Need some brake help

[Chandlerdoom]

Alright so after a painful weekend of changing the brakes, not exactly how I wanted it to go but shit happens. So I bled the brakes with a helper, still had a soft pedal. Bled again with no luck, finally tonight I tried once more and did the furthest away to closest with the tube in a bottle method. Still no luck

So I feel that I bled the lines correctly, all new fluid came out. Ive did it with the car off, and key in the on position.

Background- the pedal feel was the same as before I started, I assumed shitty brakes (as they were) and possible that the lines haven't been bled in a while. No signs of leaks anywhere, rear cylinders look good.

Its safe to assume to move onto the master cylinder correct? How do I test it to see if its bad? Or is their something else I should look at to see why my pedal is so soft. To get a good pedal feel I have to pump it first

 

[UTEP]

Hmmm I'm having same issue. I did not have the key on. Is that because of ABS?

Thanks

 

[Nelsonmd]

Before you mess with the MC, make sure that the rear drums are properly adjusted. If they aren't, then you will lose alot of your stroke on closing the gap between the shoes and drums. The rears should auto adjust, but once they are a bit dirty, they typically don't auto adjust anymore.

 

[UTEP]

I'm starting to read some disturbing things re: ABS systems and having to have dealer bleed the brakes with some contraption….

This is my first ABS vehicle…any truth to this or trick to bleed the brakes?

I flushed my system but never ran dry or had any leaks. I just replaced sticking rear wheel cylinders so no air should be anywhere else.

Hope we can nail this one…

Utep

 

[nevada]

Alright so after a painful weekend of changing the brakes, not exactly how I wanted it to go but shit happens. So I bled the brakes with a helper, still had a soft pedal. Bled again with no luck, finally tonight I tried once more and did the furthest away to closest with the tube in a bottle method. Still no luck

So I feel that I bled the lines correctly, all new fluid came out. Ive did it with the car off, and key in the on position.

Background- the pedal feel was the same as before I started, I assumed shitty brakes (as they were) and possible that the lines haven't been bled in a while. No signs of leaks anywhere, rear cylinders look good.

Its safe to assume to move onto the master cylinder correct? How do I test it to see if its bad? Or is their something else I should look at to see why my pedal is so soft. To get a good pedal feel I have to pump it first

the rear brakes aren't adjusted properly.

Before you mess with the MC, make sure that the rear drums are properly adjusted. If they aren't, then you will lose alot of your stroke on closing the gap between the shoes and drums. The rears should auto adjust, but once they are a bit dirty, they typically don't auto adjust anymore.

yup. this.

 

[nevada]

I'm starting to read some disturbing things re: ABS systems and having to have dealer bleed the brakes with some contraption….

This is my first ABS vehicle…any truth to this or trick to bleed the brakes?

I flushed my system but never ran dry or had any leaks. I just replaced sticking rear wheel cylinders so no air should be anywhere else.

Hope we can nail this one…

Utep

don't quote me on this, but I think that's only if you get air into the MC/abs unit. assuming the reservoir always stays full, there should be no issue.

 

[Mauzer]

Bleed it with the car turned on, always works for me

 

[Chandlerdoom]

the rear brakes aren't adjusted properly.


yup. this.

I will double check, but last night when I originally planned on replacing the rear brakes I found that all the parts are newish, shoes looked like the wear even. The gap was minimal. But I will double check, how many clicks should I rotate back after the drum won't fit back on?

Should I bleed it with the car on? Even tho I am not getting any bubbles or air gaps when I bleed the lines

 

[nevada]

I will double check, but last night when I originally planned on replacing the rear brakes I found that all the parts are newish, shoes looked like the wear even. The gap was minimal. But I will double check, how many clicks should I rotate back after the drum won't fit back on?

Should I bleed it with the car on? Even tho I am not getting any bubbles or air gaps when I bleed the lines

leave the drum on, put the tire on too.

adjust it from the inside, until there is a slight bit of drag. that's the best way.


if you don't have the means to do it that way, adjust it up until you can JUST slide the drum back on, and so there is a slight bit of resistance when you turn it.

then go pump the brakes a couple times(this will center the shoes), then check it again. readjust as needed.


oh, as far as bleeding, we always do it with the engine off. but, that's not your problem, you don't have air in the system. it would never pump up good with air.
air will give a spongy pedal, adjustment will be a low or long travel pedal.