NEED HELP! Hub install

[Antman]

I need some help here...

I'm installing a new driver's side hub/bearing assembly. I thought everything was ok, went for a test drive and the brake disc is rubbing on the heatshield on hard right turns.

So- I get under the truck and notice a gap between the end of the CV joint where it meets up to the spindle. (see pic- it's the black greasy line).

Now, I took it all apart again. I can eliminate the gap when the hub is off. When I start to tighten the 4 bolts that hold the hub on it opens the gap back up again. I tried pulling the axle tight with the castle nut to eliminate the gap, but as soon as the 4 hub bolts are tightened it opens the gap again.

Simple repair taking me all damn day, and now I'm gonna need a ride to work tmrw. Damn!

Any ideas?? [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] [MENTION=6387]scott@Hightec[/MENTION]

 

[Doc_Fry]

I need some help here...

I'm installing a new driver's side hub/bearing assembly. I thought everything was ok, went for a test drive and the brake disc is rubbing on the heatshield on hard right turns.

So- I get under the truck and notice a gap between the end of the CV joint where it meets up to the spindle. (see pic- it's the black greasy line).

Now, I took it all apart again. I can eliminate the gap when the hub is off. When I start to tighten the 4 bolts that hold the hub on it opens the gap back up again. I tried pulling the axle tight with the castle nut to eliminate the gap, but as soon as the 4 hub bolts are tightened it opens the gap again.

Simple repair taking me all damn day, and now I'm gonna need a ride to work tmrw. Damn!

Any ideas?? [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] [MENTION=6387]scott@Hightec[/MENTION]
View attachment 142577

View attachment 142576

What did you torque the spindle nut too? When lifted pull and push on the tire does it move.

I did have a problem on mine where the actual axel rubbed after I installed a lift, hubs etc. i had to drop my diff to get rid of the rub.

Steve

 

[Ryanvk]

Are you sure your axle nut is tight enough?

 

[gm350reratliff]

Maybe try lubing the splines on the end of the cv with grease or anti-seize.

 

[Titanpat57]

I'll come and get you dumbazz...


how about you leave the f'in repairs to the professionals :flamethrwoer2:

 

[harper7]

Since you didn't ask me ...I won't tell you...lol
It wasn't that hard.
Did you match up the old hub to the new hub to make sure they are the same as part numbers can get mixed up?
Maybe an o-ring is caught?
Here's the order they go and torques from the manual....
1. INSTALL FRONT AXLE HUB SUB-ASSEMBLY LH

(a) Apply MP grease to a new O-ring.

(b) Install the O-ring to the axle hub.

(c) Install the dust cover and axle hub to the steering knuckle with the 4 bolts.

Torque: 80 N·m (816 kgf·cm, 59ft·lbf)
2. INSTALL FRONT AXLE SHAFT NUT

(a) Clean the threaded parts on the drive shaft and axle shaft nut using a non-residue solvent.

(b) Install the front axle shaft nut.

Torque: 235 N·m (2396 kgf·cm, 173ft·lbf)
(c) Install the adjusting cap and cotter pin.

3. INSTALL FRONT AXLE HUB GREASE CAP

(a) Install the axle hub grease cap.

NOTICE:
Make sure the grease cap is securely installed to the axle hub.

4. INSTALL FRONT DISC BRAKE (FRONT): FRONT BRAKE: INSTALLATION (2010 4Runner)+

5. INSTALL DISC BRAKE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY LH

 

[Antman]

Since you didn't ask me ...I won't tell you...lol
It wasn't that hard.
Did you match up the old hub to the new hub to make sure they are the same as part numbers can get mixed up?
Maybe an o-ring is caught?
Here's the order they go and torques from the manual....

Ha! Sorry Gary. You haven't been on here much lately that I've seen!

I ordered the hub from bluepitbearings as a complete assembly. Even when I install the old assembly I get the same gap.

When it's all together and tight I can push on the hub and hear and see a little play. Shouldn't be any. It's like the axle shaft won't pull out of the hub far enough

I'm confused

 

[Antman]

What did you torque the spindle nut too? When lifted pull and push on the tire does it move.

I did have a problem on mine where the actual axel rubbed after I installed a lift, hubs etc. i had to drop my diff to get rid of the rub.

Steve

Are you sure your axle nut is tight enough?

My torque wrench only goes to 150, but I tightened that castle nut TIGHT.

