Need some help. LED headlight wiring issue

[muliefever]

Hey everyone, I ordered some LED headlights and adapter plugs to install on my 1990 4runner. For some reason I am only able to get the low beams to activate. No high beams. I would imagine there is a low beam, high beam and ground. But, I am learning that isn't the case. Any help?

Yes I will solder in when done!

 

[Bad_Vision]

Looks like you may have the wrong bulb set up is that an H4 conversion lens?
Some of the old Chevys had the same size ball but it was only a low beam if you didn't order the h4 one you probably got a low beam only.

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[muliefever]

This is a sealed beam LED. With an H4 plug in the rear. Been doing a ton of research and I guess the factory wiring has a positive, low beam and high beam. When you switch from low to high beam, the ground switches automatically between the two. Very screwed up system. I guess I will have to go and get some relays and make it work.

 

[Bumbo]

Do you have a digital multimeter?

Can you check the output from the vehical?

Also be sure to check the headlight itself... you can power the headlight with a separate source, like directly from a 12v battery.

Let me know what doesn't check out.

I also recommending you crimp vs solder, but do whatever you feel more comfortable with.

 

[muliefever]

I do have a multimeter. Storming bad today so I am not working on it. I have been doing a ton of research about this. There is no easy way to wire them. Uhg

 

[nicnmike]

LED are directional. If the ground is common, and the positive is either from the low or high, it should work. Is that the problem you're having?

I do have a multimeter. Storming bad today so I am not working on it. I have been doing a ton of research about this. There is no easy way to wire them. Uhg

 

[Bumbo]

I was trying to get him to verify using the DMM:

1. You are getting 12v output at the factory vehical wiring.

2. Use the DMM to identify polarity ( + and - )

3. Use DMM to identify which what what... low beam circuit, high beam circuit.

If all the vehical wiring is checking out... then move to the headlight.

4. Check using a separate source or wiring that the headlight itself is working. Be sure to make note of what [MENTION=92083]nicnmike[/MENTION] said, LEDs and or LED drivers circuits are directional.

These things should be pretty simple, you might be missing something obvious, or you might be working with some faulty still.

 

[muliefever]

Still having horrible weather so I am not working on this. I talked to a local Toyota expert today and he told me what he did to make it work. Essentially, you have to add a 5 pin relay. The factory wiring as it sits will NOT work with these types of lights. He is going to help me out this weekend. I will do a write up when we do it for others to follow.

 

[Bumbo]

Sounds like the factory wiring can't handle the amperage draw of your new headlight...

If that is the case, then a 5 pin relay, like a Bosch relay, is probably the right move.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Bad_Vision]

Sounds like the factory wiring can't handle the amperage draw of your new headlight...

If that is the case, then a 5 pin relay, like a Bosch relay, is probably the right move.

Let us know how it goes.

Even with that many LED lights they still won't draw as much as a holagen light. So amps is not the problem.

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[Bumbo]

Even with that many LED lights they still won't draw as much as a holagen light. So amps is not the problem.

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That's what I was thinking as well... so if its not a current issues why even fuss with a relay?

Again, none of this stuff is difficult to measure and test.

Unfortunately its raining over there or the OP is lying about weather and hanging out at the free sample cart at a cheese shop. :lmao:

 

[muliefever]

Ha ha. It's freezing cold and snowing. There is some good literature on the wiring issue regarding changing the headlights on 4crawler. It's really not a power issue from what I can tell. It's a weird system. I will keep you guys in the loop. Thanks for your willingness to help

 

[Bad_Vision]

No problem, any wiring should be fused no matter what. Its cheap and saves you money if anything goes wrong.
I have seen a simple aftermarket horn take out a entire ECM and start the fuse block on fire.
It was wired properly and when the owners kid was playing with it honking it repeatedly it over heated a wire and exposed the copper that sparked on the strut tower and welded it to it. Needless to say then all the amps when directly to the fuse block main and because the main wasn't fused to that horn the hole thing just overheated and lit on fire.
Always fuse anything electrical.

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[muliefever]

Oh for sure!! I was just "testing" lol. I will do the write up this weekend