NegusM's 2002 4runner SR5 sort of build thread.

[negusm]

This is more of a recap for my own amusement...but if it helps anyone...great. 95% of this is covered by Tim and his awesome videos and a few other posts.

My 4runner was getting long in the tooth. I had to make a decision. Dump some money into my 2002 4Runner...or trade it in. Preferably for a slightly used Tacoma.

Sticker shock on Tacomas, new or otherwise, made me analyze and then realize that I may as well just stick with the old girl.

Here's what I got:
2002 4Runner SR5 4x4.
No other options. Just the 4x4 package. The only option that matters.
Every-day ho-hum monotone gold paint.
Bought new. I'm the only owner.
She's been 17 years of rock solid reliability.
250K miles. About 15k per year.
Bone stock. Not a fan of mods.
NO RUST. 100% North Carolina car. At most we have a slight patina under the car.
No "real" accidents. She's had her front and rear bumpers and rear lift gate replaced...but miraculously NO body damage. How do you hit me in the rear lift gate and not eff up my quarters? That kid had a bit of talent.

I didn't much care for it at first (the car was bought initially for the ex...but she soon needed a minivan so I got the 4Runner). Like my favorite ass-groove in my recliner...I've grown into her. Reliable and tough as nails. How can you NOT love a 3rd Gen?

Plans required going front to back and really seeing what's worn and replacing things accordingly.

 

[negusm]

First the Suspension.

She was bouncing around a bit more than it should...so decided new struts/shocks. There was a lot of grease on the outside of the UBJs so we'll do those...and may as well do the LBJs too.

Front Struts. Ordered from Toyota.
Rear Shocks. Ordered from Toyota.
LBJs and UBJs. Ordered from Toyota.
Stabilizer link bushings looked questionable. Ordered from Toyota.
4 Tires. Friend wouldn't ride with me anymore. Said the tires were ready for the race track, whatever that meant. Got Destination AT/2 tires from Firestone.
Alignment. Bought a Firestone lifetime alignment around 2005. Suckers.

The fun part is rationalizing the purchase of tools because you're gonna save sooo much money. Bought a good Torque Wrench, Front end service tool set, and master ball joint tool set. (I blame Tim's videos).

The only big issue I had were the blasted back shocks. What saved me was that the uppers were metal and I had a tip to use a chain wrench on them.

Didn't realize that Toyota would sell you rear shocks with no bushings...blech. Had to wait for those to finish that job. I had to halt the job again since one of the metal spacers was rusted and I had to order from Toyota. Got into the fronts and took the knuckles off and the seals for the wheel bearings were shot...so needed to stop and get more parts from Toyota. Struts came off and the upper supports have an integrated bushing and it had come off...so stop and wait for more parts from Toyota. (I don't like this pattern).

Good news was I couldn't see any wear on the front bearings. Front sway bar and bushings looked good. All boots looked good. No play in the CV axles, etc.

I mean, really? 250k miles...17 years...and this is all I found in the suspension? The car sits the same as she always has so I didn't bother with new springs.

Toyota Parts (prices are total not each):

Shock Absorber 48531-80692 x2 $86.10
Upper Ball Joint 43310-39016 x2 $81.66
Shock Absorber 48510-39585 x2 $345.30
Stabilizer Link Cushion 90948-01003 x4 $7.44
Knuckle Seal 90316-69001 x2 $79.60
Lower Ball Joint 43330-39585 x1 $104.12
Lower Ball Joint 43340-39465 x1 $104.12
Upper Support 48609-35030 x2 $129.48

Add some shipping and it's about ~$1k.

Got all that installed and wow. She drives like she did off the lot in 2002. Front end is tight. No skittering over bumps. No wave motion.

Factory. Perfect. Effing. Ride.

Sorry, no pics...unless you want boring bone stock pictures of orange banded shocks/struts.

