Mystery Bits in Bell Housing

[sam.basye]

I’m about halfway through my transmission rebuild process and successfully pulled the transmission last night. I found these little metal bits just chilling in the bottom of the bell housing.

No idea how long they’ve been there and the drain hole in the cover has been clogged with mud so no way for them to bounce out. I feel like I’ve seen something similar, but I can’t place it.
The one on the top right is riveted together and about 1/2” long. That’s all the pieces that were sitting in the bottom.

Reason for rebuild is trans got too hot, burnt the fluid and started slipping due to a seized AC idler pulley. Unsure of actual mileage of trans. At least 180k up to 372k.

 

[mtbtim]

The only thing I can think of is it's parts from a starter that a previous owner replaced because it fell apart. But those pieces don't look familiar to me.

Are you rebuilding the trans yourself?

 

[sam.basye]

The only thing I can think of is it's parts from a starter that a previous owner replaced because it fell apart. But those pieces don't look familiar to me.

Are you rebuilding the trans yourself?

Thanks Tim!

I just took the starter apart and that’s exactly what I think it is. Little ball bearing separators or retainers within the bearing at the gear of the starter.
It started acting up and the last time I started it and it sounded crunchy.

I need to figure out if there is supposed to be a seal where that washer is since it’s loose.
The inside is all rusted out from water getting inside after my redneckery a few weeks ago that caused all my current problems..

Plowing through the flooded streets multiple times after the hurricane here in Charleston, SC washed the grease out of the idler pulley bearing which seized when it got hot and loaded the engine like driving with the e brake on, didn’t know this happened till I had to drive to the airport for work and couldn’t be late. Never got the trans temp cel, but it cooked the fluid and clutches. Started slipping after so I decided to try and rebuild it myself. I assumed water got into the starter and that’s why it also started acting up. Sure enough…
Your videos are top notch. I referenced them numerous times for the removal of my trans and t case. [emoji1305]

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks Tim!

I just took the starter apart and that’s exactly what I think it is. Little ball bearing separators or retainers within the bearing at the gear of the starter.
It started acting up and the last time I started it and it sounded crunchy.

I need to figure out if there is supposed to be a seal where that washer is since it’s loose.
The inside is all rusted out from water getting inside after my redneckery a few weeks ago that caused all my current problems..

Plowing through the flooded streets multiple times after the hurricane here in Charleston, SC washed the grease out of the idler pulley bearing which seized when it got hot and loaded the engine like driving with the e brake on, didn’t know this happened till I had to drive to the airport for work and couldn’t be late. Never got the trans temp cel, but it cooked the fluid and clutches. Started slipping after so I decided to try and rebuild it myself. I assumed water got into the starter and that’s why it also started acting up. Sure enough…
Your videos are top notch. I referenced them numerous times for the removal of my trans and t case. [emoji1305]

Yeah, if your starter was making weird sounds, it makes sense something happened with the starter and the bearing falling apart is a likely culprit.

That's a bummer you weren't monitoring your trans temp. You could have spotted the problem and saved your trans. The trans light doesn't come on until you've reached 300 degrees. That's way too late.

Tackling the rebuild of the trans with no prior experience will be quite the challenge. I'll be partnering with Yota1 Performance soon to film the rebuild of an Auto and Manual transmission. For a job like this, I'd rather film a guy doing it that has tons of experience and learn from him before trying it myself. I'm guessing you're going to use the Toyota FSM as a reference, but have you found any good instructional videos or write-ups for the rebuild. If so, could you provide links?

Glad our videos are helping you out.

 

[sam.basye]

Yeah, if your starter was making weird sounds, it makes sense something happened with the starter and the bearing falling apart is a likely culprit.

That's a bummer you weren't monitoring your trans temp. You could have spotted the problem and saved your trans. The trans light doesn't come on until you've reached 300 degrees. That's way too late.

