Need help with replacing front brakes/rotors/calipers

ddicosmo

ddicosmo

New member
I'm in need of some help with my first front brake job. The brakes are pulsating alot when coming to a stop (the harder I press, the more they pulsate). It is starting to worry me and my family as they don't seem very safe... In addition, when I went to the dealership for my state inspection a few months back, I was told that the passenger side front brake caliper was sticking. I've done several brake jobs in the past on other vehicles, but this is my first time on the 4Runner. Could you guys recommend what parts I should buy and where to buy them for my first brake job? I just want to make sure I go with good parts that bolt right up and don't have any issues. Also, I read on here that some people do the 5th gen upgrade when doing the front brakes. Is this worth it and should I consider it? I have the 17" wheels.

Info on truck: 2008 SR5 4x4 V6 engine, 17" wheels

Front Calipers:
Front Rotors:
Front Brakepads:

Also, while I'm in there, is there anything else that you would recommend replacing? (ie. brake lines with SS brake lines, etc.?)

One last thing. My 4Runner has 17" Toyota wheels on it. Was this an option on the SR5 (I bought the truck used..)? Based on my research, I thought the SR5 came with 16" wheels but mine are 17".

Greatly appreciate all the help. Thanks!

Dave.
 
Register to hide this ad
ddicosmo said:
I'm in need of some help with my first front brake job. The brakes are pulsating alot when coming to a stop (the harder I press, the more they pulsate). It is starting to worry me and my family as they don't seem very safe... In addition, when I went to the dealership for my state inspection a few months back, I was told that the passenger side front brake caliper was sticking. I've done several brake jobs in the past on other vehicles, but this is my first time on the 4Runner. Could you guys recommend what parts I should buy and where to buy them for my first brake job? I just want to make sure I go with good parts that bolt right up and don't have any issues. Also, I read on here that some people do the 5th gen upgrade when doing the front brakes. Is this worth it and should I consider it? I have the 17" wheels.

Info on truck: 2008 SR5 4x4 V6 engine, 17" wheels

Front Calipers:
Front Rotors:
Front Brakepads:

Also, while I'm in there, is there anything else that you would recommend replacing? (ie. brake lines with SS brake lines, etc.?)

One last thing. My 4Runner has 17" Toyota wheels on it. Was this an option on the SR5 (I bought the truck used..)? Based on my research, I thought the SR5 came with 16" wheels but mine are 17".

Greatly appreciate all the help. Thanks!

Dave.
Click to expand...

Rockauto is a great place to buy parts and very reasonable priced. When I did my break overhaul I went with Centric calipers, rotors, ceramic break pads, and stop tech SS brake lines. I also switched to DOT 4 syn fuid. Going with 5th gen brakes system is self preference but if you're doing overhaul then might as well do it. More surface area for heat dissipation. You can also just do a caliper rebuild kit and save some money. Just a thought.
 
If you're replacing the calipers upgrade to 5th gen calipers. They don't have the sticking/frozen issue and have increase stopping power. Look over the following thread, part numbers are also listed in there.

5th Gen Calipers
 
J053619 said:
If you're replacing the calipers upgrade to 5th gen calipers. They don't have the sticking/frozen issue and have increase stopping power. Look over the following thread, part numbers are also listed in there.

5th Gen Calipers
Click to expand...

Sorry, but this is bad advise. Fopr someone who is asking how to do a basic brake job (no offense intended) having them do a swap is out of the realm of reasonable. Besides you either have to cut, bend or replace sr5 brake sheilds to make this happen. I disagree with two of these methods and relpacement is expensive.

As for the OP. I just went through all of this on both of my trucks. HEre are my thoughts:

Buy duralast calipers from your local autozone. they have a three year warranty, Chances are, you will be changing your calipers on autozone's dime each year.

Rockauto has great prices, but if you are an amazon prime subscriber, parts are way easier to return.

You may not need rotors or even pads for that matter. Just get a caliper and see what that does. if it still shacks and the pads look bad, get new pads. if it still shakes, THEN get new rotors. I have a shake in my GX470 (same vehicle) and I was convinced it was a frozen caliper (nope). Then I was convinced it was bad rotors (wrong again). in the end, I needed new pads...


