Need help! Taking out carpet and waterproofing

4runnertank

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I bedlined my little bed behind my seats on the 4runner a while back which helped a ton, but i want to get rid of the carpet at my floorbords where i drive and on the passenger side. I took off the carpet once to find that the foor was really jagged like the bed, and had that soundproofing foam stuff that was nearly molded to the floor. I was thinking of bedlining it but i figured the carpet helped hold the heat in and soundproof it to much to take it out. Anybody ever tried anything? Ideas? Pictures?
 
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That stuff that is molded is a pain to take out.. from front to back in my runner is Rhino Lined. It cost me about $575 and I even took everything out but the drivers seat. As for the heat its gonna get warm and it will also let a little more sound in. I will take some pics and post later today!
 
I have tossed around the idea of usiny a dynamat type sound deadening on my 4runner then getting it rhino lined on top of the matting. That should keep the road and engine noise down quite a bit and still look good.
 
That stuff that is molded is a pain to take out..

What did you use to take it out? Some of the guys on pirate were saying to use an air chisel and it makes it super easy to take out. Just hold the chisel at an extreme angle so you don't poke holes in the floor.
 
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Yep Harbor Freight was my friend that day... Air Chisel.. yes they are correct with the angle.. I wish I would have done the dynamat first.. if you do this I would suggest, in this order for the DIY'er.. Por15(best rust inhibitor), AL's liner thin coat, then sound barrier( dynament or what ever, make sure it sticks good when you spray liner over it you must remember if it comes off the floor board so will the liner.) then another good layer of AL's liner to cover the sound barrier.
 
some thing that i heatd is use dry ice! it may cost more than a harbor freight chisel but but it is safer than deforming the floor pan!

just make the dry ice in to small chuncks and lay the dry ice on the tar matt stuff an let the dry ice do the work for you!

i searched in the search box up top of the page for bedlineing the inside of my 4runner and their was a thread that someone posted a link to yota tec and showed a start to finish how to on a second gen! and that is how i know about using dry ice. with dry ice this person was pulling small dinner plate chuncks of that tar matt sound proofing stuff!

i am not saying that a chisel is a bad tool but i am saying a bag or 2 or 3 of dry ice will do way less damage to the truck! look it up.try diffrent forms of bedilning the inside of a 4runner on this site. this preson had loads and loads of pics. and it is a good starting point.
 
im getting ready to bedline my whole interior as well

the foam stuff comes up fine with a flat head screw driver. Thats what i used to get it all up
 
some thing that i heatd is use dry ice! it may cost more than a harbor freight chisel but but it is safer than deforming the floor pan!

just make the dry ice in to small chuncks and lay the dry ice on the tar matt stuff an let the dry ice do the work for you!

i searched in the search box up top of the page for bedlineing the inside of my 4runner and their was a thread that someone posted a link to yota tec and showed a start to finish how to on a second gen! and that is how i know about using dry ice. with dry ice this person was pulling small dinner plate chuncks of that tar matt sound proofing stuff!

i am not saying that a chisel is a bad tool but i am saying a bag or 2 or 3 of dry ice will do way less damage to the truck! look it up.try diffrent forms of bedilning the inside of a 4runner on this site. this preson had loads and loads of pics. and it is a good starting point.

Got a link for us lazy peeps?
 
are you guys talking about that stuff on the floor that is about 1/4" thick. In square slabs. It seems to be on there pretty good.

Why would you want to remove that before you paint or rhino, or cover with dynomat and or carpet? Do you see it causing a problem?

My next step is cleaning and painting the floor. All my carpet, rear trim, and seats are removed. But I wasn't planning on trying to peel off that stuff off the floor.

???
 
are you guys talking about that stuff on the floor that is about 1/4" thick. In square slabs. It seems to be on there pretty good.

Why would you want to remove that before you paint or rhino, or cover with dynomat and or carpet? Do you see it causing a problem?

My next step is cleaning and painting the floor. All my carpet, rear trim, and seats are removed. But I wasn't planning on trying to peel off that stuff off the floor.

???

well its not that you cant but
1.) it looks better!!!!!!!:thumb3:
2.)your bedliner can become week and split around the tar garbage and harbor water or baceria and then its no good as a water proofer! and you have to start from the beginning with bare metal in that area and take it out anyways

if you are just painting and are putting some type of carpet over it then paint away!

but the paint may crack around the edge!
 
I used spray on bed liner and did mine myself. My 4runner was a mess when I got it. Moldy carpets and rear seat. Now they are all gone!!
I left that matting on the floor and a year and a half later it is still perfectly fine. Spray at home bed liner requires prep work and the sanding is Critical to good adheasion!! If you don't sand the surface very well, the stuff WILL flake off, but I took the time and beer to do it right with green scrubby pads and I have had great success with it! I have a softopper that stays open in all seasons but winter, so it gets used and abused as much as possible.
Others may not advise using it, but for less than $100 total, I am very happy.
 

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Thanks for the input guys. I'll see what I wanna do soon. It really wasn't an immediate thing to do, but a good maintenance project.
 
I took note of the info in this thread and yesterday I started to remove the tar sound proofing material on the floor just to peak underneat in different sections.
I noticed that there was some rust. It wasn't major rust, most will brush off like dust. I continued to remove it. And found only one preforation the length and thinkness of a penny on the driver side.
Mine mostly came off very easy in large chunks. It was already britle. Maybe because it was already cold. I might give give the dry ice method a try on the rest. I'm also using a dry wall spatula with god success.
 

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