 

[negusm]

Tools:
$70 - eTORK Click-Style Torque Wrench
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BYG66BT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$300 - OTC Tools 6530 Service Kit -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O1C396/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$45 - OTC 6733 Asian Vehicle Ball Joint Adapter Update Kit -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RIYPSS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$110 - OTC 6295 Front End Service Set for Pitman Arms, Ball Joints, and Tie Rods -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Already had spring compressors/air impact wrench/ratchets/etc.

Total = $525. Didn't really need the huge service kit...but I have other cars. Also...the huge service kit would have done everything without the 6733 update. The update is perfectly made for our rigs tho.

Rational is always that if I had this suspension job done at the dealer...I'd have paid the same scratch. That and Tim's make-it-look-easy vids when you have the right tools.

Now front ends aren't near as scary as they were before.

 

[negusm]

Next...Exterior Engine Overhaul. The horror...

So here is where the fun really gets going.

I was getting IAC and TPS codes being thrown here and there. I would reset them and they would come back randomly. I would also get an evap code thrown into the mix every so often. Car was also 25k overdue for a timing belt. I was losing oil 1/2 quart a month. The valve covers had been leaking for probably 75k miles. Vacuum hoses were cracking. Some were so rock hard I thought they might be covers for metal tubes. Air tubes were brittle and cracked. Advance Auto radiator was leaking. Radiator cap was leaking too!

A normal person would just trade this off to some poor schmuck. But I pride myself on being the bigger schmuck.

I bought a Timing Belt kit on Amazon. They have kits with the water pump and valve cover gaskets and a bunch of everything. Bearings, waterpump are OEM supplier stuff, etc. The only things not oem were the valve cover gaskets and seals. IMHO Toyota's weren't so great to start with so...meh, I just used what came in the kit. They all fit like a glove.

Made a list of all the hoses I would need and ordered them from Toyota. partsouq.com is the best for diagrams and parts. Using my VIN is a MUST as they don't have exactly my build to choose from. When using my VIN, everything comes out perfectly. I also used toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com. They just discounted the most.

The kicker to the whole thing is the Throttle Body. Good or Bad, from about 8/2000 to the end of the 3rd gens...Toyota used an integrated Throttle body that included TPS and IAC.

IT'S NOT SERVICEABLE!

MSRP for one is like $1100!

A Toyota parts discounter will get it for you for under $650. I paid $627.40 from McGeorge Toyota.

I haven't seen anyone show how to rebuild them...so maybe I will try on my old one. For now...I assumed the position and bought a new one.

I added the Oil Cooler gasket into the project as I saw a thread about it.

Parts ordered:

Splash Shield Clip 90467-10186 8 $12.32 (these always break)
Oil Cooler O-Ring 90301-67004 1 $3.84
Relief Valve O-Ring 90210-22001 1 $3.88
Upper Radiator Hose 16571-62070 1 $18.58
Lower Radiator Hose 16572-62090 1 $18.51
By-Pass Hose 16261-62070 1 $13.97
Hose Water By-Pass 16264-62040 1 $6.52
PCV Valve 12204-62010 1 $9.04
Grommet 90480-18001 1 $4.28
Throttle Body 22030-62020 1 $627.40
Hose 15778-62030 1 $26.20
Hose 15777-62020 1 $10.74
Hose Air No.2 17342-62080 1 $9.16
Hose Air No.1 17341-62100 1 $15.13
Hose Air No.3 17343-62080 1 $9.16
Plenum Gasket 17176-62040 2 $18.36
Hose Ventilation N 12261-62041 1 $9.67
Hose Ventilation N 12262-62060 1 $24.03
Air Hose 17881-62150 1 $54.59
Air Hose 17882-62020 1 $34.72
Tensioner 13540-62021 1 $33.90
Throttle Body Gasket 22271-62050 1 $9.94
RKX Gas cap replacement seal 1 $7.95 (Amazon)
Motorad T-37 Radiator Cap 1 $8.82 (Amazon)
Motorad 281-180 Thermostat 1 $10.18 (Amazon)
Timing Belt kit Evergreen TBK271MVCA2 1 $159.95 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK8ZQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radiator. Advance Auto Lifetime Guarantee. FREE! Suckers.

