Need help diagnosing a problem

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fblainen11

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I've a 2wd 97 sr5 auto v6. I have 180k on her. I replaced a rear ujoint last week.
This week I've a problem that is coming back. Several months ago I had a problem with the engine revving but the power not making it to the wheels. It would rev up to 3,000 rpm's and would be at 10 mph.

Fast forward 6 months and my wife is driving it and having the same problem. I asked her about the coolant and the color seems one. It should because I replaced the radiator last year. I've never changed the transmission fluid. However, the transmission was rebuilt about 3 years ago.

Any clue on what this could be? The solenoids in the transmission were all replaced. Could one be going bad again?
I've also read it could be a throttle position sensor. Seems unlikely but I guess it could affect something. Any tips would be helpful. My wife is pregnant and living two hours away from me for the next month or so.

Thanks!


I wanted to add that I've no CEL. Also, if it's important I've always thought my kickdown cable was in a strange position. It seems to have more "slack" than it needs. Maybe this could exacerbate a TPS. Or maybe causing the problem altogether. Between the previously and present issues it seems to run perfect with no problems.
 
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TPS should present with having issues revving and/or idling. Sounds to me like a bad torque converter. I don't believe that they're a common issue on these but based on the symptoms you're describing that would be my best guess. Who rebuilt the trans? Might be worth going back to them for them to have a look.
 
A transmission shop in town. I still have the receipt but the 4runner is 2 hours away right now.

I'm going to drain and replace transmission fluid first and ensure it's at the proper level. We'll see how it goes from there. The local dealership has done some work for me in the past. I'll have them take a look at it. $35 fee to have them look at it if I do the work.
 
sounds like tc slipping

Yeah, i would Flush tranny, maybe put a magnefine filter on it (OEM screen really doesn't catch small particles) and refill with Toyo brand fluid. A genuine flush/refill has helped Many people with a variety of tranny issues. Best of Luck1
 
fblainen11 said:
I've a 2wd 97 sr5 auto v6. I have 180k on her. engine revving but the power not making it to the wheels. It would rev up to 3,000 rpm's and would be at 10 mph.
Click to expand...

Had a similar problem in a 1990 Toyota Camry. After replacing the transmission, solenoids, and transmission again - the shop realized it had missed a third solenoid hidden behind the dashboard, which was the culprit. I would carefully double-check the work performed by your mechanic against the Haynes manual to ensure they repaired/replaced all the necessary electrical components with your tranny rebuild. Just because something should have been done in the first repair doesn't necessarily mean it was. Best of luck.
 
It was the previous owner. Are the solenoids difficult to replace? I was planning on dropping the pan and replacing the seal soon anyways.

Also, are there any risks involved in flushing the transmission? I've heard particles can get stuck in places and cause more problems. Any input on that? My plan was just to change it.
 
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My wife dropped it off at the dealership.

They called and told me that they were able to recreate the problem. I expected such as it was giving my wife consistent problems.
They said the pan needs to be dropped then inspect the transmission. If it checks okay then replace the filter, flush fluid, and then replace the seal.

He stated the fluid is dirty and there was trash in it. This could somehow create pressure changes (or something) or mess with the torque converter. He also mentioned a detent cable may be the issue. Ive never heard of this before.

Anyways, they wanted $500 and some change....about $240 in labor. I know I can do it myself and save money...but I cant flush it like they'll be able to. Also, I'm not too experienced with transmissions so I don't know what to look for once I'm in there.

Any input? This is where I planned on starting in troubleshooting...
 
Update: Panned dropped, flushed, seal replaced, put back together, spent money, same problem.

I haven't driven it much, but my wife says it drives fine until it warms up. Any idea on what would cause this problem to present itself only after warming up?
 
I drove the vehicle for the first time and experienced the problem first hand. It seems that the transmission will shift fine....usually. However occasionally it will stay in first gear and not shift out of it.

Sounds like a solenoid problem to me. Anyone else?
 
Just out of cynical curiosity:

1. How long have you owned the car?
2. How well do you know its history?
3. How new looking is your radiator?

I may have more to say when I see your answers.
 
I've owned the vehicle for over a year now. It had some transmission work done before I purchased it from a local shop. I have the paperwork. I'm not exactly sure what was done but I believe it was solenoids.

The radiator looks brand new because it is brand new as of about 3 months ago.
Other than that I don't know the history extremely well, but I've no reason to believe it wasnt taken care or decently prior to me owning it. I am the third owner. I've replaced timing belt, water pump etc all in the last year for good measure.


