Need some serious mechanical advice please!

Gilbert C

New member
*hope I'm posting this in the right place, if not please advise*

I am not a mechanic but I’m handy as hell and very mechanically inclined. I’ve done all my own work on my truck and any other car I’ve ever had.
Ok, so about 4 days ago or so I changed out the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, and timing belt tensioner in my 93 4runner. I had noticed a leak that got progressively worse from the water pump and every site I’ve seen basically says that if your going to replace the water pump, you might as well replace the timing belt as well since your gonna be right there. I had never done a timing belt and I was a bit worried, but it seemed to go off without a hitch. No leaks, new belt went right on and everything went right on, aligned and everything. I WANT TO STRESS THAT I WASN’T HAVING ANY OTHER PROBLEMS WITH MY TRUCK, it ran fine and all was well before I did the work. After me and my son in law put it all back together, (without any issues), we started her up. It sputtered for just a second or 2 then started like a champ. I let it idle for about 10 minutes or so just to check for leaks or anything which we saw none. Revved it up a bit to see if any issues were there and we found none. As nervous as I was messing with the timing belt, I have to say that I was kinda proud that we did it with no issues.
THEN…I decide to take it around the block a few times to check her out. We got out of the drive way and it seemed “ok”. I got to where another road was 45mph and started on my way. I noticed that it had very little power. It was sorta struggling to reach even 30mph. when it finally did get to 30, it wouldn’t go any faster and the gas pedal was at the floor. It wasn’t revving high or anything it was just “trying” to get any faster. I swing around the corner and start my way back home and since there was the slightest of a slope on that road back it reached 45mph. I decided to hit that road once more to see if there was a difference and at struggled again this time to about 20-25mph. from here I just went back home.
As soon as I pulled in to the drive way, I could hear a hissing sound. As I popped the hood, I noticed that the vacuum hoses and stuff by the firewall, which most were also just replaced about a week ago, were hissing. It was dark and I may have been wrong, but I’m pretty sure it was in that area. Anyway, my son in law quickly pointed out that the exhaust manifold was super bright red and lit up the engine! I didn’t know what the hell was wrong and it kinda freaked me out a bit.
I followed the hissing a bit and realized it was coming from the inside of my truck. I opened the door and steaming hot water was slowly filling up the driver side floorboard. It wasn’t on the passenger side at all, just the driver side. I couldn’t see exactly where it was coming in from but it was somewhere up and to the right a bit from where the gas pedal sits.
Reading other sites that google brought up and finding threads that were similar to my issues in different cars, I read a few things. #1The timing may be off. #2 could be a bad heater coil. #3 the exhaust could be clogged. The list kinda goes on and on. How could any of this happen when it wasn’t happening before and the work was done simple and clean?
I just want someone to tell me what it could be and how to FIX it! Money is definitely an issue right now and I am doing the work myself. My wife is ready to give up on my 4runner and wants me to sell it, which I don’t want to do…but again, im not a mechanic and if its just too much to fix and I cant do the work myself, I may be forced to do so. ANY HELP WOULD BE SERIOUSLY APPRECIATED! HEEEEEEELP!!!!
:crybaby:
 
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*hope I'm posting this in the right place, if not please advise*