Tackling the rebuild of the trans with no prior experience will be quite the challenge. I'll be partnering with Yota1 Performance soon to film the rebuild of an Auto and Manual transmission. For a job like this, I'd rather film a guy doing it that has tons of experience and learn from him before trying it myself. I'm guessing you're going to use the Toyota FSM as a reference, but have you found any good instructional videos or write-ups for the rebuild. If so, could you provide links?

Glad our videos are helping you out.

I bought a trans temp gauge I’ll be welding a bung to the pan for future use.. problem was I didn’t realize it was the seized pulley and thought it may have been a fouled plug and wasn’t running on all 6 until I got to the airport and it sounded like I had a supercharger leaving the stoplight when I got there. I thought it was the ac compressor pulley till I removed the idler pulley and it had no grease left. The trans working harder didn’t cross my mind from the excessive load. Now I know…

IPT import performance transmissions has a 6 part A340f basic rebuild series out of a Supra that’s decent.. it’s certainly no Toyota Time video, but not bad.

 

[Bad Luck]

I bought a trans temp gauge I’ll be welding a bung to the pan for future use.. problem was I didn’t realize it was the seized pulley and thought it may have been a fouled plug and wasn’t running on all 6 until I got to the airport and it sounded like I had a supercharger leaving the stoplight when I got there. I thought it was the ac compressor pulley till I removed the idler pulley and it had no grease left. The trans working harder didn’t cross my mind from the excessive load. Now I know…

IPT import performance transmissions has a 6 part A340f basic rebuild series out of a Supra that’s decent.. it’s certainly no Toyota Time video, but not bad.

You can monitor your transmission temps with scangauge/ultraguage/torque pro if your vehicle is 99-02.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I bought a trans temp gauge I’ll be welding a bung to the pan for future use.. problem was I didn’t realize it was the seized pulley and thought it may have been a fouled plug and wasn’t running on all 6 until I got to the airport and it sounded like I had a supercharger leaving the stoplight when I got there. I thought it was the ac compressor pulley till I removed the idler pulley and it had no grease left. The trans working harder didn’t cross my mind from the excessive load. Now I know…

IPT import performance transmissions has a 6 part A340f basic rebuild series out of a Supra that’s decent.. it’s certainly no Toyota Time video, but not bad.

Be aware that the IPT transmission may include a modified torque converter with a higher stall speed. You don't want that as it'll feel like the transmission is slipping all the time around town. I have over 350 HP at the crank in my 4Runner and I opted not going with a performance transmission just last month, so that should say something about what I think about the daily driving ability of the one from IPT or Level 10 transmissions. I took the advice from Gadget at URD to not go with one with a higher stall converter.

 

[sam.basye]

You can monitor your transmission temps with scangauge/ultraguage/torque pro if your vehicle is 99-02.

I have a 99, but wasn’t able to get the trans temp pid to work. I was using dashcommand though. The analog gauge should do me fine. Planning to install it on the lower console.

Be aware that the IPT transmission may include a modified torque converter with a higher stall speed. You don't want that as it'll feel like the transmission is slipping all the time around town. I have over 350 HP at the crank in my 4Runner and I opted not going with a performance transmission just last month, so that should say something about what I think about the daily driving ability of the one from IPT or Level 10 transmissions. I took the advice from Gadget at URD to not go with one with a higher stall converter.

Great info [emoji1303]
I was considering a new converter, especially the high stall from IPT since I plan to be supercharged at some point, but decided I didn’t need it and opted for the high performance clutch plates instead.
I went with Oregon Performance Transmission’s upgraded rebuild kit with red raybestos clutches.
It’s was slightly cheaper than the IPT rebuild kit and I don’t think (personal opinion with no proof to back it up) the IPT kit is any better. Solely based on how much they charge to do the transgo upgrade to your valve body. Why would their rebuild kit be worth what they’re charging using the same logic. Again I have zero proof of this lol

Now just have to figure out where all the new parts fit and slap it all back in with zero instructions..

 

[gamefreakgc]

I did see those Raybestos upgrade kits. I am curious to see how it all works when put back together and if it's a better transmission because of it or just helps with longevity. The Transgo kit is worth the money, every time. I love mine.