Edit: If the OP is up for it though, I am all for a 5th gen swap. I wish I would have done that. Also, yes the 17" is common on the sr5. I have a 2007 sr5 with 17" rims. As far as anything else to do while you are in there? No. I mean you could always check for wheel bearing issues or leaking CV axels. but those items are big enough to stand along on their own and would turn a fairly simple brake job into a front end rebuild odyssey.

EDit 2: FWIW I went with locally sourced parts from autozone. I go Duralst gold rotors and duralst max pads. I love both. and if I have an issue, there is no emailing, calling or shipping needed. FYI, the duralst gold rotors are really neat but holy hell will they smoke when you bed them in.

Edit 3: Be careful of your e-brake if you replace your rear rotors. that is not fun...
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for your replies so far. I have a couple of additional questions:

1. Someone mentioned a caliper rebuild kit. This sounds like an inexpensive alternative. Is this worth trying out first before going with replacing a whole caliper?

2. If I do decide to replace the whole caliper, is it recommended to replace both at the same time rather than just one? If the replacement caliper is not an exact Toyota OEM, then could this cause issues with the remaining good caliper or is this not even an issue?

3. Someone suggested to go with Autozone and replace on their dime. I would prefer to go with something that is going to last me at least another 5 years before having to do another brake job. Are the Centric calipers and parts the best ones out there or are there better quality parts? I would rather pay a bit more and buy stuff that will last as opposed to trying to save money and having to replace more often... Thanks again for all the responses.
 
You mention some uncertainty over the size of the wheels that your 4Runner came with.

Be sure that you get the right size rotors and calipers for your model.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/121822-rotor-size-question.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/66299-13wh-vs-13wg-calipers-question.html

What Is My Caliper Casting # On My Toyota

Your calipers should have the size (or code) stamped on them - 2003-2009 caliper cast numbers are 13WG or 13WH.

My trusted mechanic always recommends replacing calipers in pairs. When I got my new-to-me 2011 Limited, the selling dealership had only replaced the front right caliper to meet the safety inspection, and not the front left. When it goes to my shop next time, it will get a new front left caliper.

My mechanic used Perfect Stop brake parts when servicing my brakes.

http://www.perfectstop.com/index.html
 
Last edited:
Morphyne said:
Sorry, but this is bad advise. Fopr someone who is asking how to do a basic brake job (no offense intended) having them do a swap is out of the realm of reasonable. Besides you either have to cut, bend or replace sr5 brake sheilds to make this happen. I disagree with two of these methods and relpacement is expensive.

As for the OP. I just went through all of this on both of my trucks. HEre are my thoughts:

Buy duralast calipers from your local autozone. they have a three year warranty, Chances are, you will be changing your calipers on autozone's dime each year.

Rockauto has great prices, but if you are an amazon prime subscriber, parts are way easier to return.

You may not need rotors or even pads for that matter. Just get a caliper and see what that does. if it still shacks and the pads look bad, get new pads. if it still shakes, THEN get new rotors. I have a shake in my GX470 (same vehicle) and I was convinced it was a frozen caliper (nope). Then I was convinced it was bad rotors (wrong again). in the end, I needed new pads...


Edit: If the OP is up for it though, I am all for a 5th gen swap. I wish I would have done that. Also, yes the 17" is common on the sr5. I have a 2007 sr5 with 17" rims. As far as anything else to do while you are in there? No. I mean you could always check for wheel bearing issues or leaking CV axels. but those items are big enough to stand along on their own and would turn a fairly simple brake job into a front end rebuild odyssey.

EDit 2: FWIW I went with locally sourced parts from autozone. I go Duralst gold rotors and duralst max pads. I love both. and if I have an issue, there is no emailing, calling or shipping needed. FYI, the duralst gold rotors are really neat but holy hell will they smoke when you bed them in.

Edit 3: Be careful of your e-brake if you replace your rear rotors. that is not fun...
Click to expand...
Not to discoubt this great idea, I agree with [MENTION=76583]Morphyne[/MENTION]

Still need to install my brakes. I'm also a first timer and reviewed that same thread deciding I need something simple.

