Need Quick Help!!! installing ome lift and hit a snag

[bishop4r]

Like the title says, Im trying to install the OME lift on my 2010 trail with kdss. Im looking at sled offloads directions and the ones by eddiebx/sp8ball. Heres my problem...
Slees directions say to take to pop out the ball joint on the steering rack end and I'm having a hell of a time with it without a removal tool. The other directions make no mention of removing the ball joint, only removing the stabilizer link from the steering knuckle. (step 8). This part is nowhere to be found on my trail :no idea:

So do I have to pop out the ball joint???? If so, I'm going to have to wait till the wife gets home and take a trip to auto zone

Any help is greatly appreciated...i'll post pics in a sec

 

[bishop4r]

Ball joint on steering end

 

[bishop4r]

Where stabilizer from sp8balls directions would have been. Nothing on mine

 

[Jesse1983]

You're just installing new shocks/coils right? Have you tried just getting the old one out and shoving your new one in there? Without removing whatever ball joint they are talking about? You should be fine.

 

[Jesse1983]

it's been like 4 years since I installed mine, but I know all I did was remove the UCA (because I was replacing them too) and the shock/coil. I did not disconnect the sway bar or anything else. Had a buddy press down on the LCA and then I knocked that lower end in. Here is a pic right after I got the coil in. It doesn't really help but it definitely reminds me that I didnt disconnect anything else.

 

[Jeremy556]

Looks like you have killed your tie rod end boot, so you'll want to replace that now, since you'll be needing an alignment anyway.

You should soak that bolt down with penetrating oil and use one of these to free the tie rod end:

You don't have a sway bar connected to the spindle because you have KDSS and it is connected to the front of the lower control arm. When you go to re-attach the KDSS sway bar, do it with all 4 tires on the ground, connect the passenger side first, and have some pin punches, pry bars, and a jack handy to line up the bolts.

 

[mace.]

it's been like 4 years since I installed mine, but I know all I did was remove the UCA (because I was replacing them too) and the shock/coil. I did not disconnect the sway bar or anything else. Had a buddy press down on the LCA and then I knocked that lower end in. Here is a pic right after I got the coil in. It doesn't really help but it definitely reminds me that I didnt disconnect anything else.

I did it this way also. If you need to disconnect the upper ball joint, loosen up the nut without taking it all the way off and hit it from the side and it'll come loose.

 

[bishop4r]

Looks like you have killed your tie rod end boot, so you'll want to replace that now, since you'll be needing an alignment anyway.

You should soak that bolt down with penetrating oil and use one of these to free the tie rod end:

You don't have a sway bar connected to the spindle because you have KDSS and it is connected to the front of the lower control arm. When you go to re-attach the KDSS sway bar, do it with all 4 tires on the ground, connect the passenger side first, and have some pin punches, pry bars, and a jack handy to line up the bolts.

How do I know the boot is killed? All I did so far was touch it with my finger to see how much of a gap I had. Can the boot be purchased separately?

 

[Jono.ful]

You let the goo out, you'll need a new outer tie rod end, they're cheap, don't sweat it. I just back the nut off to the end of the tie rod bolt and smack it with a hammer,shoyld come apart.

 

[bishop4r]

You let the goo out, you'll need a new outer tie rod end, they're cheap, don't sweat it. I just back the nut off to the end of the tie rod bolt and smack it with a hammer,shoyld come apart.

damn.
i tried the hammer thing and that didn't work either. Looks like I'm headed to auto zone to get tie rod end

 

[bishop4r]

Do I have to get the tie rod end directly from toyota? Looks like nothing at auto zone

 

[Jeremy556]

Do I have to get the tie rod end directly from toyota? Looks like nothing at auto zone

If you want it to last, it is best to get from Toyota. MSRP is about $55, IIRC.

Any auto parts store will have outer tie rod ends that will work. Get it aligned right away, as your toe will be off and you'll ruin your tire pretty quickly.

Spray it down with some oil before you go. Even with the pitman arm puller, it can take a lot of force to separate. Make sure you are able to loosen the 22mm lock nut before you go shopping. You may need a crow's foot like this and a loooong breaker to get it free.

 

[hamburglar210]

If you want it to last, it is best to get from Toyota. MSRP is about $55, IIRC.

Any auto parts store will have outer tie rod ends that will work. Get it aligned right away, as your toe will be off and you'll ruin your tire pretty quickly.

Spray it down with some oil before you go. Even with the pitman arm puller, it can take a lot of force to separate. Make sure you are able to loosen the 22mm lock nut before you go shopping. You may need a crow's foot like this and a loooong breaker to get it free.

So when I do this later in 2015 you want to help? I'll provide the beer and if you mountain bike, I've been looking for an excuse to hit Fruita

 

[Jono.ful]

If you find the hammer doesn't work, grab each side of the rotor and try to pivot it back and forth, until the tie rod bolt is as close to vertical as you can get it. Then give it a smack with the hammer.
Provided the replacement rod end is the same length, your alignment will be fine. Crack off the keeper nut just a half turn then take the old rod end off. thread the new rod end the same number of turns, then tighten the keeper nut.
I've been using napa tie rod ends for 8 months or so now, still tight like a tiger.

 

[chmura]

Get your biggest hammer out and hit the steering knuckle portion (not the screw but where the tie rod bolt goes through). I only use a hammer and works every time. No need for a special tool

 

[bishop4r]

Thanks for all the help guys! I was able to get the tie rod end separated with a pickle fork and the rest of the install went fairly quickly once a couple extra sets of hands showed up. I was even able to install my bud built bump out sliders before the beers ran out:reckon: Here is a teaser pic until I tomorrow morning. Only thing left to do is zero point calibration and alignment. Thanks again!

 

[bishop4r]

Here's a pick I took today after I did the zero points cal and took it for a test drive. so far no wierd clunks or rattles, which is always a plus