 

[Bad Luck]

I have a 99, but wasn’t able to get the trans temp pid to work. I was using dashcommand though. The analog gauge should do me fine. Planning to install it on the lower console.

Just keep in mind that your pan fluid temps will be much lower than the fluid coming directly out of the transmission. The fluid coming directly from the transmission is the hottest possible fluid and therefore the best place to get the temp for monitoring your fluid temp from a fluid/transmission health point of view.

 

[mtbtim]

I have a 99, but wasn’t able to get the trans temp pid to work. I was using dashcommand though. The analog gauge should do me fine. Planning to install it on the lower console.

Great info [emoji1303]
I was considering a new converter, especially the high stall from IPT since I plan to be supercharged at some point, but decided I didn’t need it and opted for the high performance clutch plates instead.
I went with Oregon Performance Transmission’s upgraded rebuild kit with red raybestos clutches.
It’s was slightly cheaper than the IPT rebuild kit and I don’t think (personal opinion with no proof to back it up) the IPT kit is any better. Solely based on how much they charge to do the transgo upgrade to your valve body. Why would their rebuild kit be worth what they’re charging using the same logic. Again I have zero proof of this lol

Now just have to figure out where all the new parts fit and slap it all back in with zero instructions..

I would suggest running a Scan Gauge for your trans temp. That's what I run in both my rigs. Or, if you have an Android Phone, use a Bluetooth reader sending information to the Torque Pro app.

Wow, you got the whole thing dismantled so that's good. It's a whole mess of parts for sure. Good luck with the rebuild.

 

[sam.basye]

I did see those Raybestos upgrade kits. I am curious to see how it all works when put back together and if it's a better transmission because of it or just helps with longevity. The Transgo kit is worth the money, every time. I love mine.

Hoping I like it after all the work, and extra work my dumbassery caused. Lol
My wifedid concerned I’m trying to make it a race car with the high performance clutches and transgo shift kit. [emoji51]

Just keep in mind that your pan fluid temps will be much lower than the fluid coming directly out of the transmission. The fluid coming directly from the transmission is the hottest possible fluid and therefore the best place to get the temp for monitoring your fluid temp from a fluid/transmission health point of view.

So are you suggesting to T off the send line between the trans and radiator? I just installed an external cooler after the radiator before it heads back to the pan. All the lines to and from the trans are going to be rubber lines. I cut them off after pulling the trans because they wouldn’t budge rusted into the nut..

I would suggest running a Scan Gauge for your trans temp. That's what I run in both my rigs. Or, if you have an Android Phone, use a Bluetooth reader sending information to the Torque Pro app.

Wow, you got the whole thing dismantled so that's good. It's a whole mess of parts for sure. Good luck with the rebuild.

I’ll look into that. I wasn’t impressed with the torque app when it came out, but maybe it’s better now. I was never able to get the fuel level indication on any of the obd2 apps to work either.

Currently stuck on the third pressure plate and will need to modify the press tool I bought to get the snap ring in tomorrow. Everything else should go smoothly as long as I get everything back in the right order…

 

[mtbtim]

Hoping I like it after all the work, and extra work my dumbassery caused. Lol
My wifedid concerned I’m trying to make it a race car with the high performance clutches and transgo shift kit. [emoji51]



So are you suggesting to T off the send line between the trans and radiator? I just installed an external cooler after the radiator before it heads back to the pan. All the lines to and from the trans are going to be rubber lines. I cut them off after pulling the trans because they wouldn’t budge rusted into the nut..




I’ll look into that. I wasn’t impressed with the torque app when it came out, but maybe it’s better now. I was never able to get the fuel level indication on any of the obd2 apps to work either.

Currently stuck on the third pressure plate and will need to modify the press tool I bought to get the snap ring in tomorrow. Everything else should go smoothly as long as I get everything back in the right order…

I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket trans temp gauge unless I had a 96-98 rig and an aftermarket gauge was my only option to read the trans temp. I used Torque Pro for years but got tired of having my phone as my vehicle monitor. I believe the Scan Gauge or Ultra Gauge is your best option.