Add in some lengths of generic vacuum hose from NAPA (make them order the right sizes...don't just take their "this'll fit too" BS), a few odds and ends and shipping and total is about $1200.

Tools:
Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller - $13.77
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPYW4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Drake Off Road 4502 Hose Clamp Pliers Set - 2 Piece - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1KJT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder - $57.48
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q8GVPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So about $100 for tools I didn't have.

Almost FREE: Crank holder I made. Works AWESOME. Thanks for the tip, Tim:

 

[negusm]

If anyone is keeping score...

$2200 parts.
$625 Tools.
$0 Labor

Total $2825.

 

[TheShowtime]

Nice build thread, would be nice to see some pics of her even if she’s stock. Just wondering but what state has your 4Runner been in its entire life?

 

[Boudin]

My kind of build, oem restoration [emoji1362] Would also enjoy some pics.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[negusm]

Ahhh yes. Pictures of the Victim...

 

[negusm]

 

[negusm]

Nice build thread, would be nice to see some pics of her even if she’s stock. Just wondering but what state has your 4Runner been in its entire life?

Charlotte, North Carolina. On the border with SC.

 

[negusm]

Look at this FILTH. FILTH EVERYWHERE. This is what 250k miles and 17 years of neglect looks like:

AREN'T SOME OF THESE THINGS SUPPOSED TO BE BLACK!?!?

Just LOOK at that valve cover below! LOOK! LOOK AT IT!

More filth.

So much filth. Lots of cleaning ahead.

 

[spartacus]

Great build thread.The part numbers and prices plus the tools in your build thread help tremendously. Good looking truck.

 

[negusm]

Simple Green is awesome <insert ad here>. I love that stuff. Went through literally a gallon and a couple of tooth brushes and 5 rolls of paper towels. I scrubbed EVERYTHING. Took a few evenings of cleaning just to get to where I felt I could start taking parts off. Did you know the underside of the hood has STICKERS with actual writing on them?

Let me say. Once you focus on a small spot and clean it...you then are SCREWED. You now need to make everything just that clean.

 

[negusm]

Disassembly.

Took Air box out. Cleaned it.

The Air intake tubes got tossed in the trash, I bought new ones.

Second air box came out. Cleaned it.

Started to remove parts off the front of the engine. No big issue. I had done a timing belt before (sorry Tim...I still can't figure out the swivel trick for the tensioner). Every part I pulled I cleaned thoroughly. And cleaned some more.

I pulled the radiator and I know some of you may think..."why for effin sake did you go with an Advance Auto radiator?". Well...at 125k miles the Toyota radiator crapped the bed. Toyota's not offering a lifetime guarantee so all things equal I went with the guarantee. Maybe Advance Auto took a dump in the box...but the guarantee they slapped on it was good and I got a another radiator for zero dollars. For the record, the Toyota one lasted EXACTLY the same length of time as the Advance Auto one.

Pulled the alternator for cleaning.

Pulled all the vacuum bits and pieces on the driver's side of the bay out and cleaned them. They were still in really good shape. I didn't replace them.

I moved on to the top of the engine.

Got the upper plenum off. Cleaned it.

Got the lower plenum off. Cleaned it.

Got the Ignition wires off. Cleaned them.

Got the coil packs off cleaned them.

Cleaned all the bolts.

Cleaned washers and brackets.

Got down to the wiring harness. Wiring harness loom breakage. And more breakage. Toyota. Shame on you. And there is no way to buy just the loom! Really?

So I just wrapped the right side loom as best I could with electrical tape to hold what little plastic was still left together. Once everything is bolted back in place, the loom really can't move anywhere. If I ever get back in there I will take off the Toyota plastic and put on the standard corrogated plastic loom you can buy by the foot.

