Need $.02 on ordering flex-plate parts. Help needed

[wettRunner]

I'm in need of a flex-plate change and I know there are a few things to do while to trans is out.
I need advice on WHERE to get the following parts:

-flex-plate/ bolts
-trans fluid (i'll need to replace it correct?)
-rear main seal


If there is anything else you guys recommend let me know.

 

[sandracer33]

I just did this job two weeks ago. Second time in just over 1 year. My advise is go with OEM parts from Camelback (best pricing I found). I used an aftermarket plate from a reliable company that I've used for over 30 years and it cracked in 28K miles. Wasn't worth the $120 I saved the first time.
Get flexplate, the 8 bolts to the crankshaft, and the 6 bolts for the convertor. Mine used the following (should be all the same, but check by Vin.)
Flexplate : 32101-35010
Bolt to crank : 90105-10048, Qty 8
Bolt to convertor : 90119-09009, Qty 5
90119-09010, Qty 1

Also if you are doing rear seal make sure you get the gasket for the retainer plate.
I would look at your transmission mount before you order parts as well. Not too bad to change later, but it will be out anyway.

You don't need to remove the exhaust, so you shouldn't need gaskets there. No need to drop transmission fluid, convertor will stay on the pump if you take your time and are careful.

Good luck, get a competent friend to help you, and have a transmission jack. I did mine by myself in about 6 hours with the truck on the ground. And that included a lunch break.

 

[thegipper]

If you do the rear main seal, I would just replace the seal and not pull off the retaining plate. At least when I did, it was a pain in the ass because I didn't notice you need to remove two of the tranny pan bolts that go into the retainer. I ended up bending the plate and my oil pan...not cool.

If you do want to reseal it, the FSM has you use FIPG (Toyota's RTV) which is what I did (lots of it).

Personally, I would just replace the seal.

Make sure the torque converter is fully seated before you put the tranny back in. In theory, it shouldn't move but just be certain before you reinstall the tranny.

Don't forget to put thread locker on the bolts (8 bolts for flexplate to crank, 6 bolts for flex plate to TC). I used red locktite but blue would probably be fine too. Be sure to slowly bring the bolts up to the torque spec. As in, tighten them up like half way then go around and fully torque them down.

You'll need some super long extensions and swivels to get to some of the top bell housing bolts (top starter bolts too). You'll basically be working blind.

Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions. Someone usually responds pretty quick on here if you run into any trouble.

 

[wettRunner]

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys. My manager agreed to help me in exchange for a 33 gal. compressor I got for a good deal on craigslist a while back. (It's too large for what I need anyway) Should be a two day, after work job. Fingers crossed. I'll be posting pictures of the process on my recently started, build thread.

 

[sandracer33]

If you do the rear main seal, I would just replace the seal and not pull off the retaining plate. At least when I did, it was a pain in the ass because I didn't notice you need to remove two of the tranny pan bolts that go into the retainer. I ended up bending the plate and my oil pan...not cool.

If you do want to reseal it, the FSM has you use FIPG (Toyota's RTV) which is what I did (lots of it).




Mine had a gasket, probably Fel-Pro, which explains why it was leaking. I did use FIPG when I put it back together. Guess I should nut up and buy a factory manual!

 

[thegipper]

If you do some searching, you can usually find the PDF of the FSM floating around the interwebs....

 

[wettRunner]

I just did this job two weeks ago. Second time in just over 1 year. My advise is go with OEM parts from Camelback (best pricing I found). I used an aftermarket plate from a reliable company that I've used for over 30 years and it cracked in 28K miles. Wasn't worth the $120 I saved the first time.
Get flexplate, the 8 bolts to the crankshaft, and the 6 bolts for the convertor. Mine used the following (should be all the same, but check by Vin.)
Flexplate : 32101-35010
Bolt to crank : 90105-10048, Qty 8
Bolt to convertor : 90119-09009, Qty 5
90119-09010, Qty 1

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gear~sub~assy~drive~plate~ring~32101-35010.html?Make=Toyota&Model=4Runner&Year=1999&Submodel=&Filter=(1=5VZFE;4=LULI;5=ATM;6=4FC;0=VZN180L-GKPZKA)
Just found this plate, do you guys think its a quality replacement?