But, if you really want to run an aftermarket trans temp gauge, watch this video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fT_2szdKXRM" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'm guessing you're not making a write-up or video of this rebuild, but anything you're willing to share would be awesome.


t

 

[Bad Luck]

So are you suggesting to T off the send line between the trans and radiator? I just installed an external cooler after the radiator before it heads back to the pan. All the lines to and from the trans are going to be rubber lines. I cut them off after pulling the trans because they wouldn’t budge rusted into the nut..

Putting the sensor on the fluid out line of the transmission before any cooler would give you the best representation of the trans fluid temps.

I'd really recommend either a scangauge ($170) or ultraguage mx ($94) (UltraGauge MX v1.4 [UltraGauge_MX_1.4_16] - $94.00 : UltraGauge) and a spiker engineering mount ($40) (Ultragauge Mount ('96-02 4Runner, '96-00 Tacoma) - Spiker Engineering) so you can accurately monitor engine coolant temps as well. The cluster coolant temp gauge has a very large range before showing anything abnormal.

You can also see and clear check engine light codes, track fuel economy, and see a good amount of live engine data. I use mine to set oil change interval reminders, monitor fuel economy, watch coolant temps, and show distance to empty.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I’ll look into that. I wasn’t impressed with the torque app when it came out, but maybe it’s better now. I was never able to get the fuel level indication on any of the obd2 apps to work either.

I use the Torque App and it shows everything we have a digital sensor reading for. The issue is a lot of our 4Runner's voltage signals are rather archaic and sometimes don't even communicate with the ECU. The fuel levels are one of those, along with the early transmission temp sensors. They just go straight to the dash and the diagnostic port is left in the dark. There is some useful data there like engine temps and things like that but that should never be an issue as long as your radiator is fairly new.

I use it primarily for short term and long term fuel trims for tuning purposes. My 4Runner sorta is a race car, or at least it pretends to be one.

 

[sam.basye]

I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket trans temp gauge unless I had a 96-98 rig and an aftermarket gauge was my only option to read the trans temp. I used Torque Pro for years but got tired of having my phone as my vehicle monitor. I believe the Scan Gauge or Ultra Gauge is your best option.

But, if you really want to run an aftermarket trans temp gauge, watch this video:



I'm guessing you're not making a write-up or video of this rebuild, but anything you're willing to share would be awesome.


t

I think I’m now leaning towards an Ultra Gauge.. I use DashCommand every once in a while, but never tried to add the trans temp gauge to it. Less work..
I’ll check out the video to se if it’s worth it. [emoji1303]

I decided not to document any of the rebuild, especially since it’s just me and a messy job. I had thought about it, but I also don’t want to give bad intel being my first rebuild. Without instructions…

So far I’ve got all the internals rebuilt. Just need to button it up and do the transgo kit to the valve body.

So far I’ve learned that my memory is not good enough to take on a big project like this without instructions. Lol
Lots of back and neck exercises in preparation.
Pick and scribe tools with a 90° bend are a must. At least two.
A stool would be nice.
The drip trays worked out great.
I hate snap rings.
If you’re a hand model, this is not the job for you.
The OPT kit includes way more parts than is needed. I assume it covers a bunch of different 340 variations. The raybestos upgrade kit was short a clutch ring and ended up with two extra rings and a ton of extra steel rings. Kit included 4 different valve body baskets.
The plastic split rings are junk.
Lining up the splines with the clutches is a nightmare.
The first set of steels are directional. This was a frustrating one until I realized this.
Pay the $30 for the instructions. As long as you own something that can play a cd-rom. lol
Set up a pole to place everything on in the order you pull it out helped a ton.
Music playing kept be from losing my mind every time I had to take it all back out to figure out why things weren’t lining up.
I’ll link the tool I bought and modified that just barely did the trick compressing the one spring plate tomorrow.
Hopefully I find out I did it all correctly come testing day next week [emoji51]

Putting the sensor on the fluid out line of the transmission before any cooler would give you the best representation of the trans fluid temps.