Fuel Rails. Started leaking a little when removing the wiring harness. Removed them. Cleaned them.

Removed Injectors. Cleaned them.

I CAREFULLY cleaned the injector ports in the intake manifold. Used my Dyson super suck to get all the loose stuff out first.

 

[negusm]

Had to get Injector O-Rings from the dealer. You need 13. OEM ONLY! DO NOT USE #6 O-Rings! They ain't thick enough! I checked on getting a new set of injectors...yeah...ouch...expensive. And can we beat to death the guys selling the 6 pack of "Toyota" fakes for $55 on ebay? And the morons that give 5 star reviews of them on Amazon?

FYI: The o-ring and dust guard kit NAPA has for the injectors does not have the right O-Rings...I still need to return all 6 of those kits. My dust/vibration injector jackets were still nice and pliable on my injectors so I just ordered O-Rings from Toyota.

Finally...got down to the valve covers. Removed them. Took my punishment like a man and cleaned them. Ugh.

Removed their seals and disassembly was essentially finished. Praise Jesus.

Parts:
9030107024 Injector O-Rings. 2 per injector and 1 for the fuel pressure regulator. 13 total - $33.02
9043012026 Crush Washers for the Fuel Rail Union Bolts. 6 for the whole setup. (4 if you unbolt the front line off one side only) - $8.58

 

[negusm]

Reassembly.

Now I had a whole bunch of new and cleaned parts to go back on the car. I had pretty much figured I would mess up something. I'm super careful but boy...this is a whole lot of stuff off all at once. The whole front and top of the engine including AC bracket and Alternator was off.

I replaced all seals, hoses...water pump, t-stat...yada yada yada. See parts list above. Took a few weekends to get the time to get everything back together. It's just so much stuff.

I was sure I would forget a wire/connection something. But this is where I gain some respect for Toyota's engineers. You simply can't hook things up wrong or in the wrong spot or route things wrong. If you work with all factory parts...it's genuinely idiot proof.

After everything was back on. I had no spare parts. However, I was missing a nut to the #2 timing cover and a bolt to the fan shroud. I wonder where those went...and how does that happen? I don't remember dropping either. It's gonna bug me a long time.

Regardless. She fired right up. I was amazed. No check engine lights for 2 days now.

Pictures! Engine Bay looks sooooo gooood. No painting done...all just from new parts and cleaning. <insert ad for Simple Green here>

So nice to look at now!

 

[negusm]

Compare before and after:

 

[Boudin]

Wow, amazing job on the cleaning! I just did an advanced auto radiator too, and oem radiator hoses, thermostat and cap. That sticker on the upper radiator hose is a chore to get off completely!



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[negusm]

Wow, amazing job on the cleaning! I just did an advanced auto radiator too, and oem radiator hoses, thermostat and cap. That sticker on the upper radiator hose is a chore to get off completely!



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That sticker is the easiest of all. You leave it on. Drive for 30 minutes. And she peels right off .

 

[negusm]

So, was the new $625 Throttle Body worth it? Holy heck, YES. It fixed SO MANY issues.

No more throttle hesitation/delay. I had no idea how much I had gotten used to driving with a throttle hesitation.

No more engine pinging. I didn't even consider this might be due to the throttle body.

No more surging when AC kicks on.

Transmission shifts more predictably.

Perfect, smooth acceleration.

MPG must be up. Like a good bit. I don't remember going as long on a tank before. I think I was hitting 15 MPG highway last time I checked it.

The TPS unit in the Throttle Body MUST have been well on the way out. I don't think a cleaning would have fixed it. A cleaning probably would have fixed the IAC codes. But I highly doubt the hesitation and acceleration would have been affected.

Driveability is pretty much exactly back to what I remembered.

This is only for, I think 4Runners built after 8/2000...so mostly 2001/2002 cars. What is nice though is that there is literally nothing to adjust. Bolt it in and let the computer learn what's what. Maybe older 4Runners are the same...dunno.