 

[thegipper]

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gear~sub~assy~drive~plate~ring~32101-35010.html?Make=Toyota&Model=4Runner&Year=1999&Submodel=&Filter=(1=5VZFE;4=LULI;5=ATM;6=4FC;0=VZN180L-GKPZKA)
Just found this plate, do you guys think its a quality replacement?

Looks like an OEM flexplate so yes, that's the one you want.

Did you ever pull the inspection cover off and verify for sure that the flexplate is in fact cracked or broken?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Guess who has a ticking noise this morning at idle and low loads?

<----- This guy

I've never taken off the inspection plate, is it tricky or straightforward? This transmission was replaced by the previous owner, I'm guessing the dowels are gone.

 

[thegipper]

Guess who has a ticking noise this morning at idle and low loads?

<----- This guy

I've never taken off the inspection plate, is it tricky or straightforward? Needed an excuse to put a lightweight flywheel in anyway. This transmission was replaced by the previous owner, I'm guessing the dowels are gone.

There are four 12mm bolts that hold the inspection cover on. One of them is a total nightmare to get to, the other 3 aren't too bad.

A long handle, swivel head, ratcheting 12mm wrench really helps with that one bolt that is a pain to get to.

Some people don't seem to have any problem getting the bolts off. If you have large hands ( I have bear mitts), its a PITA. The steering rack is right in the way and I can barely even get my hands past it to get to the bolts.

Once you have it off, have a helper turn the engine over (crank bolt and breaker bar) slowly so you can inspect it.

I'm not aware of any light weight flex plates on the market. I would stick with an OEM one, aftermarket flex plates seem to never hold up and who the hell wants to pull the tranny back out after 20k miles.

 

[gamefreakgc]

There are four 12mm bolts that hold the inspection cover on. One of them is a total nightmare to get to, the other 3 aren't too bad.

A long handle, swivel head, ratcheting 12mm wrench really helps with that one bolt that is a pain to get to.

Some people don't seem to have any problem getting the bolts off. If you have large hands ( I have bear mitts), its a PITA. The steering rack is right in the way and I can barely even get my hands past it to get to the bolts.

Once you have it off, have a helper turn the engine over (crank bolt and breaker bar) slowly so you can inspect it.

I'm not aware of any light weight flex plates on the market. I would stick with an OEM one, aftermarket flex plates seem to never hold up and who the hell wants to pull the tranny back out after 20k miles.

Yeah I got excited at looking at LCE's flywheels, when I realized they were all flywheels lol!

Well that's a place to start, I can do a few bolts. Will post back after the weekend I think.

 

[barongan]

an interesting question. I too was looking for it

 

[wettRunner]

Finally got around to ordering parts.
$275 with shipping for the bolts and flexplate.
I will be getting the rear main seal from napa, and changing the transfer case fluid as well as the differentials.
Trans gets dropped Thursday after work.
I'll be posting pics

 

[MOYotas]

When I did an engine swap on my old 00 Limited, I did what the guys above mentioned but also changed out the transmission input shaft seal (pump seal?). It's the seal that between the transmission and torque converter on the input shaft. It was recommended by one of my local autoparts store. I bought it from them and was around $8-10 IIRC.

 

[wettRunner]

When I did an engine swap on my old 00 Limited, I did what the guys above mentioned but also changed out the transmission input shaft seal (pump seal?). It's the seal that between the transmission and torque converter on the input shaft. It was recommended by one of my local autoparts store. I bought it from them and was around $8-10 IIRC.

