Need complete rear axle assembly...

Dewyz1100

Dewyz1100

New member
I have a 1998 4Runner SR5 with ABS that all but the A/V system is bone stock...161k miles...

While attempting to gain a PA inspection, it was brought to my attention that not only were my rear axles internal oil seals leaking (that also means a rear brake job as well), but the axle housing on or around the pumpkin cover was beginning to drip axle grease.

Diving deeper into the void, I find out that this pumpkin cover is not removable, or replaceable, as my axle is not an electric locker model and the cover is integrated part of the axle housing or "tube"...

So I am left with three alternatives as I see it...

One, I can search the bone yards and u-pull-it places for a used assembly off a wreaked 4Runner. All the while betting that the "new" axle does not have the same issue(s) as my current one does - possibly wasting time, money, and effort in the process. Least amount of money to start - most amount of time, money, and hassle if the worst case was to unfold...

Two, I can spend over $800 on an OEM replacement axle housing and pay a shop to re-populate it with the current axle's internal components, replacing seals and perhaps bearings along the way...essentially balancing out of pocket money and personal time and effort spent...

Three, I can spend much more and get an axle assembly from a "rock crawler" parts website that is likely to be built with much higher quality than that of OEM parts...not a bad thing by any means, but highest on the price and piece of mind scales, and lowest in the personal time and effort department.

Any thoughts?

-1st time 4Runner owner, and newbie to the forum...
 
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Forgot that option in the original post...

Yes, and I have also seen other forum posts for this along with the "clean it" and "JB weld it" option...

However, both present their own problems as I see it...

First, the "weld it" option would be the best if not for a couple things to take into account. If the metal is that thin to begin with (either by factory design, or by over a decade worth of highway salt exposure) chances are good that a welder would blow through the thin material, possibly getting molten steel onto the gears within. Then there is the whole "gear oil is flammable" issue...in either case, the only safe way to go about this option would be to completely disassemble the axle, spray clean all surfaces of any grease, then attempt the weld...

Second, the "clean it and JB weld it" option would not likely fly with most inspection places here in PA... We are talking about the same guys that are threatening to fail the truck because of two small rust holes in the wheel wells...nothing structure related, noting flapping in the breeze, nothing to come off and damage my vehicle or any one else on the road...

Don't get me wrong, I am glad they found my leaking axle as I want to fix these issues...but when they fail a truck for two small rust holes in a rocker panel I think they are being a bit anal...

I guess I am also wondering how long either of these options would hold up to road vibration, and the pot holes that come along with roads in PA and NY where I travel frequently... I would hate to do any of this work all over again - no time...

Thanks for the input, but I had already dismissed these options... :)
 
I don't have any help for you but I wonder what Toyota was thinking with the pumpkin. I have seen several threads with the pumpkin rusting through and have never heard of this on any other vehicle.
 
What were they thinking...

Design engineers never design anything to last forever, and they rarely design something so that it can easily be serviced...Throw into that corporate cost saving measures like using a smaller gauge steel, or using lower quality steel all around...you get premature parts failure that drives higher profits in dealer repair departments.

Perhaps they figured since there was no electric locker mechanism to service, that someone could just pull the 3rd member out of the axle housing to get at the gears... After all they did put both a drain, and fill plug for the gear oil... I have worked on other differentials, and they had fill plugs, but to drain the oil, one had to remove the pumpkin cover plate.

Sadly, the parts are expensive... So any new axle housing that goes under my truck will have the exterior cleaned completely, and several coats of chip guard applied to prevent any rust in the future from forming... It just sucks that we are forced to do this without some relief from a recall program.

My fiance owned a Tacoma once that had the famous frame rail rot issues... She scrapped the truck to a junkyard (still owing over $10k on the truck) only to find out several months later that they issued a recall for the problem. However, they did not recall the thousands of dollars that she still owed on a truck that was no longer in her possession due to the problem...

Rust sucks...
 
I'm in PA also. Do a decent job with the JB Weld and you shouldn't have an issue. If they're threatening to fail it for the wheel well rust you probably want to find someone else to inspect it. That's a little ridiculous.
 