When everything is together there is still in/out play.

 

[Doc_Fry]

My torque wrench only goes to 150, but I tightened that castle nut TIGHT.

When everything is together there is still in/out play.

I had o use am impact wrench to get mine all the way down. Mayb stop by a shop and have them hit it with a wrench? May help pull it in just that last little bit.

 

[Antman]

I had o use am impact wrench to get mine all the way down. Mayb stop by a shop and have them hit it with a wrench? May help pull it in just that last little bit.

I dunno. I have an electric impact rated at 240 ft/lb and it zipped the castle nut off like nothing. It feels like something is physically keeping that axle from pulling tight. If I tighten the castle nut first it won't pull the hub tight against the mating surface, the dust shield will still be loose. Then I tighten the 4 hub bolts and I get the dreaded gap. WTF

I appreciate all these ideas/help guys!

 

[dekeman]

Could the brake dust cover be on backwards? From the diagram, looks easy to have it 180 the wrong way.

 

[Antman]

Could the brake dust cover be on backwards? From the diagram, looks easy to have it 180 the wrong way.

I was thinking that too but I don't believe it is. Need to verify.

Could also be that I cleaned the axle with wd40 and it was still slightly wet. I'm wondering if hydraulic pressure between the splines is keeping the axle from seating fully?

Right now I need to try again after work tomorrow and let it sit. Its driving me nuts for sure.

 

[1engineer]

I was thinking that too but I don't believe it is. Need to verify.

Could also be that I cleaned the axle with wd40 and it was still slightly wet. I'm wondering if hydraulic pressure between the splines is keeping the axle from seating fully?

Right now I need to try again after work tomorrow and let it sit. Its driving me nuts for sure.

No. There is enough room in the spline fit for drainage. I think you have something wrong or backwards.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I usually have to hit some of those axle nuts with my Snap-On 1/2" impact (well over 200+ ft/lbs) to get them to seat properly on some vehicles. What I find helps a lot is to take a wire brush and scrub the hell out of the splines on the hub and axle, wash them down in parts wash, and then lightly grease them. I have a feeling the axle is just not being tightened down enough.

It's a bit hard to tell from your pictures though.

 

[Doc_Fry]

I usually have to hit some of those axle nuts with my Snap-On 1/2" impact (well over 200+ ft/lbs) to get them to seat properly on some vehicles. What I find helps a lot is to take a wire brush and scrub the hell out of the splines on the hub and axle, wash them down in parts wash, and then lightly grease them. I have a feeling the axle is just not being tightened down enough.

It's a bit hard to tell from your pictures though.

I have a feeling this is where your problem lies. Unless the seal somehow got in the way. I hate, hate sealed bearings. Miss the days of geing able to rebuild them.

 

[Biggcrisp]

Any chance you got a RH instead of a LH. I have no clue.

173 Ft lbs. is cheater bar or impact territory though.

 

[nevada]

did the new hub come with an O-ring? is it possible the old one is still in place?

 

[Antman]

did the new hub come with an O-ring? is it possible the old one is still in place?

No- only the new O ring on there.

Thanks though!

 

[Antman]

Ok- let's update this.

First of all THANK YOU to everyone that has chimed in and spent time both on here and on the phone with me!

I came home today and wirebrushed all the rust off the spindle (wasn't much really) and all mating surfaces. Lightly greased the shaft. Tightened it all down.....same thing. Also noted significant play at the hub with everything TIGHT.

I took a video of the play and sent it to Andy at Bluepitbearings, who is a super nice guy and has returned EVERY phone call. Andy agrees that the new bearing is now shot and is sending another one FREE as long as I send the ruined bearing back to him. Great customer service there!

He seems to think the axle was bound up somehow when I tightened the hub down and that's what ruined the bearing. I disagree with this because the axle spun freely the entire time and the hub bolts were tightened by hand criss/cross until they touched the hub, but let's see what the experts say?

Meanwhile, I noticed that the flanges inside the inner bearings are different. Andy says this is not a problem. Again, what do you guys think? Factory bearing is top pic.








In the meantime, 4Runner is gonna rest until at LEAST Saturday when the new bearing arrives.

What the heck happened here???
Stay tuned...

 

[Biggcrisp]

Those splines appear to be deeper in the factory bearing. Can you put a straight edge across and measure in? May just be the photo.

Hate to see you waiting longer if those bearings are a no-go.