I am not a mechanic but I’m handy as hell and very mechanically inclined. I’ve done all my own work on my truck and any other car I’ve ever had.
Ok, so about 4 days ago or so I changed out the water pump, thermostat, timing belt, and timing belt tensioner in my 93 4runner. I had noticed a leak that got progressively worse from the water pump and every site I’ve seen basically says that if your going to replace the water pump, you might as well replace the timing belt as well since your gonna be right there. I had never done a timing belt and I was a bit worried, but it seemed to go off without a hitch. No leaks, new belt went right on and everything went right on, aligned and everything. I WANT TO STRESS THAT I WASN’T HAVING ANY OTHER PROBLEMS WITH MY TRUCK, it ran fine and all was well before I did the work. After me and my son in law put it all back together, (without any issues), we started her up. It sputtered for just a second or 2 then started like a champ. I let it idle for about 10 minutes or so just to check for leaks or anything which we saw none. Revved it up a bit to see if any issues were there and we found none. As nervous as I was messing with the timing belt, I have to say that I was kinda proud that we did it with no issues.
THEN…I decide to take it around the block a few times to check her out. We got out of the drive way and it seemed “ok”. I got to where another road was 45mph and started on my way. I noticed that it had very little power. It was sorta struggling to reach even 30mph. when it finally did get to 30, it wouldn’t go any faster and the gas pedal was at the floor. It wasn’t revving high or anything it was just “trying” to get any faster. I swing around the corner and start my way back home and since there was the slightest of a slope on that road back it reached 45mph. I decided to hit that road once more to see if there was a difference and at struggled again this time to about 20-25mph. from here I just went back home.
As soon as I pulled in to the drive way, I could hear a hissing sound. As I popped the hood, I noticed that the vacuum hoses and stuff by the firewall, which most were also just replaced about a week ago, were hissing. It was dark and I may have been wrong, but I’m pretty sure it was in that area. Anyway, my son in law quickly pointed out that the exhaust manifold was super bright red and lit up the engine! I didn’t know what the hell was wrong and it kinda freaked me out a bit.
I followed the hissing a bit and realized it was coming from the inside of my truck. I opened the door and steaming hot water was slowly filling up the driver side floorboard. It wasn’t on the passenger side at all, just the driver side. I couldn’t see exactly where it was coming in from but it was somewhere up and to the right a bit from where the gas pedal sits.
Reading other sites that google brought up and finding threads that were similar to my issues in different cars, I read a few things. #1The timing may be off. #2 could be a bad heater coil. #3 the exhaust could be clogged. The list kinda goes on and on. How could any of this happen when it wasn’t happening before and the work was done simple and clean?
I just want someone to tell me what it could be and how to FIX it! Money is definitely an issue right now and I am doing the work myself. My wife is ready to give up on my 4runner and wants me to sell it, which I don’t want to do…but again, im not a mechanic and if its just too much to fix and I cant do the work myself, I may be forced to do so. ANY HELP WOULD BE SERIOUSLY APPRECIATED! HEEEEEEELP!!!!
:crybaby:

My first though would be check to see if the timing is off. As far as the water goes that soiunds like the heater core. Was the heater working fine before? Maybe if it was partially clogged then when you did the water pump it blew out maybe? You can pull the heater hoses from the firewall and loop them together som the coolant doesnt go through the heater core that you you can see if that is you problem by taking it out of the way basically. Hope it helps
 
Yeah, the heater and everything worked fine before. I had no issues whatsoever. I friend of mine also said that the heater core might have went out.but it worked great before. I'm gonna have to take all his apart and check out the timing again, but im pretty sure that its still good as well. Ugh....its just so damn frustrating!!!
 
I've done an engine swap in mine and I had the belt 1 tooth off and was doing exactly what yours is. Idk if you have any manuals, but even a Chilton will work, just pay very very close attention to the marks on your gears. When you think you have it rotate the crank by hand 2 or 4 revolutions (can't remember off the top of my head) and MAKE SURE THEY LINE UP WHERE THEYRE SUPPOSED TO. If they don't, pop the belt off and try again. Just have patience and you'll get it no problem. Better to take your time and be certain it's right
 
Sometimes things fail and they have nothing to do with the maintenance you are otherwise trying to accomplish. It sounds like your heater core failed during the test drive. Additionally, it sounds like your timing may be incorrect. When I installed new fuel injectors on my 4R, I couldn't get it timed correctly. It turned out that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) failed just as I was trying to check the timing after installing the fuel injectors. It was completely unrelated to the fuel injectors, so it confused me for a bit. Once I figured it out, I replaced it and was able to get it timed correctly. When the timing was off, it had no power, it was reeeeeeally weak - very similar to the power loss you were describing.

Sooo, it sounds like you have 2 completely unrelated problems, assuming all the vacuum hoses are correctly attached. Figure out the fluid inside the cabin first, then check the timing. If you can't seem to get the timing right, check the TPS to see if it quit.

It doesn't sound like you ran it too long on the test ride. If you did, you might also want to do a compression check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket.