I've been fixing the problem temporarily by putting the vehicle in N waiting for a couple seconds (10-20) then placing it back in D. Typically it will start working like normal again. Mind you that it is difficult to reproduce this. The dealership had it for two days and they put over 40 miles without being able to reproduce the problem.
 
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jgue467 said:
if you left off the accelerator, will it shift then?
Click to expand...


I haven't really driven enough to try this, but my wife has. I believe the answer is no, but how long would this mandate being off the accelerator and can you advise where you may be going with this?
 
fblainen11 said:
I've owned the vehicle for over a year now. It had some transmission work done before I purchased it from a local shop. I have the paperwork. I'm not exactly sure what was done but I believe it was solenoids.

The radiator looks brand new because it is brand new as of about 3 months ago.
Other than that I don't know the history extremely well, but I've no reason to believe it wasnt taken care or decently prior to me owning it. I am the third owner. I've replaced timing belt, water pump etc all in the last year for good measure.


I've been fixing the problem temporarily by putting the vehicle in N waiting for a couple seconds (10-20) then placing it back in D. Typically it will start working like normal again. Mind you that it is difficult to reproduce this. The dealership had it for two days and they put over 40 miles without being able to reproduce the problem.
Click to expand...

New rad, recent unspecified transmission work, unknown history...

OK. My cynical side tells me you MAY have bought a truck which has been the victim of something called the "pink milkshake". Search on the phrase to learn the ugly details. Simply, it is when a defect in these radiators causes coolant and transmission fluid to mix. Pretty much a tranny-killer. Plenty of people with experience on here who can advise you better than yours truly, a hard-core M/T guy.
 
well I just asked because I've had another car do the same thing, albeit different brand and all yet only when it was a cold morning would it occassionaly not perform the 1-2 shift, if I let off the throttle for just a moment (1-2 secs) it would shift and then I'd go about depressing throttle again and all was good. After a flush/refill all was well - that's all - hoping for a simple/inexpensive fix. I re-read your original post- I don't like what seems to be 'slipping' (like pitbullrescuer said torque converter).

I'm no tranny expert - anyone else care to lend a mind?
 
TheDurk said:
New rad, recent unspecified transmission work, unknown history...

OK. My cynical side tells me you MAY have bought a truck which has been the victim of something called the "pink milkshake". Search on the phrase to learn the ugly details. Simply, it is when a defect in these radiators causes coolant and transmission fluid to mix. Pretty much a tranny-killer. Plenty of people with experience on here who can advise you better than yours truly, a hard-core M/T guy.
Click to expand...


Pink milkshake doesn't make too much sense. I'm aware of what it is. However, I had it for a while after transmission work was completed and the radiator worked fine. It was the original radiator. I replaced the radiator on my own because I knew that this was a problem that could arise. I probably should have done the cooler, but I may not have this vehicle in 5 years so I chose to just stick with rad replacement.
My understanding of the pink milkshake problem would have included a new radiator to fix the problem and this hasn't presented itself since then.

I don't think it's a torque converter. I feel like its definately something keeping it from shifting out of first.
 
jgue467 said:
well I just asked because I've had another car do the same thing, albeit different brand and all yet only when it was a cold morning would it occassionaly not perform the 1-2 shift, if I let off the throttle for just a moment (1-2 secs) it would shift and then I'd go about depressing throttle again and all was good. After a flush/refill all was well - that's all - hoping for a simple/inexpensive fix. I re-read your original post- I don't like what seems to be 'slipping' (like pitbullrescuer said torque converter).

I'm no tranny expert - anyone else care to lend a mind?
Click to expand...


Thanks for the input. Question: if it were a torque converter problem would it be slipping at all times? It's really between 1-2 shifts. I can be in OD and accelerate quickly from 2nd gear at 2500-3800 rpm's and be fine. (I rarely take her over 3000 rpm. If 3k.
 
Well, it looks like this problem has been solved. I had the pan dropped, flushed, and resealed. I didn't get a chance to do it because my wife has it and was living 2 hours away. After about 4 weeks I noticed that the pan was leaking. I brought it back to the shop and had them repair their leak (under warranty). While they had it they adjusted the detent cable (I always thought it was a knockdown cable but they called it a detent cable). After this leak fix and cable adjustment I've head 0 problems knock on wood and it is shifting smoother than ever.
 
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