need help) won't return to cetner/ squeaking noise

dominopizza

New member
Hello guys I need some help here.

I've already read the forum about the car not returning to center.

to make it short, here's parts that i've replaced this year.

front struts, inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, front rotors and brake pads and rear shocks.

after all these replacements, I didn't hear any squeaking noise but front struts are not OEM so it raised the front of the vehicle about 1~2 inches. (rear shocks are same height as the OEM). but recently i've changed my tires and I start to hear creaking noise from the front and my dad just came over and drove the car and told me car won't return to center.

idk, if it's MR.tire guys mess up my car or i just need to get an alignment or something else is failing. any suggestions?
 
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Step 1 is getting an alignment. Anytime you mess with suspension you should get one. I also did a mild lift, less than 2" and I could visually see my tire/road contact had changed. Of course my 2 inch wasn't "lift" because my old suspension was already saggy.
 
I supposed to get new sway bars soon this week. So, after I replace them and get my vehicle aligned, I'll post an update. thanks
 
Did alignment today but still, handle won't return to center.

any suggestions? i'm really hoping it's not the rack... that's gonna be a pain in the butt.
 
Did alignment today but still, handle won't return to center.

any suggestions? i'm really hoping it's not the rack... that's gonna be a pain in the butt.

What kind of ball joints did you use? So the alignment place couldn't provide any advice either cause I would assume they had to road test it after the alignment?
 
Did alignment today but still, handle won't return to center.

any suggestions? i'm really hoping it's not the rack... that's gonna be a pain in the butt.

When you say it won't return to center, do you mean the steering wheel won't return to center? If so, you need to loosen the steering rack guide, it's too tight. Keep loosening it until it does. If it vibrates, it's too loose and tighten. Takes a few tries to get it right.
 
idk Mr.tire test drove my car. but i told them handle won't come to center and that's the reason why i'm getting an alignment. and i told them that almost every part of front suspension has been replaced. they had no clue. and ball joint i used was Beck/Arnley Ball Joint Front Upper.
 
don't Mr.tire tech has to loosen that up to do the alignment the first time? and isn't that going to mess up the alignment job that did?

lastly, where is that located? i looked it up on here :
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/70884-how-replace-steering-rack-guide-pictures.html

i just have to loosen up that nut?

Yeah, if it's the old style you need to loosen the nut a little then tighten the ring nut down to hold it in place. If it's the new style you will need to get creative since it's a recessed hex bolt. That will loosen the guide's pressure on the steering column, allowing it to return to center once you let go of the steering wheel in a turn.

Often what happens is there's some steering wobble and some rookie mechanic or DIY tightens the heck out of it and "eliminates" the shaking. I'm pretty sure that's what killed my steering rack.
 
Yeah, if it's the old style you need to loosen the nut a little then tighten the ring nut down to hold it in place. If it's the new style you will need to get creative since it's a recessed hex bolt. That will loosen the guide's pressure on the steering column, allowing it to return to center once you let go of the steering wheel in a turn.

I agree that it could be the rack guide nut is to tight. I wouldn't loosen it though till I was sure it wasn't in either the upper or lower ball joints.

IMO, the first step should be to disconnect the outer tie rod end from the lower ball joint on both side. Jack the car up and turn the wheel side to side. If it binds at all the problem is much bigger then a rack guide nut. If it doesn't bind then you can move on to the guide nut or rack.
 
on top, i wrote down everything i've replaced. yes, ball joints have been replaced last year.

I will try to do the rack guide tomorrow. if not, i guess it's time to buy some new rack.

-_- that's gonna take my weekend away.
 
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It's Mr.tire they do pretty good job i guess. i got the print out but it only show you the numbers for alingments from before and after. so not much info.
 
on top, i wrote down everything i've replaced. yes, ball joints have been replaced last year..

It doesn't matter when the ball joints where replaced. If the bind is in the ball joints the only way to tell is to do what I said upthread. It will take less then an hour and you eliminate it as a possibility instead of guessing there OK because they are only a year old. You car, your call. I'm just telling you how to troubleshoot it properly.
 
on top, i wrote down everything i've replaced. yes, ball joints have been replaced last year.

I will try to do the rack guide tomorrow. if not, i guess it's time to buy some new rack.

-_- that's gonna take my weekend away.

I asked before and got no response, what kind of ball joints did you use? If not OEM, those may be your problem.

Things that will cause your steering to not return to center.
1. OTREs
2. ITREs
3. LBJs
4. UBJs
5. Small caster angle
6. Binding rack and pinion

I can't think of anything else that would cause your problem unless your PS pump is failing but I would think that would be obvious.

Did you replace the parts you replaced in response to the steering issue?
 
wow nobody has ball joint puller so i ordered online. and nobody has 5/8 hex key either ...... i guess i have to wait until the parts come. ALso, I should've mentioned this at first but, i hear very loud creaking noise when i turn my wheel from bottom of the gas pedal. (it makes the noise somethimes and sometimes it doesn't. it didn't make the nosie for good 3 days or so, that's why i forgot to include it).

i'm pretty sure thats something to do with it but i need 2nd person to confirm where the noise exactly coming from.
 
definately not oem ball joints. I bought it from ebay 'prime choice' company. i guess i have to wait for tools to come.... my local stores really sucks.
 
I agree that it could be the rack guide nut is to tight. I wouldn't loosen it though till I was sure it wasn't in either the upper or lower ball joints.

IMO, the first step should be to disconnect the outer tie rod end from the lower ball joint on both side. Jack the car up and turn the wheel side to side. If it binds at all the problem is much bigger then a rack guide nut. If it doesn't bind then you can move on to the guide nut or rack.

Oh gosh, if it is the lower ball joints that's a disaster waiting to happen.

If you hear creaking when you turn, that's definitely NOT the rack guide, it does not creak since it's greased and/or coated with a non-stick surface. One of your ball joints is binding up real bad.
 

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