Good luck,
Mike
 
You can get a modestly priced cooling system pressure tester from Harbor Freight and pump some pressure in and see where things are leaking out.
I had the same symptoms for the rest of your running problem except the exhaust manifold and it was clogged injectors. Was it running hot on the gauge?
 
thanks for all the advice guys. I havent touched it since I posted and did the work. Luckily, my mother in law, who lives like a block away, has been letting us use her van when we really need it. I plan on HOPEFULLY taking my truck apart a bit sometime next week, as soon as I have the time, and checking the timing and whatever else I can. I seriously appreciate the help on this.
 
Sometimes things fail and they have nothing to do with the maintenance you are otherwise trying to accomplish. It sounds like your heater core failed during the test drive. Additionally, it sounds like your timing may be incorrect. When I installed new fuel injectors on my 4R, I couldn't get it timed correctly. It turned out that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) failed just as I was trying to check the timing after installing the fuel injectors. It was completely unrelated to the fuel injectors, so it confused me for a bit. Once I figured it out, I replaced it and was able to get it timed correctly. When the timing was off, it had no power, it was reeeeeeally weak - very similar to the power loss you were describing.

I'll have to give this a check once I figure the other things out, but I do appreciate the advice. I would never have thought to even look at this part, lol
 
I've done an engine swap in mine and I had the belt 1 tooth off and was doing exactly what yours is. Idk if you have any manuals, but even a Chilton will work, just pay very very close attention to the marks on your gears. When you think you have it rotate the crank by hand 2 or 4 revolutions (can't remember off the top of my head) and MAKE SURE THEY LINE UP WHERE THEYRE SUPPOSED TO. If they don't, pop the belt off and try again. Just have patience and you'll get it no problem. Better to take your time and be certain it's right

I was wondering about that being a sort of novice at working on bigger things on my truck. I wondered if it being off by even 1 tooth, would it have acted this way. I do have the book for my truck and I follow it to the "T" so I'm happy for that, lol. I need to get a vice to compress the hydraulic tensioner since I'll probably have to take it off assuming the timing is bad. My vice isnt big enough.
 
You can get a modestly priced cooling system pressure tester from Harbor Freight and pump some pressure in and see where things are leaking out.
I had the same symptoms for the rest of your running problem except the exhaust manifold and it was clogged injectors. Was it running hot on the gauge?

awesome, if I need it, then thats where I'll go. Any excuse to fo to harbor freight works for me, lol.
 
need help please

I just bought a 94 4runner with the 3.0 V6 and it has problems accelerating and rough idle. I've changed plugs and wires. Don't wanna spend money on anything I don't need to. Can someone please help me?
 
Mr. Caveman...I'd start with more information. Then I'd change the fuel filter. One of the drawbacks on these vehicles is that it's not so easy to unhook the fuel injector wires one at a time like you can for the spark plugs. If you pull one plug wire at a time, you can probably determine if there is no change and zero in on fouled injectors. I did that and identified 3 questionable cylinders that had spark and good compression but didn't change anything when I pulled the plug wires. See my post from this past January with 3 clogged injector photos. I'd also check for cracked hoses that are giving you a vacuum leak.
 
thanks

Thanks ahlem. I pulled the wires and found three wires that didn't change anything. 1,3, and 4 were firing but no change. Gonna take to a mechanic to get checked out and changed if need to. I don't have the patience or time to deal with all the hoses. Thanks again.
 
its fixed!

A big THANKS to all the responses! Sorry I havent hit this post back in a while, but I JUST fixed it, lol. about 3 days ago, my son in law and I jumped back under the hood and re-did the timing belt. it was a bit more difficult because we couldnt figure out why the rotations werent lining up with the lines, but we figured it out. Getting that tenstioner off and on a few times was a small problem too, but we did it. The exhaust manifold is fine, the truck is picking right back to speed and all seems well. The heater core, however, is still an issue BUT I didnt know it could be bypassed until just yesterday. after doing a small amount of research, (Youtube), it seemed simple enough so I went ahead and did it. Again, it all seems fine. if anyone has anymore info or advice, especially about a bypassed heater core, I would appreciate it. For now, Im pretty happy to have my truck back! Thanks again!!:pimp:
 

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