Need to loosen guide on new OeM rack?

silver4est

New member
Just installed a new Toyoda rack and inner/outer tie rods, got alignment done. Steering feels much tighter, less slop and no noise. But I am noticing that the wheel does not return all the way to center, I need to help it back the last couple degrees. Do I need to loosen the rack guide a bit? Do they ever require adjusting when brand new?
 
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Lift the front end off the ground and check the steering (engine off). There shouldn't be any tight spots. Rack pre-load should be perfectly set from the factory.

Do you have your alignment specs that you can post?

-Charlie
 
LEFT RIGHT
-0.1 camber -0.5
0.14. Toe. 0.13


FRONT
Cross camber 0.4
Total toe. 0.26


There is a small amount of dead play in the wheel, maybe an inch side to side. Steering is responsive and smooth. The wheel returns to the edge of the play area very close to center. Truck does not wander, but still requires feedback corrections to keep going straight, I tend to over correct 2-3 times before driving straight again.

Perhaps it’s just characteristic of the 4runners?
 
There is a small amount of dead play in the wheel, maybe an inch side to side.

Where is this dead play coming from? New rack, new tie rod ends. You shouldn't have an inch of dead play. I'd try to find the sloppy bit.

I don't think it is a 4runner characteristic, it should be pretty solid.
 
LEFT RIGHT
-0.1 camber -0.5
0.14. Toe. 0.13


FRONT
Cross camber 0.4
Total toe. 0.26


There is a small amount of dead play in the wheel, maybe an inch side to side. Steering is responsive and smooth. The wheel returns to the edge of the play area very close to center. Truck does not wander, but still requires feedback corrections to keep going straight, I tend to over correct 2-3 times before driving straight again.

Perhaps it’s just characteristic of the 4runners?

You should have 0 dead play. When I had replace the rack on mine, it was as smooth as butter and responds very well. However, mine does require feedback corrections as well. You'll hit a bump on the right side at hwy speeds, truck wants to now go right, you correct left. That's been my experience too. Same with hard braking on bumpy roads, that's probably the worst I'll see.
 
You should have 0 dead play. When I had replace the rack on mine, it was as smooth as butter and responds very well. However, mine does require feedback corrections as well. You'll hit a bump on the right side at hwy speeds, truck wants to now go right, you correct left. That's been my experience too. Same with hard braking on bumpy roads, that's probably the worst I'll see.

thats a good way to explain it. Also when going slow, say over a football size rock, the wheel will turn on its own very easily, I hate this. Not sure if that is normal but drives me nuts.
Noticed today, highway hard breaking that the wheel can pull slightly one way or the other if road is uneven.

steering response is good and smooth, I can turn the wheel a very little bit each way before the car turns.

I replaced the rack because it was leaking inside the boot and there was play inside also which caused a knock over bumps, Found the pass inner tie rod to be loose also.
 
if I'm driving down a bumpy dirt road and loosely hold on the the wheel, it will turn back and forth on its own

Everything you are describing points to caster. That's why [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] asked about it. Having to little caster will cause the wheel to not return to center and will also cause the truck to veer under hard braking. I've never seen any alignment shop not at least try to get caster in spec. Not having a caster reading at all is a joke. Go get a refund and take it somewhere else.
 
thanks, headed back to Belle Tire, they did alignment. it came with warranty. how do you adjust the caster? incase they try to tell me some shit like oh your truck doesn't have that option, I can be ready for it
 
thanks, headed back to Belle Tire, they did alignment. it came with warranty. how do you adjust the caster? incase they try to tell me some shit like oh your truck doesn't have that option, I can be ready for it
Same way the camber is adjusted, by the lower arm eccentrics.

Moving the front and rear cams in opposite directions moves the lower ball joint forward and back. Moving them the same direction moves the lower ball joint in and out.

As you can see on this printout (my last alignment after a small lift and steering rack install), all specs changed from before (my rough eye alignment) and after:

VrjqVdwh.jpg


-Charlie
 
Everything you are describing points to caster. That's why [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] asked about it. Having to little caster will cause the wheel to not return to center and will also cause the truck to veer under hard braking. I've never seen any alignment shop not at least try to get caster in spec. Not having a caster reading at all is a joke. Go get a refund and take it somewhere else.

Huh, my local dealership has done mine both times and the caster is within specs. Maybe it's a side effect of having a brand new steering rack?
 

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