So if I pull the torque converter off to replace the seal, do I need to replace the transmission fluid?

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'm in need of a flex-plate change and I know there are a few things to do while to trans is out.
I need advice on WHERE to get the following parts:

-flex-plate/ bolts
-trans fluid (i'll need to replace it correct?)
-rear main seal


If there is anything else you guys recommend let me know.

When your flexplate failed, was it a gradual thing or did it just start knocking one day and never stopped?

I ask because I had one day last week (when I posted) where it knocked at startup for 10 seconds, then down the street for about 5 seconds, then for 1-2 minutes that day on the freeway. Since then, I haven't heard anything. Not sure if that means it was a fluke, or perhaps it was something else entirely. Was directly linked to engine load though, if I let off the gas the sound stopped. Was that how yours was?

 

[wettRunner]

When your flexplate failed, was it a gradual thing or did it just start knocking one day and never stopped?

I ask because I had one day last week (when I posted) where it knocked at startup for 10 seconds, then down the street for about 5 seconds, then for 1-2 minutes that day on the freeway. Since then, I haven't heard anything. Not sure if that means it was a fluke, or perhaps it was something else entirely. Was directly linked to engine load though, if I let off the gas the sound stopped. Was that how yours was?

It was a slowly progressing knock. Like you said, the first few times it was hardly noticeable. Then it became a regular thing at MOST stop lights when the engine was warm. Now once its warm it pretty much always has a light knock only at idle.

Hope that helps

 

[thegipper]

When your flexplate failed, was it a gradual thing or did it just start knocking one day and never stopped?

I ask because I had one day last week (when I posted) where it knocked at startup for 10 seconds, then down the street for about 5 seconds, then for 1-2 minutes that day on the freeway. Since then, I haven't heard anything. Not sure if that means it was a fluke, or perhaps it was something else entirely. Was directly linked to engine load though, if I let off the gas the sound stopped. Was that how yours was?

When my buddy broke his flexplate (several actually because he used aftermarket ones) I was actually with him when the second one cracked. It only initially made a very faint ticking noise and it didn't always do it. Over the next few weeks it got progressively worse until it was very apparent it was broken.

It's not too bad to get the inspection cover off (with the tools I suggested), I'd take a look just to be certain either way.

 

[MOYotas]

So if I pull the torque converter off to replace the seal, do I need to replace the transmission fluid?

Sorry I was traveling for work these past few days. You'll lose some fluid when taking the TC off. At least I did but I was pulling the motor and didn't unbolt the TC when I pulled it so it leaked some fluid. If you're pulling the transmission to change the flex plate and unbolt the TC from the flex plate prior to pulling it you might not loose much fluid at all. Either way its easy to refill with new fluid.

 

[gamefreakgc]

When my buddy broke his flexplate (several actually because he used aftermarket ones) I was actually with him when the second one cracked. It only initially made a very faint ticking noise and it didn't always do it. Over the next few weeks it got progressively worse until it was very apparent it was broken.

It's not too bad to get the inspection cover off (with the tools I suggested), I'd take a look just to be certain either way.

Took the inspection cover off and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. I could see all the circular cut-outs and they were fine, as well as deeper to where it bolts to the engine and it is 100% intact with no cracks. Now what? Is there a change it's only cracking around the engine bolts and I cannot see it?

One thing I didn't do (doh) was check the bolts on the transmission. I suppose one could have come loose.

Is there anything else that can cause the noise? I only notice it under light load. A few times I hear it on the freeway at 2100 RPM, or when first starting the car at around 1200 RPM. The sound does change with RPM.

If it gets louder and more consistent I'll get a video recording of it.

EDIT: I moved the car and the hood was open, it was very loud. Lasted for about 10 seconds coming from the back of the engine but sounded like the top. I don't think it was the flexplate at all, I think it's valve knock on the passenger's side. I need to let the oil drain out again and see if I can pinpoint the noise. Might do a compression check too.