Need opinion and input.

[robaroni]

The tacoma trd complete front should yield 1.5" up in the front. Im thinking that plus a 3/4" spacer getting 2.5+/- total lift up front.

Using a 5100 or 4600 in the rear, what easily obtainable coil spring will give 1-2" of rise over the stock spring and comfortable rate?

I think this set up would solve my problem and get me a nice and level ride.

PS- the reason I am leaning towards the trd stock front is because I can get both completely assembled for a 100 dollar bill, ready to install. Reviews are good on the ride and handling and its a cheap way for me to do it. They are the 5100 (non-adjust) factory set up with 6kmilea before taken off.

Sweet! Make sure you post some pictures when your done!

 

[AARONR]

Cheapest, easiest would be 2.5" leveling spacer up front. Matches rear height. Good to go. Unless you want to replace all 4x shocks, don't mess with the XREAS.

 

[03limited2WD]

The tacoma trd complete front should yield 1.5" up in the front. Im thinking that plus a 3/4" spacer getting 2.5+/- total lift up front.

Using a 5100 or 4600 in the rear, what easily obtainable coil spring will give 1-2" of rise over the stock spring and comfortable rate?

I think this set up would solve my problem and get me a nice and level ride.

PS- the reason I am leaning towards the trd stock front is because I can get both completely assembled for a 100 dollar bill, ready to install. Reviews are good on the ride and handling and its a cheap way for me to do it. They are the 5100 (non-adjust) factory set up with 6kmilea before taken off.

Sounds like you have a good plan. I went with 5100s on each corner. Fronts at 2.5 rears with daystar 1.5 spacer on stock springs. Love it. The ride is firmer, which is what I was looking for.

I had to take it to a shop, since the old shock mounting bolts were shearing off. The only complication I didn't foresee was with the lift, my jack stands are now too short and I had to get a new hydraulic jack. The old jack won't lift the frame high enough.

 

[dchild]

The only complication I didn't foresee was with the lift, my jack stands are now too short

Somewhat OT, but I had this problem and in case the OP encounters it I wanted to share my $10 fix:

 

[anotherrunner83]

I put the daystar leveling kit and spidertraxx wheel spacers on my 08 V8 Limited at 30,000 miles. 135,000 later, my xreas is still good and the truck is still level with a great stance. You will read all kinds of differences about how long xreas lasts, but for the $40 for the leveling kit and if you can do it yourself, you can't really beat the daystar.

 

[ben550]

Somewhat OT, but I had this problem and in case the OP encounters it I wanted to share my $10 fix:

Ive got to make some of those. I am uncomfortable raising a 3 ton jack stand to its highest setting... not very safe.

 

[Veritas]

I will try my post here rather than make a new thread...

I have factory suspension and the daystar 2.5/1.5 spacers and love the way it looks but at 110,000 miles need a shock/strut replacement, so I just purchased Bilstein 5100's adj front and 5100's for the rear.

Should I be replacing the springs/coilovers? Are they Good up to 200k miles? My options with the bils 5100 installed:

1. Keep Factory coils and springs and keep the Daystar 1.5 in the rear, Sell front spacers

2. Buy Moog/toytec/OME/etc springs for front and/or rear and then do what to maintain rear ride height?

3. Buy FJ springs for front and/or rear and then lose the daystar kit altogether or would I need other spacers?

I am heavily leaning towards option 1, primarily based on cost and lack of knowledge for what I would do with the moog or FJ springs to maintain my current ride height. Any help/advice would be very appreciated.

 

[03limited2WD]

I went with option 1, as i stated earlier,, and it really worked out well for me. I say sell those front spacers since the 5100s achieve the same lift without so much suspension geometry alteration. (at least that is what the Bilstein website claims)
Stock springs at 135k were fine. no creaks, cracks or binding.
I replaced the front shock seats/bushings (KYB SM5640)
swaybar bushings (Energy Suspension 85136R & Energy Suspension 8.5135R)
front bils 5100s at 2.5
rear daystar 1.5 spacer
1.25 billet wheel adapters (have yet to install, need to find time for this and an oil change this weekend)

upsized tires to 265/70/17 (the tire size decal inside drivers side door states that the stock size is actually 265/70/17 even though the truck had 265/65/17 from Japan) a slight decrease in off-the-line speed, but when revs reach 2000 acceleration is awesome.

and I added a chrome "V6" emblem (from ebay) in the same approximate grille location as the V8 emblems are located on stock V8s, (just to be a socially deviant prick,,, I love my timing chain)

wheel travel on the rear with stock sway bar links is a little tight at full flex, but I dont wheel offroad much anyway.

You will not regret option 1. (probably)
watch out for the diassembly though. I had wicked bad seized nuts on the old shocks, to the point that i sheared off the top threads.

I will try my post here rather than make a new thread...

I have factory suspension and the daystar 2.5/1.5 spacers and love the way it looks but at 110,000 miles need a shock/strut replacement, so I just purchased Bilstein 5100's adj front and 5100's for the rear.

Should I be replacing the springs/coilovers? Are they Good up to 200k miles? My options with the bils 5100 installed:

1. Keep Factory coils and springs and keep the Daystar 1.5 in the rear, Sell front spacers

2. Buy Moog/toytec/OME/etc springs for front and/or rear and then do what to maintain rear ride height?

3. Buy FJ springs for front and/or rear and then lose the daystar kit altogether or would I need other spacers?

I am heavily leaning towards option 1, primarily based on cost and lack of knowledge for what I would do with the moog or FJ springs to maintain my current ride height. Any help/advice would be very appreciated.

 

[Veritas]

I went with option 1, as i stated earlier,, and it really worked out well for me. I say sell those front spacers since the 5100s achieve the same lift without so much suspension geometry alteration. (at least that is what the Bilstein website claims)
Stock springs at 135k were fine. no creaks, cracks or binding.
I replaced the front shock seats/bushings (KYB SM5640)
swaybar bushings (Energy Suspension 85136R & Energy Suspension 8.5135R)
front bils 5100s at 2.5
rear daystar 1.5 spacer
1.25 billet wheel adapters (have yet to install, need to find time for this and an oil change this weekend)

upsized tires to 265/70/17 (the tire size decal inside drivers side door states that the stock size is actually 265/70/17 even though the truck had 265/65/17 from Japan) a slight decrease in off-the-line speed, but when revs reach 2000 acceleration is awesome.

and I added a chrome "V6" emblem (from ebay) in the same approximate grille location as the V8 emblems are located on stock V8s, (just to be a socially deviant prick,,, I love my timing chain)

wheel travel on the rear with stock sway bar links is a little tight at full flex, but I dont wheel offroad much anyway.

You will not regret option 1. (probably)
watch out for the diassembly though. I had wicked bad seized nuts on the old shocks, to the point that i sheared off the top threads.

Thanks for the info, I actually did the full upgrade yesterday afternoon with option #1, it took me about 6hrs to do the full job, but so far I am very happy with the results. The back is currently sitting about 1" higher than the fronts which kind of surprised me I thought it would be more level, it is still very level and has just a slight rake.

I could not get the rear shocks off, I tried WD40 and everything else I could think of, so I just decided to cut the rear shocks off. I used a sawzall to cut the nuts off, that was so much easier. I have 265/65/17 custom wheels, the 265/70/17's rubbed too much on the body since my wheels have an offset that made them stick out. I will have to post a picture later today!