confirm this is the correct ribbon to tap into from the a pillar? The white ribbon. Is it the narrow middle wire?