Bought StopTech Calipers. Still need to buy brake lines

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
[MENTION=77400]ddicosmo[/MENTION]
My 2008 4x4 sr5 v6 came with the "value package". This package includes 17" wheels with 265/65/r17 tires, leather steering wheel and shift knob, cruise control and audio controls, power moonroof, roof rack, cross bars and tonneau cover
 
I used this code and saved a good couple of bucks, maybe you can too

Advance Auto Parts - 30% off orders over $50 (online) + free store pickup
Use code "TRT30"

Maximum discount $50.


good luck
 
I only bought rear ones from them as I had already replaced the fronts.

Part No 19-B2726 and Part No 19-B2727 I have no complaints and the savings was nice!
 
If you didn't get all the parts already, I would also recommend getting a replacement hard line for each side. Being from the northeast, that line will be in there good due to rust. Channel locks was the only way to get mine out when I did it. Flare wrench just kept rounding the line off.
 
For a first timer, do we know if the StopTech Stainless Steel brake lines are a direct fit and won't give any fuss bending anything?

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
If I had to guess, I think that the rotors are probably shot as the shaking is really bad now. So just to save time, I'm was thinking of just buying a kit and replacing the calipers, rotors and pads in one shot. I could try and do just the pads and see what happens but I'm not sure if it's worth it or not. I found this kit up on Rockauto which seems to be decent. Does anyone have any experience with this kit?

More Information for POWER STOP KC13736

Its the powerstop Heavy Duty kit which includes the Calipers, Rotors and Pads for $373. I don't really need the Heavy Duty but their normal kit is out of stock..
 
toybox said:
How so? I'm on my second set of calipers, is it just oem calipers or are the aftermarket ones also changed to fix the problem?
Click to expand...

i think maybe that was a typo, and he meant 5th gen.

though, im not sure if that's true either. they are just newer. I expect to start seeing people have that same issue starting to pop up, as they get more miles/time on the calipers.


this is just my theory, I think its just lack of maintenance that is the issue. brake fluid is hygroscopic, that water eventually gets into the calipers, and settles there. causing a rust issue, which will lead to a seized piston. it seems the brakes are lasting longer, and therefore no reason to get into the system and move fluid around, or flush it out.
I don't really see this issue a lot on cars with single piston calipers, perhaps the smaller bore pistons having less surface area are more easily compromised by the water/rust?
 
Bossman said:
You mention some uncertainty over the size of the wheels that your 4Runner came with.

Be sure that you get the right size rotors and calipers for your model.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/121822-rotor-size-question.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/66299-13wh-vs-13wg-calipers-question.html

What Is My Caliper Casting # On My Toyota

Your calipers should have the size (or code) stamped on them - 2003-2009 caliper cast numbers are 13WG or 13WH.

My trusted mechanic always recommends replacing calipers in pairs. When I got my new-to-me 2011 Limited, the selling dealership had only replaced the front right caliper to meet the safety inspection, and not the front left. When it goes to my shop next time, it will get a new front left caliper.

My mechanic used Perfect Stop brake parts when servicing my brakes.

Perfect Stop by Wagner
Click to expand...

I'm looking at my calipers to determine if I have 319mm or 338mm. I only see a 13 cast on the driver side and a 12 on the passenger side.
... Should I be able to see the 13wh/wg through the slots in the wheel? Do I need to rmove the rim? Or am I looking in the wrong place??

Also, if replacing all of my rotors, is there any reason not to go with this kit?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FL72GO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thanks!!
 
dannyg said:
I'm looking at my calipers to determine if I have 319mm or 338mm. I only see a 13 cast on the driver side and a 12 on the passenger side.
... Should I be able to see the 13wh/wg through the slots in the wheel? Do I need to rmove the rim? Or am I looking in the wrong place??

Also, if replacing all of my rotors, is there any reason not to go with this kit?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FL72GO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

IMHO the best way to know for sure which size rotors you have is to measure them, 319mm is just under 12 5/8", 338mm is just over 13 5/16" and as such you don't even need to get an exact measuremment, if the rotors are over 13" they are the 338mm, under 13" they are the 319mm.

"13WH- 13.3"/338mm rotor diameter
13WL- 12.6"/319mm rotor diameter
13WG- 12.6"/319mm rotor diameter"
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 847 (members: 2, guests: 845)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top