I'd really recommend either a scangauge ($170) or ultraguage mx ($94) (UltraGauge MX v1.4 [UltraGauge_MX_1.4_16] - $94.00 : UltraGauge) and a spiker engineering mount ($40) (Ultragauge Mount ('96-02 4Runner, '96-00 Tacoma) - Spiker Engineering) so you can accurately monitor engine coolant temps as well. The cluster coolant temp gauge has a very large range before showing anything abnormal.

You can also see and clear check engine light codes, track fuel economy, and see a good amount of live engine data. I use mine to set oil change interval reminders, monitor fuel economy, watch coolant temps, and show distance to empty.

Thanks for the link to the Ultra Gauge! I think I might be buying one. [emoji1688]
I’ve never liked the look of the scangauge. Especially for the price, but I kinda like the ultra gauge.

I use the Torque App and it shows everything we have a digital sensor reading for. The issue is a lot of our 4Runner's voltage signals are rather archaic and sometimes don't even communicate with the ECU. The fuel levels are one of those, along with the early transmission temp sensors. They just go straight to the dash and the diagnostic port is left in the dark. There is some useful data there like engine temps and things like that but that should never be an issue as long as your radiator is fairly new.

I use it primarily for short term and long term fuel trims for tuning purposes. My 4Runner sorta is a race car, or at least it pretends to be one.

Good to know. Hopefully the trans sensor is hooked up to mine… I know the fuel level isn’t. Would’ve prevented me from running out of gas on many occasions….

Radiator is only a few years old and I just installed a trans cooler after the radiator so should be set. I’d like to know the trans temps for the day I buy a boat. lol

4Runner race car goals [emoji1598]

 

[gamefreakgc]

Starting up the vehicle and testing it after a major job is the hardest part for me, and I really mean that. When I swapped out my engine and put in a JDM I must have sat in the garage double, triple, and quadruple checking it for over an hour before I had the courage to start the engine. I hope everything works for you as well, that looked like quite the job.

 

[sam.basye]

Starting up the vehicle and testing it after a major job is the hardest part for me, and I really mean that. When I swapped out my engine and put in a JDM I must have sat in the garage double, triple, and quadruple checking it for over an hour before I had the courage to start the engine. I hope everything works for you as well, that looked like quite the job.

I’m at that stage right now… now that I have completely installed all the internal parts, and spent hours trying to figure it all out and it all closes up correctly, I felt like I needed to go back through and double check the clutch packs to make sure they aren’t too tight so I don’t get premature wear or drag… it also really bothered me I had to reuse an old clutch plate at the very end and since they’re all similar I may have put the missing one in a different pack.
Sure enough I decided to go back through and pulled half of it back out and found the clutch plate at the bottom of the stack. Only difference between the two rings were a gap every 4th tooth. Got everything spaced and shimmed how I think it should be and pretty confident it’s setup correctly now.
Still have to do the valve body and figure out what two mystery bolts go to..

 

[sam.basye]

Well. I was hoping to have the trans done a couple days ago after I got back from my trip, but.. UPS letting me down. UPS lost the t case shift seat last week. And I just ordered a kickdown cable. Leaking from my broken one on the trans….

Here’s a link to the Amazon tool I used once to get a spring retainer in place in the trans. I had to cut about 3/4” off the handle and each side of the main arm rod to fit through the side of the trans.

Bonbo T-0158 Universal Clutch Drum Spring Compressor Transmission Tool Heavy Duty Steel Amazon.com

Plus side is I got my new untragauge installed today!
A little custom fab work and it’s like it was meant for this spot [emoji1305]

Cut the ball off the mount and tapped it to bolt through the useless square filler panel.

Also got my rebuilt starter installed [emoji1303]

 

[JBurt]

That's an impressive thread. You've got guts I definitely don't. I wish you all the best and am excited to see how it turns out. I've been meaning to install a trans temp gauged for a loong time, but I'd need an analog one.