Nautical Blue Clear Coat Blues

Blue15

Member
I've only had my Nautical Blue 2015 T4R less than 2 months and I've darn near accumulated as many top coat scratches as I had on My 08 Trailblazer after 7 years. This Clear Coat sucks, and if disclosed by the dealer I may not have purchased, I mean who wants their daily driver, their new car looking older than the 7 year old you trade up for.

Any good tips or products for fixing these what seem to becoming common occurrence clear coat rip/tear/gouge/pains in my ass, or whatever name may fit.

I plan on contacting Toyota, and was wondering if anyone else on the forum has contacted Toyota on this soft clear coat issue.

edit for: Forgot to ask, is this problem centered around 5th GEN/year/color or more widespread?
 
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I've only had my Nautical Blue 2015 T4R less than 2 months and I've darn near accumulated as many top coat scratches as I had on My 08 Trailblazer after 7 years. This Clear Coat sucks, and if disclosed by the dealer I may not have purchased, I mean who wants their daily driver, their new car looking older than the 7 year old you trade up for.

Any good tips or products for fixing these what seem to becoming common occurrence clear coat rip/tear/gouge/pains in my ass, or whatever name may fit.

I plan on contacting Toyota, and was wondering if anyone else on the forum has contacted Toyota on this soft clear coat issue.

edit for: Forgot to ask, is this problem centered around 5th GEN/year/color or more widespread?

No, this problem unfortunately is centered around you, me and everyone else who elected politicians that then appointed people to the EPA who were sympathetic to the environment and eventually passed laws that required manufacturers to use less than ideal substandard water based paint and clear coat.

Bottom line, don't blame the manufacturer. Blame yourself, me and everyone else who was hoodwinked by politicians. It's our fault.
 
Must be a newer gen issue but if the dealer won't handle it under warranty as a defect then find somebody who really knows what they are doing to buff it out.

It's not a job for an amateur. Someone who knows what he is doing will use the buffer to heat the clear coat and smooth it out again. Done right the results are amazing. Done wrong it's a disaster.

That said, what is touching your truck to scratch it? Car wash? Clear coat won't scratch by itself. Crappy clear coat can fade or discolor but not scratch.
 
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I have a Nautical Blue SR5P. When I wash it, I don't touch it. I go to my local self serve car wash, wet it down really well. Then I coat it heavily in their pre-soak. Then it's in to the high pressure soap. Next is the Liquid wax. Followed by the spot less rinse. Air dryer is next and then a wet chamois to touch up where the air dryer missed. Not a scratch on it.

All that said, look into Opti-Coat or CQuartz Finest. It's pricey but well worth the protection IMO. Haven't done it to mine yet but I plan on it.
 
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Toyota has used low VOC auto finishing since 2010. So just about every 5th Generation is in the same boat. However, I don't see that most owners are experiencing the problems that the OP describes. Nautical Blue is a tough color, but maybe there is something going on with his rig.

See Toyota's 2010 VOC policy here: Toyota
 
Must be a newer gen issue but if the dealer won't handle it under warranty as a defect then find somebody who really knows what they are doing to buff it out.

It's not a job for an amateur. Someone who knows what he is doing will use the buffer to heat the clear coat and smooth it out again. Done right the results are amazing. Done wrong it's a disaster.

That said, what is touching your truck to scratch it? Car wash? Clear coat won't scratch by itself. Crappy clear coat can fade or discolor but not scratch.

Noting by my hand washing, I can guarantee that. It's go to work and back, and garaged in a clutter free zone; no comparison to a gun free zone, my clutter free zone actually works. I can only suspect others brushing up against the 4R in parking lot at work. That kind of light brush up never affected my last vehicle, so thats why i wonder if this top coat is crap.
 
Scratches can only happen if something scratches it. Who's wife at work are you screwing? :frisky:

Post pics of both her and the scratches.
 
Just some info for those wanting to prevent scratches. If you use a high quality wax or paint sealer (Zaino, Maguire's #7 etc.) and build up a solid foundation, most scratches (unless through the clear and into the paint) will easily come out with the next waxing.

Not just any wax will do. Plus, look into using a claybar if you have already built up a wax base. I am sure that there are threads on here dealing with the same issue, just wanting to pass on what has worked for me for years.
 
Just some info for those wanting to prevent scratches. If you use a high quality wax or paint sealer (Zaino, Maguire's #7 etc.) and build up a solid foundation, most scratches (unless through the clear and into the paint) will easily come out with the next waxing.

Not just any wax will do. Plus, look into using a claybar if you have already built up a wax base. I am sure that there are threads on here dealing with the same issue, just wanting to pass on what has worked for me for years.

I see the quality wax suggested a few times now, I take that on board, after I get these current issue fixed.
 
I have a Nautical Blue SR5P. When I wash it, I don't touch it. I go to my local self serve car wash, wet it down really well. Then I coat it heavily in their pre-soak. Then it's in to the high pressure soap. Next is the Liquid wax. Followed by the spot less rinse. Air dryer is next and then a wet chamois to touch up where the air dryer missed. Not a scratch on it.

All that said, look into Opti-Coat or CQuartz Finest. It's pricey but well worth the protection IMO. Haven't done it to mine yet but I plan on it.
You are definitely adding swirls/micro scratches (at a minimum) to your paint if you are running that chamois across your paint after rinse-only washing. Regardless of what pre-soaks and soaps you are using, the grime is still on your paint, just the heavy stuff gets removed. The only way to safely remove dirt from your paint is a proper 2-bucket method wash. I personally use Optimum No Rinse 100% of the time.

Noting by my hand washing, I can guarantee that. It's go to work and back, and garaged in a clutter free zone; no comparison to a gun free zone, my clutter free zone actually works. I can only suspect others brushing up against the 4R in parking lot at work. That kind of light brush up never affected my last vehicle, so thats why i wonder if this top coat is crap.
What's your technique for hand washing? What products do you use? What wash media? How do you dry? It's basically impossible to avoid swirls/micro scratches and a darker/shiny paint shows them way more. If your paint is actually scratched where your finger nail actual catches, then you don't know how to wash a vehicle. Not saying this is true for you, but we need a little more context to know whether you are OCD, unskilled, or your paint is defective.
 
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lol what is this thing you call washing?

hell I don't even wash mine during the winter and I take it thru a car wash when I am really lazy. otherwise I could care less these days.

long gone is the young days when I would wash it at 10am sunday, and take it to the park and take all day to wax it in the shade.

only reason it took all day, all the girls driving by :)


I worry about more important things these days.
 
I've said this in similar threads...
I try not to look in the direction of my 14' Nauti Blue LE in fear of scratching it. You are not alone!!! Get some Zaino or similar quality wax on...it does help.
 
I guess I have been lucky, knock on wood, 8000 miles and my paint looks perfect. I was looking close this past weekend and could not even find a mark on that thing, which amazes me.
 

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