I'd agree - there's always someone else out there willing to pass it. LOL

(I AM being serious, though; VA was a lot more stringent than MO's inspection process, and they would fail a lightbulb for being out, but they sort of didn't care about the fact that a battery I had was CRACKED IN HALF. lol)
 
Gear oil has a very high flashpoint (375-580 F) and according to the discussion linked below it will smoke but not ignite during the weld.

www.WheelingArizona.com • View topic - Anyone know if gear oil is flammable?


I can spend much more and get an axle assembly from a "rock crawler" parts website that is likely to be built with much higher quality than that of OEM parts
Click to expand...

Just my opinion but if your Toyota differential gears are still good AND you are not a major hardcore wheeler then you will want to keep them. I say this because I rarely hear of a broken rear diff on this site and plenty of members go offroad quite often with the stock gears. Toyota did a pretty good job engineering these parts. Basically .. while the rock crawler parts may be "heavier duty" I am not convinced they are better engineered or will last as long (200k) under normal usage.


While attempting to gain a PA inspection
Click to expand...
Funny how people are always bashing CA for our "strict laws" which are actually quite lax compared to some other states. Out here a vehicle inspection doesn't involve anything like what you guys have to go through. I have K&N, mods o-plenty, full exhaust but as long as it passes smog then it is good.

:bat:
 
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I'd say have it welded. I'm in school right now for welding and they have us welding on some pretty thin sheet metal at times. So someone with some decent experience welding should easily be able to weld it up for you.
 
the E locker diffs dont have a cover either. Most toyota axles do not have a cover and just have a removable 3rd member. THe e locker is a basic toyota 8 just like you have, but with a notch on the 3rd member mounting side to get the motor in.

The main deal with the cover is that some axles require you to install the gears directly in the housing (PITA for gear setup) or the axles have c clips... You could have someone weld it. Its not a huge deal. Or find a used housing. You should be able to pick one up cheap
 
My thanks...

Thanks for all the insight folks...

I crawled underneath the truck this evening armed with a flashlight, brake cleaner, paper towels, and some JB weld...

Upon further inspection, the specific area where the oil is leaking is in the center of (what would have been) the diff cover - just below a bracket that the e-brake cable running left to right travels through.

I cleaned it up best I could without breaking out a grinder, or wire brush... Hopefully the JB weld will seal/hold long enough to do something more permanent...

I am sure my entire 3rd member is fine - it is likely that the bearings are as well - because aside from the visible leakage, there is no noticeable vibrations or noises while driving at highways speeds over 70mph...

I still plan on replacing the bearing with the seals, but unless the 3rd member has some melt down from now until when the work can be done, I am planning on re-using that.

A new housing still has a great appeal, as it would not have any rust, and I could properly coat it with protective coatings before it goes into the truck...

I will keep posting the updates...!
 
That's the way I dealt with mine at first, brake cleaner and JB weld. It sealed pretty well, but I didn't leave it like that for more than a few months.

When you get a chance, you should definitely clean this thing up properly and redo the JB weld. you also might consider draining and refilling your gear oil, just to make sure you don't have any chunks from running the gear oil too low. Replace your crush washers too.
 
So i have a 2000 toyota 4runner 4wd and my rear axle "cover" part of the housing rusted out and drained the grease out and the pinion got hot and got damaged I'm looking for a replacement carrier assembly 4.10 gear without locker please help new to the 4runner community
 
Charger164 said:
So i have a 2000 toyota 4runner 4wd and my rear axle "cover" part of the housing rusted out and drained the grease out and the pinion got hot and got damaged I'm looking for a replacement carrier assembly 4.10 gear without locker please help new to the 4runner community
Click to expand...

You can get one without a locker fairly common at salvage yards or some one parting out on Craigslist.
 
Better to source this on your own if you can, lots of 4.10's out there.
Shipping will be crazy if you need it delivered.
 
Toyota axles are designed way better than any diff with a cover on it. Covers leak and are a pain to drain and fill.

This is coming from a guy who owns a 4Runner with a Dana 60 rearend. And yes mine has leaked gear oil too.

The only real benefit of a cover is you get to inspect the condition of the gears fairly easily.
 
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