Need help, new C/O lift, is it too high???

[swapmeet]

Ok, I JUST finished installing the Toytec "Boss" coillver setup. 07 SR5, 4x4.

Pic attached.

There were no directions for the Boss Coilover kit on toytec's site so I used the ultimate because it appears to be the same basic kit.

The instructions say its set up for 2.5" of lift. It also says in bold print "Do not exceed 3" of lift!"

So I get finished and check my measurements. Before numbers were bone stock. Tires are 265/65/17 for both.

Before. ----> After
Driver front: 32 7/8 ---> 37 1/2
Pass front. 32 7/8. ----> 37
Driver rear 34 1/2 ----> 37 5/8
Pass rear 35 1/2 ----> 38 1/2

That was immediately after setting it down. So I wasn't sure how much it might settle. Either way, ~4.5" of lift on the front seems like a lot.

What's the scoop y'all? Should I be cranking on those coilovers?

Thanks in advance.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

Got a pic of your CV's? it looks fine to me from the pic i can see, hows the steering feel? if you're solid all around after an alignment then id say leave them

 

[swapmeet]

Thanks for the quick reply. Pass side inner CV is touching, but oddly (to me anyway) the others look great. I didn't install the dif drop because I've seen so many ppl say don't mess with it etc. It has a lot I'd positive camber.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

Thanks for the quick reply. Pass side inner CV is rubbing. It has a lot I'd positive camber.

if you had to guess the angle from horizontal, what would you think

 

[swapmeet]

I dunno, maybe a degree on the passenger side, 1.5 on the drivers?
I've had a car with 3 degrees and that's a whole bunch.

Trying to upload a pic of the suspect boot. Standby.

 

[Stuck CAPS]

if you had to guess the angle from horizontal, what would you think

Lol, sorry for the thread jack OP but [MENTION=87539]wnelax04sr5[/MENTION] I've seen your posts a lot but just now noticed "I used to have a girl, but she found out I didn't have the v8." That's great!

To OP: I think 3" lift may be the coil heights, because up front, I'm pretty sure 1" spacer = 2" lift. And don't worry as much about the rear. The concern with 3" is the CV angles. IMHO there's no reason NOT to install the diff drop with a good amount of lift. It'll allow for CV's to last longer (as there's not as much stress) and it should, at least to some extent, deter your diff from exploding if you bounce a little.

 

[ebg18t]

For comparison I am running a larger tire, but I am at 40" ground to fender in the front. If you search for my ride height thread you will see fender to center of wheels. That thread will give you some comparisons.

Heck here it is for you: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/144737-lift-vs-ride-height-list.html

 

[wnelax04sr5]

I dunno, maybe a degree on the passenger side, 1.5 on the drivers?
I've had a car with 3 degrees and that's a whole bunch.

Trying to upload a pic of the suspect boot. Standby.

in my unprofessional opinion, i would say that you are safe, so long as nothing binds and they aren't extreme

 

[swapmeet]

So you think I'm not too bad off?

Btw, here is the passenger inner boot.


Sorry for the giant pic.... Straight off my phone.

If it matters, I took it for a quick shake down run. I left the front anti-sway bar off and did some tight circles to see if the body roll bothered me. I didn't hear anything clicking, popping or grinding. And I was really listening.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

yeah [MENTION=105591]swapmeet[/MENTION] you're fine, i wouldn't worry about it at all

 

[Stuck CAPS]

For comparison I am running a larger tire, but I am at 40" ground to fender in the front. If you search for my ride height thread you will see fender to center of wheels. That thread will give you some comparisons.

Heck here it is for you: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/144737-lift-vs-ride-height-list.html

And on another note: The tire thing is always a big thing to come to play here, so it's honestly more reliable to measure from center cap to fender, as you can then figure out the change in suspension height. That could actually tell you if you're running too much lift for the CV's!
Edit: Comment meant for OP, I just quote [MENTION=86678]ebg18t[/MENTION] as it directly correlated to your post.

 

[swapmeet]

Lol... Well, I'm kinda ****ed since the lift is on. I guess I could find someone's stock measurements. Or is that what's in egb18t's thread. Standby!!!!

 

[having fun]

The way I'm reading your numbers, you are more than 3" in the front.

If I remember other threads, even with level, you will have a 2" difference front to rear height pattern if your using the wheel well for measurement.

The reason for no more than 3" in the front is, at full wheel drop while tires are turning, you will have a bind on the cv joint. They will break. A true test, jack it up like a full wheel drop and turn your tire.

Get a hold of Toytec and confirm.

 

[swapmeet]

Ok... So I don't know what it was stock, but...
From the center caps....

Pass Front: 23 3/8"
Driver Front 22 3/4" (???)
Pass Rear 23 7/8" (???)
Driver rear 22 1/4"

These numbers look jankey as hell to me... Or am I crazy?

 

[Mike07SE]

You're lift is fine. As long as the CV's aren't binding (free spin the wheels off the ground) you're OK. The Diff drop is worthless if you're not experiencing any of this. There's a reason why the more experienced guys say it.

 

[swapmeet]

The way I'm reading your numbers, you are more than 3" in the front.

A true test, jack it up like a full wheel drop and turn your tire.

Get a hold of Toytec and confirm.

Man I'm running around my car like a meth addict...

Ok so I just did the full droop test and the spin freely. Bueno? Or....

Thanks for the suggestion... If peeing on my CVs would tell me the answer, the urine would be flying.

 

[swapmeet]

Hmm... Ok, so maybe just even out the front (by dropping the high side) since they appear to be off by a good inch and call it good?

 

[having fun]

Man I'm running around my car like a meth addict...

Ok so I just did the full droop test and the spin freely. Bueno? Or....

Thanks for the suggestion... If peeing on my CVs would tell me the answer, the urine would be flying.

Hey DON'T PANIC MAN, as long as you had no binding with full drop your OK.

When I did my 3" lift, and tried to take the driver side lean out, I used spacers I put in the front and started to bind. Took them out and no more binding.

Most guys that break them have gone over the 3" mark.

 

[drewm]

I see misinformation in this thread.

First, height adjustment has nothing to do with the extended droop length which would bind the CV. Shock designers design in the maximum droop length with bumpstops internal to the shock. The only thing that will extend that maximum droop length are spacer lifts because the entire shock shifts downward.

I run 5" of lift on my front Radflos, and the only thing I can say is without an aftermarket upper control arm, you won't be able to run the stock alignment, you'll have to give up caster which will make your car twitchy and not center well on the freeway. From what I've gathered on this forum, you can only get about 2-3" of lift in the front before you can't align it to stock specs anymore without an aftermarket UCA.

A diff drop is never needed, there's not one thread on this forum where it improved things. I don't run one.

 

[swapmeet]

As a plot twist... I just went out with my trusty 4-way in hand to pull a front wheel and adjust the passenger side down so It sits at the same height.... Only to find that I appear to have lost my wheel lock key.


I. Am. A. Idiot.

There's a 10% chance I can find it. I think I left it on the last wheel that I torqued... So I might have come off during my maiden voyage around the block. I just walked the route with my LED shop light and didn't find it. I'll take a stab again tomorrow. Looks like I'll be paying to have them removed. Yay.